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33 routes EMILIUS's The MODERN MAGIC ERA Eight Part
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33 routes EMILIUS's The MODERN MAGIC ERA Eight Part

 
33 routes EMILIUS\'s The MODERN MAGIC ERA Eight Part

Page Type: Route

Location: Emilius Area Aosta's Valley, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 45.67806°N / 7.38730°E

Object Title: 33 routes EMILIUS's The MODERN MAGIC ERA Eight Part

Route Type: Sport Climbing

Season: Summer

Difficulty: From II° to VI° +

Grade: V

Route Quality: 
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Page By: OsvaldoCardellina

Created/Edited: Jul 26, 2013 / Jan 30, 2015

Object ID: 858258

Hits: 2659 

Page Score: 80.49%  - 12 Votes 

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MAGIC Overview

All pictures in color or B&W of this page are by Antonio GIANI

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So, like we said, closing the "Part Seven"

in "prestigious OTHER"


we got to the modern times, that to this day including the last two decades. That are magic because it is HIS MAGESTY Th'EMILIUS which is that since it is able to renew itself despite the venerable age of 190 years, which are the ones that have passed since the first Ascension in the Summer of 1823 to the present. In fact, it is still able to offer new ideas that generate NEW EMOTIONS. We are going to enjoy these...
We left the first winter on the East Wall and the "Phantom Couloir" which, as its name implies, is really a ghost. In fact, in the absence of ice, the same is not feasible. Indeed there own. We had a quick look on this line going up to a Direct, but the danger for falling stones, screened in two ascents of 1980 and 1984 there had dissuaded by the idea. Not so much for the difficulties, as well as for the danger of the track. Mountaineering is not part of this. And even then the media would have allowed this climb in the presence of snow or ice. For posterity!




Th'ARROW

Così, come abbiamo detto chiudendo la "Seven Part"

in "prestigious OTHER"


siamo arrivati ai Tempi Moderni, ovvero ai nostri giorni comprensivi l'ultimo ventennio. Che son magici perché é SUA MAESTA' L'EMILIUS che é tale, poiché é capace di rinnovarsi nonostante la Veneranda Età di 190 Anni; che son quelli trascorsi dalla prima Ascensione nell'Estate del 1823 ad oggi. Difatti é ancor capace di offrire nuovi spunti che generano NUOVE EMOZIONI. Andremo a gustarcele... Eravam rimasti alla prima invernale sulla Parete Est ed al "Couloir Fantasma" che, come dice la parola, é proprio un fantasma. In effetti, in assenza di ghiaccio, lo stesso non è percorribile. Anzi non esiste proprio. Avevam gettato uno sguardo su questa linea di salita per effettuare una Diretta, ma la pericolosità per le scariche di sassi, vagliata nelle due salite del 1980 e 1984, ci avevano dissuaso dall'idea. Non tanto per le difficoltà, quanto per la pericolosità del tracciato. Non fa parte di quest'Alpinismo. E neppure i mezzi di allora avrebbero consentito questa salita in presenza di neve o ghiaccio. Ai posteri!

The trait-d'Union

And so it happened. The new materials break down the difficulty. Indeed the highlight. Let's take an example: the Wall Northwest of Gran Paradiso or the Northeast of Grivola with old ice axes with a beak of 30 cm. that, in the case of "verglass", forced to grueling work of cutting into the ice and cutting steps in the ice live, with old crampons soil mixed with two front points facing down in order to be exploited also on the rock, with the tubular ice nails seeds of which has not previously understood the real support in terms of safety, all of these external factors, then regardless of the skills its alpinist, is that these were made ​​for a few climbs. And a few brave and courageous. That la crème. This modern equipment has made all this trivial. And where once passed in two passes today in 2000. Why are better? No sir, because it changed the rules of the game. Try to make the World Record with a bamboo pole! ...
But this is the modern mountaineering. Same shall apply to the myths of the North Walls of Matterhorn, Eiger and Walker. Today they are all "very very good." What are the Pylon of the Freney or West Noire, Via Ratti/Vitale. A "crap". It 's almost more difficult to approach or slide on ice at the base of the wall. We have known people who have struggled more on these than in the same along the way. But then the phenomena were the same as before? Could be. Why was unethical and should not have been cheating, The barrel gave the wine he had. I think this also happens in the Himalayas. Coming from someone that may be worth, at most, the Emilius ...
But the two men who were with us in 1984, and came from the Red Pillar of Brouillard, from the Route of the Swiss at the Grand Capucin (for us poor mythological Sunday) from ... from ... Never came up and were traveling with 2 hours late, over when I called them warning them of falling rocks on the way, before reacting running away on the edges of the channel and then, overcome by fatigue, suited to Sorte curled up under the small helmet with small machine guns of World War around them without ever hit: the dihedral IV + asked me (for my wickedness): "I recommend it retrieves the nail, because we no longer", responded: but how did you go from here. "from laugh, because four years before it was all verglass phenomena," and the split as I had done better and the stop of William Gabetto! (player of the Great Turin Football of Superga's tragedy. Editor's note). "And the nail?". "I was not able to pull it out ... how did you put it? ". Bastards, because in 1980 there was not even able by The Camillo. It was in like a Kriss Malay and has remained so. And still there today. Go take it off, I say Bravo!
That day, in day from Pila , as in 1980, even as always, we went to the North Wall on "request". Yes, because at that precise day was scheduled for the positioning of Federigo Zullo Bivouac at Carrel Hill. I had asked the Mountain Guide "Dolomitista" Enrico Mauro, one of the attempts to Nose Zmutt with Mirko Minuzzo, Valtournanche's Mountain Guide. Another "consortium" of Friends Fénis and Saint Marcel would rise along the North-northeast Edge also "Three Curates Crest". All with the filming of R.A.I. to perpetuate the event. Moral of the helicopter with the Troupe, due to strong winds, never arrived, and Battistèn & Ughetto (two of my athletes preparing for racing Luge) pulled me down the stones from the edge (they say that the cause was the wind) and the next day, the Mayor of Charvensod Eusèbe Imperial, spectator at the Carrel Hill of the whole climb, I rebuke: "Madonna, that pendulums were doing!", I, poor fellow, instead I ran with zig-zag at breakneck speed to dodge the stones...
Moral: I will never again in my life an uphill request!




EMILIUS's NORTHERN FACES

E così avvenne. I nuovi materiali abbattono le difficoltà. Anzi le esaltano. Prendiam un esempio: la Parete Nordovest del Gran Paradiso oppure la Nordest della Grivola con le vecchie piccozze con un becco di 30 cm che, in caso di "verglass", costringevano ad estenuanti lavori di taglio nel ghiaccio e gradinamenti, con i vecchi ramponi da terreno misto con le due punte anteriori rivolte al basso per poter essere sfruttati anche sulla roccia, con i chiodi semi tubolari da ghiaccio dei quali non s'é mai capito il reale supporto in fatto di sicurezza, tutti questi fattori esterni, a prescindere quindi dalle abilità proprie dell'alpinista, facevan si che queste fossero salite per pochi. Pochi e bravi e coraggiosi. Ovvero la crème. Quest'attrezzatura moderna ha reso banale tutto questo. E dove una volta passavano in due, oggi passano in 2000. Perché son più bravi? Nossignori, perché son cambiate le regole del gioco. Provate a fare il Record del Mondo con un'asta di bambù!...
Ma questo é l'alpinismo moderno. Decadon anche i miti delle Pareti Nord di Cervino, Walker ed Eiger. Oggi son tutti "bravissimi". Che cosa sono il Pilone del Freney o la Ovest della Noire, Via Ratti Vitale. Una "cazzata". E' quasi più difficile l'Approccio o lo scivolo in ghiaccio alla base della parete. Abbiam conosciuto gente che di fatto ha più "ravanato" su questi che non a percorrer la via stessa. Ma allora i fenomeni eran quelli di prima? Può darsi. Perché non era etico e non si doveva barare, La botte dava il vin ch'aveva. Penso che questo succeda anche in Himalaya. Detto da uno che può valere, al massimo, l'Emilius...
Però quei due che nel 1984 ch'eran con noi, e venivan dal Pilastro Rosso del Brouillard, dalla Via degli Svizzeri al Grand Capucin (mitologiche per noi, poveri domenicali) dal... dal... Non venivano mai sù e viaggiavano con 2 ore di ritardo e, quando da sopra li richiamavo avvertendoli delle scariche di sassi in arrivo, prima reagivano correndo al riparo sui bordi del canale poi, vinti dalla stanchezza, si rimettevan alla Sorte raggomitolandosi sotto al caschetto con le mitragliatrici della Prima Guerra Mondiale che li circondavano di colpi senza mai prenderli: al diedro di IV°+ mi chiedevan (per una mia cattiveria): "mi raccomando recupera il chiodo, perché non n'abbiamo più", rispondevano: ma com'hai fatto a passare da qui". Da ridere, perché quattro anni prima era tutto in verglass", e la spaccata l'avevo fatta come e meglio dello stop di Guglielmo Gabetto! (calciatore del Grande Torino di Superga. N.d.R.). "Ed il chiodo?". "Non sono riuscito ad estrarlo ... ma com'hai fatto a metterlo?". Che bastardi, perché nel 1980 non c'era riuscito neppure Il Camillo. Era dentro come un Kriss malese e così é rimasto. E c'é ancor oggi. Andate a toglierlo, che vi dico Bravi!
Quel giorno, in giornata da Pila (1800 m), come nel 1980, anzi come sempre, eravam andati a far la Nord su "richiesta". Si perché in quel giorno preciso era in programma il posizionamento del Bivacco Federigo Zullo al Colle Carrel. Me l'aveva chiesto la Guida "Dolomitista" Enrico Mauro, quello dei tentativi al Naso di Zmutt con Mirko Minuzzo, Guida di Valtournanche. Un'altra cordata degli Amici di Fénis e Saint Marcel sarebbe salita lungo lo Spigolo Nord-nordest. Il tutto con riprese della R.A.I. per eternare l'evento. Morale l'elicottero con la Troupe, causa il forte vento, non arrivò mai, Battistèn & Ughetto (due miei atleti che preparavo per le corse in Slittino) mi tiravano giù le pietre dallo spigolo (loro dicon che la causa foss'il vento) ed, il giorno appresso, il Sindaco di Charvensod Eusèbe Imperial, spettatore al Colle Carrel di tutta la salita, mi rimbrotta: "Madonna, che pendoli facevi!", Io, poveraccio, invece correvo con zig-zag a perdifiato per scansar le pietre...
Morale: non farò mai più nella mia vita una salita a richiesta!


Moving the cursor one can see the overall scene

Modern Routes Description

But ... We were just in a different Age and now we come to more serious things.
But there were also those series, the result of attempts, successes but also failures, if not defeats, errors, intuitions, but above all to overcome many hardships and dangers.
In our view, if the previous climbing could be regarded as a trait d'union, which is a symbolic link or virtual, with those of the late '800, '900, and until the beginning of World War II, including, they assume, in addition to other materials or equipment, side dishes and other aspects in order of philosophical and moral towards the Mountain. The process of change is a result somewhat slower over time, a time that begins with the first ascent in 1823 and reaches, always in our opinion, to 1985. A period of over 150 years! Impossible, you say. Things had already changed before and well. True, you can not be anachronistic. From approaches by mule and breeches are gradually transited to something new. The novelties were fashionable even then, and even the goals changed by natural evolution or because, simply, certain veins were finished. The search for the new, the novelty and the limit has always existed. But it is the way to go, to get closer, not so much in material and spiritual sense that, in practice, remained the same. The Man who married the Mountain, like a Goddess to love and respect. The spirit of Friendship and Brotherhood among all Mountaineers. The total respect of Nature in its most varied forms.
We spoke of these 152 years and this endless bridge between Defey/Cerise and Comé and solo ascent of Alberto Sciardi in June 1985 along the Central Couloir or 1940 Route, after having done the night before the Fires of Peter and Paul on "Becca", en respect to an ancient tradition of the Valley of Aosta. A solo ascent conducted in the traditional way, with materials very similar to those of the Twenties, Thirties and Forties, which are decisive for the exploration of this great wall. Even the descent is in line with the way the past to go: West-northwest along the ridge to join his brother at the crossroads "Becca"/Carrel Hill, the Gros Scez. The only thing different is the starting point, the new Federigo Zullo Bivouac gives comfort compared to other livestock enclosures rough to the Refuge by Baron Beck Peckoz, at the pond, or, worse still, its remains poor, those to be invited to do all day starting from the far Pila.
a)- : "The Golden Age", the period from first ascents to the peaks of the group (Emilius, 1823, Becca di Nona, 1832, Punta Garin, 1856, Becca di Sale, Small, and Roise, 1875, Punta della Valletta, 1877, Punta red Emilius 1891 Tip Leppe 1893 Becca Seneva and Tower of Arpisson1897, Head Blansette Tour Grauson 1906 until 1909) which closes with this latest, unless some other secondary summit or unusually Forgotten Lagoon as the Punta des Laures or Punta Fiorito, the circle of "conquest of the peaks. But some