Your probably wondering why...
Your probably wondering why the hell is this guy posting a picture of a butterfly knot? This knot along with the competency of my team saved me from serious injury and/or death. I summited Rainier for the second time on May 26, 2003 and on my descent took a fall. You can read about it in my trip report titled "Wake Up Call on the Ingraham Glacier Direct!" Just for the record, I had to work the knot for about 10 minutes before it would come apart. (Also, I don't expect this photo to be voted on. I am more concerned about letting people know that %&*# happens...just be prepared for it...Be safe out there. Respect the mountain...know your strengths and your weaknesses!)