Fine scramble that never pushed over a hiker's Class 3. Route as described, the only trick was the (very steep) Class 3 coming off the bench which turned out to be only slightly more difficult than climbing a ladder. There is also a ducked route about 100 yards east which is more interesting and a bit harder.
We went up to the base of the wall below Lost Arrow Spire.
I learned to climb in the Valley, and excluding El Cap and other Big Wall routes listed elsewhere have enjoyed After Six, Arches Terrace, The Arrow Direct, Bear Rock SE Face, Bishops Balcony, Bishops Terrace, The Caverns ( 3 times ), Church Bowl Tree, Commitment, The Cow ( all of em 2 - 3 times each ), Delectable Pinnacle center and right, El Cap Tree, Flatus, Harding Route on the Apron, The Goblet, Goodrich Pinnacle right side, The Grack center and left, Kat Pinnacle, Koko Ledge, Koko Continuation, La Escuela, Little John center, Lost Arrow Tip, Lower Cathedral Rock - Overhang Bypass, Maxines Wall, Middle Cathedral Rock East Buttress, Middle Cath. Rock - Kor Beck ( part way ), Moby Dick Center, Monday Morning Slab ( Right, Far Right, Harry Daley ), Munginella ( 10 times at last count ), Negative Pinnacle, The Nutcracker ( twice ), Penny Nickel Arete, Point Beyond, Rixons Pinnacle Direct South Face ( partial ascent ), Rixons pinnacle West face, the Rorp, Royal Arches ( twice ), Selaginella Wall ( twice ), Sentinel Rock - Gogi Wall attempt ( 2/3rd's ), Sunnyside Bench Jamcrack, The Surprise, Swan Slab, Tiny Tim, Uncle fanny, Aunt Fannys Pantry, Wash. Column Lunch Ledge ( for lunch !) and Dinner Ledge, Old A3, Old A5 and Pink Pussycat!
I normally avoid the Valley because of the crowds and the probability of being hassled for rogue camping overnight, but it's a nice place in spring. Scrambled/climbed here a few times--to Sierra Point, up Tenaya Canyon to Tenaya Lake, up the Slabs route to the Diving Board and back down LeConte Gully, up KP Pinnacle, led Sunnyside Bench (Regular Route) as my first multi-pitch lead, led Aunt Fanny's Pantry (another beginner climb) the next day, and top roped/followed some routes at Swan Slab a couple of times.
Climbed munginella summer 2003 with my wife. We had great views of half dome and watched storm clouds roll in and around it.
Climbed these two fun routes with my brother Steve on a perfect sunny November day - great views of snow-covered Half Dome and partially frozen Yosemite Falls. It was strange to be rock climbing the day after a snow & freezing rain storm in the valley!
Great climbs. Royal Arches is a fun route, even though a lot of it is class 3 - 4. We rappeled down with two 60m ropes. It seems to me based on the amount of rappel bolts that they were set up for a single rope, but I wouldn't guarantee that. Even with two ropes it took a long time. The whole climb took us probably 11 hrs car-to-car.
The next day we did Nutckracker. Much shorter and more exciting, definately more difficult. At the end of pitch 3 we met a girl name Erica who was free soloing. No respect for male egos..... :)
Did some random toprope climbing throughout the area.
Love the valley.
Climbed it on a warm June Saturday. There was several teams ahead of us as we got there late (sp'ers among others). Still a fun route.
Hope to do many more in this special place. So far, have done (among others): Munginella (great climb with solid rock, funky trees, & good pro), Grack Left (mediocre- did 1st pitch unroped, 2nd pitch was a few 5.7 moves over slick rock, 3rd pitch was 4th class) & Centre, Harry Daly, Nutcracker, Royal Arches, After 6 & 7, Uncle Fanny, Church Bowl Chimney, Suds, Pine Line, ...
All very fun, obscure and adventurous approaches. Enjoyable climbs with close friends.
Dog Dik Cliff (Pink Pussy Cat, A1), Staircase Falls (Old A3 & The Guido Variation), Kat Pinncle (Southwest Corner, 5.7 A2+), El Cap (La Escuela, C2), Ribbon Falls Area (Laughing At The Void, 5.8 A3+) Date Climbed: April-May 2004
April 24 2006 - 'Stigma' C2+/C3+F (Coookie Cliff)
I went to climb this route with my friend Ben. We expected nasty weather amd a lot of rain. It wasn't that bad, even though we had some showers and the rock was wet. Ben led the first pitch, the crux of the route. It was a fun climb. At one point the wind really picked up and we couldn't hear each other at all. Half way up the last pitch I bailed out. The rock was pretty slick and we had only about 10 minutes of daylight left. In bad weather and with only one headlamp it had a potential to become another epic. I downclimbed and then we rappeled to the descend gully.
My first lead climb and first multipitch route. Enjoyed it a lot!
- Munginella (5.6, 3p) on April 25th with Etsuko. Led pitches #1 and #3.
- Several routes on Knob Hill on May 8th with Martin and Randy. Led Anti Ego Crack (5.7) and followed Just for Starters (5.10a)
- After Six (5.7, 6p) on May 9th with Martin and Matt.
Etsuko and I climbed a hybrid multi-pitch climb on Swan Slab. We started it with climbing Hanging Flake (5.6, awkward for the rating) to the first belay station. After that we continued for two more pitches to the top of the slab (aka Swan Slab Gully). Second pitch was an easy 5th class, third pitch was a 5.5-5.6 R (last 30' with no pro). Not sure if we took the correct route on p3, but it was fun! Great easy Yosemite multi-pitch for a beginner leader!
My first multi-pitch trad lead: Sunnyside Bench, Regular Route. We climbed the route in 4 pitches (it could be done in 3 if you can avoid the rope drag), and via the 5.5 "corner variation" (instead of 5.4 jugs). Etsuko led the first pitch, and I led all others. Fun!
We also TR'd several 5.9 and 5.10 routes on Swan Slab (i.e. Grant's Crack)
This was about the most messed thing all weekend! John scared any living animal in the valley including himself leading this first slabby pitch. I took over the last pitch on Harry Daley and enjoyed it immensely.
Another Bridwell classic. The first pitch hand jams are near perfect (except for the rock swallows flying into your face!!). One can take the original 2nd pitch right facing corner (5.7) or move out onto the open slab (5.9R). The 3rd pitch is not only the crux pitch but also the best part of the route....a traverse from the belay to the right (under a small roof) to semi-pumpy lieback right facing corner, then up to a big flake (fun to squeeze through!!). The exit is a little loose....use caution.
Amazing one pitch Jim Bridwell classic! Finger locks to hands to fist to offwidth to chimney!!! And to make things more interesting....its nicely polished! Had one #5 Camelot for the chimney (.10a). 4 stars!!
Partner: Steve Reynolds.
Fun in every way.