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Monte Sernio

Mountain: Monte Sernio
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Route: Normal Route / South Cwm
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Mountain: Mount Khüiten
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Route: Amasa Back
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Route: Durrance Route
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Mountain: Ishinca
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Mountain: Großer Möseler / Gran Mesule
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Featured Trip Reports

Chilean Chronicles Volume 2 - Exploring Pucon and Success on Lanin Volcano by Matt Lemke

After thoroughly exploring Nahuel Huapi National Park (described in previous trip report), I narrowed in on the area surrounding Pucon, Chile. I made plans to take the international bus from San Martin de los Andes towards Temuco passing over the international border just north of Lanin, however the eruption of Villarrica, which sits directly above the town of Pucon decided to erupt and the crossing was closed. Since it would likely be closed for a few days I had no choice but to take buses back south and return to Osorno. This would unfortunately take a couple days so I figured I could relax awhile and bus from one town to the next. So I ended up getting a ticket to Villa la Angstura and stayed there for a night at a very nice hostel. Walking through town that afternoon I was bit by a dog (although I look back now and it was more of a nibble), nonetheless, it gave me a rabies scare so I went to the local doctor but since no one there spoke English it was hard to communicate. Finally I understood using Google Translate that there has never been a case of rabies anywhere near the area. I then walked back to the hostel and enjoyed a nice dinner (pizza again!) at a local shop that seemed to have issues with their power since the power would go out every 20 minutes or so.

Higher Squire snowshoe by StephAbegg

The weekend forecast was for sun, so the mountains were calling. I decided to join my friends Gabriel, Lindsay, Carla, and Yana on a snowshoe adventure to Higher Squire off the Mountain Loop Highway (just east of Darrington). This destination proved to be a great choice. The route started on the Eight Mile Creek trail, and once we hit enough snow to put on snowshoes, we cut away from the trail and headed directly up towards the summit of Higher Squire via its NE side. We arrived at the satisfyingly narrow summit three hours after leaving the car. From there we had unobscured views of views of Three Fingers and Whitehorse to the west and northwest. After a long lunch break, we enjoyed a pleasant romp over to Squire Creek Pass, which placed us even closer to the sheer eastern walls of Three Fingers. We had vague intentions to climb Ulalach Peak to the north, so we headed in that direction. By the time we arrived at the final slopes, we knew we had to make a decision between summiting Ulalach and making an entirely-dark descent or turning around, tagging Point 4274 instead, and making most of the descent in the daylight. We chose the latter, arriving back at the car 9.5 hours after we left that morning. What a great way to spend a winter day in the Cascades!

Tsartse Bound by radson

Climbing equipment, tent and 3 days worth of backcountry food was laid out and divided amongst Pete and my backpacks. At 2pm we headed down the valley to find a cache site for our gear. Between snow showers and cloud we spotted some tents in the distance and made a beeline. After 2 hours walking with full packs we came across a disenchanted Lithuanian team. They had come up the fast but dangerous way and had hit the bad weather that we were waiting out. Their aim was Tashi Kang but they were departing the next day after a 4 day wait. They gave us some hot soup and we chatted about our mutual friend Ernestas Marksaitis who was murdered this year on Nanga Parbat.

Pete and I cached our gear in a handy Sea to Summit duffle bag and ..oh my god. We so hope our gear is there when we return. We headed back to camp in deteriorating weather and snow and sleet was sticking to our pants and jackets. We had been super cautious on the way down to take compass bearings and identify landmarks that we were able to navigate back with ease in 1.5 hours.

First Ascent to Igls Peak by raumplaner

It was the morning of 23rd August 2014 when we started early for the ascent to the summit. Fortunately, the weather seemed to remain one more day pleasant and we soon reached the beginning of the steep, glaciated slopes leading to the summit. Due to heavy snowfall a few days before nearly all crevasses were covered with snow so it was spiteful to find a way through the steep labyrinth of snow and ice. Close to the top it was necessary to use several ice screws to cross a huge ice ridge. But it should have been the most difficult part of the whole ascent because once the barrier was conquered we - Christian Müller (Austria), Stephan Tischler (Austria), Naseer Uddin (Pakistan) and Rahim Hayat (Pakistan) – finally reached the plain summit and were the first humans on this mountain with its incredible panorama.

Featured Articles

So, you want to climb Mt Rainier. So, you want to climb Mt Rainier. by ExcitableBoy

Mount Rainier is a unique mountain within the contiguous United States. No other mountain is as extensively glaciated or has as prodigious a prominence. The scale and character of Mt. Rainier is more akin to an Alaskan or Andean peak. The highest trailhead requires the climber to gain 9,000 feet of elevation to reach the summit, as much as from Everest ABC to its summit. The weather on Mt. Rainier changes remarkably quickly, typically for the worse. Blizzards are not uncommon in August, and the high winds and moisture laden air sap heat and wilt down insulation. If you are planning an attempt on Rainier there are a few things you should know. Below are some tips I have gleaned from over two decades and dozens of climbs on ‘The Mountain’. Bear in mind that this article is not a substitute for proper instruction or experience. Mt. Rainier kills climbers almost every year.

The History of SummitPost, Volume V The History of SummitPost, Volume V by Bob Sihler

Once upon an SP time, there were three awesome articles detailing the history of SummitPost (up through 2006).

Sadly, the author, a fine writer and once a highly prominent member of the site, deleted those submissions when he became angry with the site and deleted many of his pages and transferred some others. While most deleted pages here are no great loss in the grand scheme since they can be replaced or may not have had much value to begin with, the deletion of those articles was a real loss to SP because they were informative, well-written, and balanced. Newcomers have no good way now to learn the rich history of SummitPost, along with some of its greatest controversies, from its 2001 founding up until about 2006.

This article, and the one preceding it, is not an attempt to recreate those previous ones. As someone who was witness to and a player in many of the events involved with exploring those questions, I am trying to be as objective as possible but realize there may be sharply different viewpoints. I encourage readers to read the comments as well, for there they may see some of those different perspectives.

The Aftermath, Josh's accident in the Canadian Rockies The Aftermath, Josh's accident in the Canadian Rockies by gimpilator

Have you ever seen a fellow climber fall down a mountain slope? I have. Six times. Perhaps it was your friend, or someone you know. Have you ever seen someone hit by rockfall? I have. Four times. Have you ever triggered an avalanche? I did once. In the last 10 years of outdoor exploration I have ascended 650 peaks and during that time I have witnessed about 10 injuries. Three of them were serious, but only this one was life threatening.

It's no fun bandaging up a bloodied friend or helping someone hobble down a peak. For those of us who travel in the mountains, certain objective hazards pose higher risk and claim lives on a regular basis. These include but are not limited to avalanche, cornice, and rockfall. We do what we can to minimize this risk but it's not going to keep us at home on the weekend watching the TV. On Mount Cory, in August of 2014, I triggered a large rock which nearly killed one of my best friends, despite our attempt at precautions.

Featured Photos

tickled pink tickled pink by slowbutsteady

Mt. McKinley, June 23, 2013, 12:30 am from park road near Wonder Lake. Olympus 510 with 100-400 Zuiko lens and tripod.

Jorge Urioste Jorge Urioste by Dow Williams

Celebrating his 77th along side a barrel cactus approximately the same age.Chocolate Rocks, Red Rock NCA, Nevada, February, 2014

Photo of the Moment

Mount Gerlach at sunrise
Apr 20, 2015 8:31 AM by Tomek Lodowy

Photo of the Day

Destinazione Paradiso upper wall
Apr 18, 2015 7:57 AM by AlbertoRampini

Photo of the Week

In Siberia canyon
Apr 12, 2015 4:35 AM by Vid Pogachnik

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