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Mountain: Carderock
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Mountain: Dike Wall, north face
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Mountain: Peak Fifteen
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Route: Chipeta Falls WI3+
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Featured Trip Reports

Snowshoer Thing - Mount Trudee by Stu Brandel

I have been enjoying snowshoeing for a couple of years now, enjoying how it extends the climbing and hiking year. I have especially been enjoying snowshoeing in the Northwoods of the upper Midwest (Wisconsin, Michigan, and Minnesota). In January this year I was able to head up to Minnesota's North Shore of Lake Superior. I had picked a couple of objectives I thought would be good for my best friend Big Al, who was just starting out on showshoes and looking for an intro into the sport. Unfortunately, his car was ambushed by an ice storm in Cleveland and he could not join me. Fortunately, he thus could not join me and be ambushed by his friend's questionable summit-influenced judgement of what would be a good trail for a beginner. In some respects, it felt like my first real snowshoe trip in terms of mileage, elevation, snow depth, and weather conditions. And while the snow muted the scenery, it was unquestionably wild and beautiful fun. But it's no sure thing snowshoer thing.
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Crippled Peakbagging IV: Sturm und drang by Castlereagh

With daylight hours dwindling by mid-September Greg convinced me to borrow a headlamp from him just in case, though I hoped that I would not need it. The weather forecast was optimistic with just 20% chance of tstorms after noon before serious weather moved in the rest of the week, and I figured that I could sneak in the peak before the storms, if any, and this day trip before a planned Glacier outing and yet another Vegas bachelor party the last weekend of September.
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Old Dreams Die Hard: An Attempt to Climb the Highest Volcano on Earth by Scott

Ojos del Salado is a peak that I have wanted to climb for a long time. In fact, it became one of my top three "dream climbs" back in 1984, at age 10, which is when I first read about the mountain. The other two dream climbs at the time were Muztag Ata and Aconcagua. Unlike Aconcagua however, Ojos del Salado seemed so mysterious and unknown. Dreams however, change over time and over the years I focused on other mountains in the world and never got close to Ojos del Salado.

Old dreams are eventually either fulfilled, never die, or die hard, so Ojos del Salado was always in the back of my mind somewhere and for a later date. That later date finally came in January 2016. Because of work, I can only get time off in the Northern Hemisphere winter. My thirteen year old son and I wanted to attempt something higher than we ever have before. Aconcagua came to mind, but that mountain has gotten more expensive and crowded over the years. There was also a rule in place that you had to be 14 years of age to climb it and my son was not 14 yet. Ojos del Salado seemed like the logical choice for our climb in the winter of 2015-2016.
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Panther Gorge-New Ice Route-By Tooth and Claw by MudRat

I needed my Panther Gorge fix—the last visit was in November. Warm temperatures in the valley prompted me to consider how much ice might be in the gorge. The low snowpack made it even more tempting given the 8.5 mile-long approach. Panther Gorge veteran Bill Schneider and Devin Farkas, assistant director of the Outdoor Program at St. Lawrence University, jumped on board. As usual we met at the Rooster Comb parking lot at 5:00 am to sort gear and drive a single car to the Garden. Temperatures hovered at 15F though they were forecast to rise to the mid-thirties in the valley.
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Featured Articles

Georges Livanos Georges Livanos "Le Grec" by ericvola

Georges Livanos Alias Le Grec, King of the Calanques, Emperor in the Dolomites, 500 first ascents beyond Verticality. One of the aphorisms he always was found of: "Better one more peg than one man less… especially if that man is me!” Pure amateur, he put 25.000 pegs, opened 500 routes in the Calanques of Marseille, 40 in the Dolomites, around 20 in the Alps and repeated quite a number of big routes in the Alps and the Dolomites. Many of the great names of Alpinism did rope with him, Jean Franco, Maurice Herzog, Lionel Terray, Gaston Rébuffat, Jean Couzy,Michel Vaucher, Claudio Barbier, not to mention his Italian friends such as Gino Soldà, Armando da Roit, Beppi de Franchesch, Marcello Bonafede, Menegus, Stenico and many others particularly when they came in the Calanques.
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Chasing the Light Chasing the Light by Mark Doiron

Photography is all about light. That should be patently obvious to even the most casual observer.
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Abalakov in history and in ice Abalakov in history and in ice by Liba Kopeckova

The Abalakov thread, or V-thread is ice protection named after Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov. To know how to make a proper Abalakov (=v-thread) should be a requirement for anyone climbing multi-pitch ice routes. It is easy to create, it doesn’t require leaving expensive gear behind, e.g. rappeling on an ice screw, and it is very safe. I have used abalakov’s in anchors, even as an protection when running out of screws, and mostly it is used for rappel.
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Featured Photos

Cayesh_thru_Seracs Cayesh_thru_Seracs by sharperblue

Cayesh as seen through seracs on the East San Juan Glacier

User Profile Image User Profile Image by chris_r

Photo of the Moment

North from Lone Pine peak
Feb 13, 2016 2:03 PM by Noondueler

Photo of the Day

Pioneer Triumvirate From Bald Mountain
Feb 12, 2016 12:41 AM by yorbaram

Photo of the Week

Cima Canali West Face
Feb 6, 2016 8:33 AM by AlbertoRampini

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