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Featured Trip Reports
Sun lighting up Kangchenjunga
by Silvia Mazzani
Lying amongst the superb Himalayan peaks of the secluded Indian state of Sikkim, the Goecha Là trail allows to get the Goecha Là - a col 4940 meters high (some sources quote it at 5002 m.) - taking an outstanding view over the mysterious South-East face of Kangchenjunga m. 8585, the third highest peak on earth and the less climbed amongst all the 8000s, situated on the boundary ridge between Sikkim and Nepal.
Kangchenjunga, which name means “Five Treasures of Snow” and also “The Dwelling of the Five Treasures”, in reason of its five summits, was first climbed in 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band, members of a British expedition; since the first ascent, the mountaineers use to stop the climb a few meters below the summit, following the tradition of the first summiters, as Kangchenjunga is considered to be holy. It has been my third himalayan trail, after Baltoro-Concordia-K2 Base Camp in Karakoram and Markha Valley Trek in Ladakh. More
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Ski touring in Ortles
by yxygan
They say, the kept promise is good promise. I think it is true as well when we make promise ourselves.
After my very first ski-tour from one year ago padding in pleasing and sweet memories, very easy came the decision that I would like this next year again! Than slowly elapsed the winter of 2012, there was plenty of skiing, but with all of that something was missing…Of course, the ski-touring! This time everything was more easier than one year ago, after a few calls and emails I succeeded to find and book a similar trip.
This year the winter does hold out, the snow remained until April here in Hungary, so in a very early morning we departed to South-Tirol, in Ortles, to conquer the summit called Cevedale.
We knew it, and as we were approaching the location, we could even see that at higher altitude there was lot of snow, but even so, when we were meandering among budding apple orchards in the Martello valley, we started to worry about that at the terminal, in the parking place could we stand on skis or we would have to walk a lot with skis on our shoulders until we found enough snow to enclose. Fortunately, from 1.500-1.600 m-s altitude, beside the road the snowfields conquered the bare ground, so at 2.000 m, in the parking place in the reddish light of the setting sun we could feel reassured there was much more snow then we expected, so we hadn’t to pad the road at all. More
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Against All Hope: Life, Partnership, and Loss on Mt. Shasta
by PellucidWombat
“All that was sure to me at the time was a nagging uneasiness in the pit of my stomach and a certainty that it is just as poignant and terrible to lose a new friend as to lose an old one.” -Greg Child
I know that people are going to continue to publish reports of the tragedy whether I say something or not. They will second-guess Tom and me whether I say something or not; but it may make a difference to some people that I get the truth out. I feel that until I get a complete public report out, I will have neglected my duties to right the wrongs of the media, and also to put my anger about the aftermath to rest. At this point I have complete piece of mind over what happened and the decisions Tom and I made, so I’m not afraid of what others less involved or informed with these events think. Those that matter have already spoken, and the unanimous opinion is one of support.
For Tom and me climbing wasn't a trivial pursuit or a hobby, and we both have done it as carefully and thoughtfully as we could. We both took pains to educate ourselves, seek out mentorship, and practice the skills necessary to climb safely. We both even loved taking time to show others how to enjoy being out in the mountains safely. In the following account I’m intending to accurately portray what happened as well as the serious and thoughtful spirit in which Tom and I entered the mountains. There are some valuable lessons for other climbers to learn from the tragedy as well – the decisions I made that got me down the mountain alive. Tom's family has given me their blessing in speaking freely about Tom's last days in hopes that such positive messages make a difference for others. More
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Featured Articles
Layton Kor - The Giant
by Liba Kopeckova
Layton Kor was one of America’s greatest and most revered climbers. He came from a small town in Minnesota, born in 1938, and was a bricklayer by trade. He taught himself to climb by chopping steps with pickaxe up a clay embankment in Texas: “I’d seen the climbers in the movie with ice axes and I thought that as the way it was done”, he wrote.
In the mid 50s, Kor’s parents relocated to Boulder, where the area is abundant with rocks. He put up many routes here as a teenager, especially Eldorado Canyon, Boulder Canyon, the Flatirons and Lumpy Ridge.
By the late 1950s and mid 1960s Kor ecomplished many first ascents, including The Naked Edge, Ruper and Yellow Spur in Eldorado, the West Face of El Capitan, the South Face of Washington Column in Yosemite, the Yellow Wall on the Diamond (Longs Peak), the Cruise in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and Proboscis in the Yukon. Layton was also the driving force in opening up the American desert with first ascents of Castleton Tower, the Titan, Monster Tower, and Standing Rock in Utah, and Fast Draw and Bell Tower in Colorado National Monument. The exact number of routes he pioneered is unknown, but it goes into hundreds. More
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"My highest ones" - The "Seven Summits" downgraded
by Wolfgang Schaub
Also hooked on the "Seven Summits"? The highpoints of every continent? Not yet been on Mount Everest? Not even on Denali? And no chance ever standing on top of these? Too weak getting your ass off the sofa? You can be helped. Simply abandon the USUAL height spleen.
'Cause Everest is by no means automatically the highest mountain on Earth; it is only when you subscribe to the common, totally arbitrary convention that mountains' altitudes must be measured from sea level.
Measured from the center of the Earth, however, Chimborazo in Ecuador turns out highest, and he is even climbable for all those who really want.
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So You Want to Make a Rope Rug Eh!
by JScoles
Well since I was kicked out to the Guild of Radical Ice Climbing for publishing 'So you Want to Sharpen your Tools!'
I figured, 'what the hell!', I might as well get thrown out of the International Guild of Knot Tyers as well. So here is the result.
For a long time I have been tinkering with trying to tie a rope rug. Of course I could just get it professionally done and have it completed much more cheaply and quickly that I ever could but what is the fun in that? More
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Featured Photos
View to Prater's Summit
by cab
from the top of the couloir leading up to a few hundred feet above the Split/Prater saddle. 7/11/10
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Sub-peak of Kahiltna Peak West
by brandonriza
A sub-peak of Kahiltna Peak West shot from C1 on the Kahiltna.
Who dumped Cool-Whip all over this place?
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Photo of the Moment
 Hood from above May 18, 2013 3:45 PM by kdonaldson
Photo of the Day
 Lone Pine Peak seen from... May 16, 2013 1:00 AM by Marcsoltan
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Photo of the Week
 Cerro Toco Summit Sunset May 6, 2013 11:30 AM by Jack B
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