Climbed it with Chris B. while the route was being cleaned of all fixed gear (above the Mark of Zorro pitch still had some fixed pieces). Sent the whole wall clean - P1 and Black Tower definitely spicy without the use of pins. Offset Aliens and offset HB brass nuts were the key. Great route... couldn't ask for better hauling conditions.
My first route up the Captain, which was an ambitious (foolish?) choice since the route was probably still A3+/A4- back then. The Chicken Bolt and Loose Block pitches still had obvious meaning back then.
I was 19 and talked my 17 year old buddy into doing it after borrowing a friend's homemade porta-ledge. Half way up the climb my partner admits that our friends were betting him camming devices that we'd bail. I was furious he didn't tell me earlier so I could get in on the bet. Even after later doing the Shield and the PO Wall, nothing has come close to feeling as hard or technical as this did.
highcamp - Nov 27, 2008 12:56 am
My first route up El CapClimbed it with Chris B. while the route was being cleaned of all fixed gear (above the Mark of Zorro pitch still had some fixed pieces). Sent the whole wall clean - P1 and Black Tower definitely spicy without the use of pins. Offset Aliens and offset HB brass nuts were the key. Great route... couldn't ask for better hauling conditions.
fatdad - Aug 26, 2008 5:18 pm
Popped by Big Stone cherry: June 1983My first route up the Captain, which was an ambitious (foolish?) choice since the route was probably still A3+/A4- back then. The Chicken Bolt and Loose Block pitches still had obvious meaning back then.
I was 19 and talked my 17 year old buddy into doing it after borrowing a friend's homemade porta-ledge. Half way up the climb my partner admits that our friends were betting him camming devices that we'd bail. I was furious he didn't tell me earlier so I could get in on the bet. Even after later doing the Shield and the PO Wall, nothing has come close to feeling as hard or technical as this did.