Your's truly attempting to...

Your's truly attempting to lead the striking finger crack, Angel Crack (5.10D). I am placing a #1 friend here, and there is a Zero Z6 clipped at my waist. I fell shortly after this picture was taken, only 5 feet from the top of the hard section.


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Diggler - Jun 8, 2004 7:53 pm - Voted 10/10


Did you do finger stacks for this, or ring locks, or just put what you could in & squeeze?? How close to vertical was the climb? Seems like it would be next to impossible while smearing one's feet if it were really steep. Great shot, BTW!


Klenke - Jun 8, 2004 9:36 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: technique

I'll let Martin answer the technical stuff but I will mention that the great shot was taken by one of two cuties who were milling about up there. I was busy belaying (where the rope goes to the right). The girls left early thereafter.

Interesting event: I was anchored to a coffee table-sized rock. Martin was tugging on me so much while belaying him that he/we pulled the rock over, which freed the anchor from it, and I wound up running to him (to the wall). In this case the terrain around the anchor was not exposed. I can't imagine such a thing happening on a hairy ledge.

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Jun 9, 2004 11:45 am - Hasn't voted

Re: technique

Yep, I believe the anchor pulled out when I fell about 1 second after this photo.

Yeah, I would never try to lead a pitch like that off a small ledge. Fun to practice in controlled conditions though!

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Jun 9, 2004 12:04 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: technique

No stacking or ring locks. The pitch is slightly less than vertical, about 80 to 85 degrees.

The thin section below my feet is about 1/2" and only takes tips jambs. It gradually widens to 1" to get good finger jambs. Twisting and squezzing is what I used to hold the jambs.

Thanks for the vote.

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