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Triglav Group

Area: Triglav Group
by Vid Pogachnik

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Double Cross, 5.7+

Route: Double Cross, 5.7+
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Mountain: Alam Kooh
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Route: Tresero SW Normal route
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Mountain: Dôme de Rochefort
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Route: Northwest Face
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Mountain: Angels Landing
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Featured Trip Reports

The Winds at our Backs - A ski crossing of the Wind River Range by relic

In late April of 2015 a friend and I skied across the Wind River Range from the Torrey Lake entrance, up over Burro Pass, down into Dinwoody Creek, took in a summit of Gannett, then exited over Bonney Pass and out to Elkhart Park. It was true wilderness experience; we did not see another human for the entire trip.

The snow drought of 2015 was very evident, the lack of snow in spots on the east side required us to carry the skis almost to Burro Pass,then in quite a few intermittent spots as we worked our way up the Dinwoody. It took 4 days to hike or ski in, with Gannett Peak finally coming into view at the end of day 3; we intentionally set a camp that evening with a great view of the mountain. Day 4 we moved up into the basin directly below the Gooseneck Glacier, finding a perfect rocky alcove in which to set a partly protected camp.

White Hill - Cheticamp Flowage by MountainHikerCO

It was almost 11:00 am when we came to a survey cut line that isn’t marked on the map. I did know of its existence from studying the aerial photos of the area. I had a copy of the aerial photo with me. This survey cut line probably indicates the National Park boundary. I knew if the road still existed we had to be within a 100 meters of it along this cut line. Dorthe waited while I first walked about 100 meters in the direction I thought least likely, just to eliminate it. After getting back to Dorthe we didn’t have to travel very far in the other direction to finally meet up with this road. It was now a full 2 hours after leaving the lake. We had only gained about a kilometer in that hour with a lot of thrashing through the bushes.

Little Hikers on the North Mountain by Rocky Alps

Ever since watching “Frozen”, our 3-year-old daughter Ivy has wanted to climb the North Mountain. North Peak (the one near Mount Nebo), one of the few remaining Wasatch 11ers on my list, seemed like the closest mountain having a similar name, so I told her that if she got really good at hiking this summer then we could give it a try. Until this summer she’d mostly just been taken along for the ride in our kid carrier backpack, but with her baby sister Elissa now having dibs on the backpack it was time for Ivy to get used to hiking more on her own. We started out on some easier family hikes in the Wasatch, some of which we’d already done before along with some new ones.

Chilliwack Slam: Spickard, Rahm, Custer, Redoubt, SE Mox by StephAbegg

The Chilliwack Group has particular appeal to peak-baggers because it has five* of Washington's 100 highest summits within close proximity—#16 (Spickard), #18 (Redoubt), #39 (Custer), #56 (SE Mox), and #60 (Rahm). We figured we could easily climb all five in a matter of 4-5 days. At this point, I am not specifically pursuing the Top 100 summits yet, but a trip like this at least inspires the idea to begin to stew in the back of my mind. After all, SE Mox is often considered to be one of the hardest summits on the list, so having that one tagged would make the list all the more achievable. (*Note: At the time we did not realize that there were actually six Top 100 summits in the area, with NW Mox being #75; if we had known we would have climbed NW Mox on our final day before hiking out. Oh well, just gives a reason to go back to the area!)

Even with all our winter day trip-planning, Brian and I had never really nailed down a specific order in which to climb the five summits. The decision was finally made when an early July snowstorm left a fresh dusting of snow on the North Cascades, encouraging us to plan on first climbing the more moderate Spickard, Rahm, and Custer, giving the snow a chance to melt off of the steeper and rockier Redoubt and SE Mox, which we would climb from a basecamp at the head of the Redoubt Glacier. At the onset of the trip, we had been a bit concerned that the early season snowcover would pose some problems, but in the end we discovered that the snow covered much of the annoying scree and talus we had read about, expedited our traverses and descents, and gave the climbs more of an alpine flavor.

Featured Articles

Abalakov in history and in ice Abalakov in history and in ice by Liba Kopeckova

The Abalakov thread, or V-thread is ice protection named after Soviet climber Vitaly Abalakov. To know how to make a proper Abalakov (=v-thread) should be a requirement for anyone climbing multi-pitch ice routes. It is easy to create, it doesn’t require leaving expensive gear behind, e.g. rappeling on an ice screw, and it is very safe. I have used abalakov’s in anchors, even as an protection when running out of screws, and mostly it is used for rappel.

A rebel plant - Helleborus niger A rebel plant - Helleborus niger by selinunte01

Autumn and winter is coming to central Europe and to the Alpine regions and with them the dying of the plants, the falling of the leaves, the decay of all what is sprouting, blossoming and producing fruits and seeds during spring and summer. Soon enough there is the first snow, covering the ground, giving a definite stop to plants life. Light your oven, prepare your skies and wait till springtime for the first tiny blossoms to reappear…… You are wrong!

The necessary and sometimes black art of getting down The necessary and sometimes black art of getting down by ExcitableBoy

Standing on top of a summit, after congratulatory hugs and handshakes, I make it a point to say out loud, ‘We’re half way there.’ I say this not necessarily for my partner’s benefit, but for my own. Statistically, more accidents occur while descending mountains than climbing up them.

Featured Photos

Shivling Shivling by ganesh70

On the way to Gaumukh I had the first good view of Shivling ( 6543 m ), and it completely took my breath away. I've seen a lot of wonderful mountains in my life, but this one it's really different, its beauty it's almost uncompared...

Cooper-Kor, V, 5.10 Cooper-Kor, V, 5.10 by Dow Williams

I made Peter promise not to tell his nols instructors or his mom that I suggested we skip the rope on the glacier descent. Cooper-Kor, V, 5.10, 18 Pitches, East Face of Pigeon Spire, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, British Columbia, August, 2009

Photo of the Moment

Buck Mountain seen from the summit of Static Peak, Teton Range, WY
Nov 24, 2015 7:25 PM by PanamaRed

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Lyskamm (14852 ft / 4527 m) as seen from Castor
Nov 23, 2015 2:26 PM by Lodewijk

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Taranta Valley and Altare dello Stincone
Nov 14, 2015 3:55 AM by Falk

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