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| 6 Puertos   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Aragon/Huesca, Spain, Europe Route Type: Hiking, Mountaineering Season: Summer, Fall Time Required: Most of a day
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| Page By: ojo Created/Edited: Oct 14, 2011 / Oct 19, 2011 Object ID: 753929 Hits: 336 Loading... Page Score: 87.82% - 12 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
6 PYRENEEAN FRONTIER CROSSINGS IN THE BIELSA-ARAGNOUET AREA  Puerto Viejo & the Churro de Pinarra waterfall, seen from the climb to Puerto Salcorz.
Primary Image: Entering the Barrosa Valley from Hospital de Parzan, early Oct with a touch of new snow on the peaks.
One of the best moments of a hike is coming to a col and seeing what’s on the other side; entering a new valley. And there's a special pleasure in arriving at a frontier or “pass” between countries. These six separate hikes are on routes that have existed for centuries. Now-a-days marked as footpaths for hikers and mountaineers, the “puertos” (passes) were once important communication points between French and Spanish valleys and their communities. Their histories speak of wartime, commerce and even contraband and tell us much about these mountains and their peoples in times gone by.
WHEN: They are ideal hiking terrain in summer months (May-November). Residual or new snow may be present in early and late season. In winter months, some of the areas are accesbile for winter mountaineering, thought this page centres on summer hiking. If considering winter mountaineering make sure you have up-to-date snow conditions information including avalanche forecast.
This wonderful area is threatened by a project of extension of the ski-resort of Piau-Engaly. For more information see the links (only in French) supplied on the Pico Barrosa (2,739m) page written by Visentin who knows the area much better than I do. Visit the Pico Barrosa page for lots more information on the area - especially from the French perspective, which is not supplied on this page.
THESE ROUTES OFFER MANY OPTIONS:
1.) Easy to moderate day hikes to the individual “passes” following marked trails, with options to make some off-trail (not-marked) routes to lakes.
2.) Traverses between the French and Spanish valleys (see NOTE below).
3.) Long-distance footpaths: The French long-distance footpath HRP (Haute Randonée Pyrénéenne - or Alta Ruta Pirenaica)* cruises these these borders, occilating at around 2,300m-2700m, with the options of taking in moderate peaks. Some of the “puertos” can be linked using this trail (in most cases, poorly marked and not showing on all Spanish maps).
4.) Various summits are accesible from most of these passes. Detailed info not given here but where possible, links and further reading are provided.
NOTE: The routes here are from Spanish trailheads – all within a short distance of the village of Bielsa, on the Spanish A-138 road (Aínsa - Bielsa) connecting with France (nearest town Tarbes) via the Bielsa/Aragnouet Tunnel.
* The HRP runs from the Mar Cantabrico (Hendaya) to the Mediterranean (Banyuls-sur-Mer). The French version of the GR11 footpath that traverses the Pyrneees.
THE ROUTES: Most of the information here comes from personal experience of the trails (apart from Tringoniera), information boards found at the trailheads and other tourist information available in Bielsa. All the routes are PR trails: Short-distance footpaths indicated with some signposts and yellow-white markings along the trails. You may also need to follow cairns. The Urdiceto route is mainly on the GR11. 1.) Puerto Viejo or Port de l’Agulleta (2,386m)  Puerto Viejo and the East face of Pico Puerto Viejo from the slopes of Pic de l'Aiguillette.
1.) The nearly-4km Bielsa-Aragnouet tunnel (Spanish A-138) was opened in 1976. Narrow (6m) and with a 5% gradient (1,664m Spain/1,821m France), it provides a two-lane link over the border. CURRENTLY CLOSED FOR RENOVATION UNTIL 1ST DECEMBER 2011.
Before the road existed the Puerto Viejo pass - (viejo=old) - was one of the major links between the valleys and countries. Parzan village, just north of Bielsa town, was once an important mining area (see route 3.) Puerto Barrosa) and these passes were important if not vital communication points in commercial negotiations between the countries and communities. As well as the ligitamate, what might be called “contraband” could be called “commerce” or at least “survival tacticts” for the peoples of these mountain areas – often being the main form of survival in lean times. Produce or materials would have been transported on horseback.
Pastoral “Exchange”. The “sharing” of pasture or grazing land around these cols or passes was agreed on. Cattle from France would be permitted to pass over into the Spanish valleys to graze in the autumn while in summer the Spanish would “rent” land in the Viell-Aure and Aragnouet valleys for their animals.
Other ancient commerce used to involve basics such as wine, wool, salt and olive oil from Spain and donkeys from France. The Aragonese would travel to France to obtain hay or cattle food and the French would travel to Spain for the olive harvest.
Perhaps the Puerto Viejo’s most important modern-day history relates the heroic resitence of the Spanish Republicans against the advancing Franquistas during the Spanish Civil War. The “Bolsa de Bielsa” lasted nearly 3 months, during which around 5,000 civilians escaped over the border to France – traversing around 10km and nearly 800m of ascent – the valley still deep in snow - to safety.
Curiosities at the pass: Two tiny huts on the ridge may look rather like look-out bunkers but were once "palomeras" - used by hunters to trap "palomas" - (dove or more likely pidgeons) during their migration). There is also, on the French side, an information board about the pass and the Bolsa de Bielsa.
TECHNICAL DETAILS:Puerto Viejo from the Bielsa-Aragnouet Tunnel. PRHU182.
| TIMING |
ASCENT GAIN/LOSS |
DISTANCE |
| Aprox 1h 45m one way |
714m |
4.5km |
Terrain: Easy rock paths, grassy slopes. Marked with yellow-white markings. After 50mins you will reach a small hut. Ten minutes later, a signpost marks the turning to Puerto Forqueta (see below). Puerto Viejo can be seen clearly ahead now, dominated by Pico de Puerto Viejo to the left. Options: West of Puerto Viejo: Pico de Puerto Viejo (2.735m) allow 1 hour to the summit. Trail is marked with cairns. Care needed on steep sections. East of the “puerto” the Pic de l’Aiguillette or Agulleta (2,517m). Allow about 20 minutes of easy trail to the summit cairn. HRP. The high Pyrenees trail runs both SW and E from the “puerto”, though you will only find vague markings (red-white paint markings). Not all Spanish maps show the footpath.2.) Puerto la Forqueta or Puerto de Bielsa (2,428m)  The narrow breech of the Puerto de Bielsa or Forqueta.
Puerto la Forqueta is a narrow breech in the rocks to the E of Puerto Viejo. An easy hike on a variation of the PRHU182 (see Puerto Viejo). From this pass you could pick up the HRP (High Route Pyrenees) either W to Puerto Viejo via Pic de Marioules (2,562m) or E towards Pico Bataillance (2,604m) – both peaks can be climbed, though the HRP route does not summit Marioules. In both cases, as is the norm for a lot of the HRP trail, the paths are not well defined. Expect loose, steep terrain in places.
Hike: to Puerto La Forqueta (2,428m) from Bielsa/Aragnouet Tunnel.
TECHNICAL DETAILS:Puerto Forqueta from the Bielsa Tunnel. PRHU182
| TIMING |
ASCENT GAIN/LOSS |
DISTANCE |
| Aprox 2 hours one way |
764m |
5km |
 From La Forqueta towards Puerto Viejo.
Terrain: Stoney trails and easy if steep slopes. Yellow & white markings all the way.3.) Puerto de Barrosa or Barroude. (2,535m)  Puerto de Barrosa and the north face of La Munia and Troumousse.
A long hike up the Barrosa Valley from the village of Hospital de Parzán takes you into three-thousand-metre terrritory – or at least to the foothills of them. On some maps this pass is called: Paso Esapña and takes you into the French Géle valley. To the west we have the La Munia/l'Almunia Gran 3,135m and Tormoseta (3,089m) massifs. The rocky walls of the Montañas de Ruego and Liena reach lesser altitudes but “close” the valley to the south. In these southern hills the presence of important minerals – iron, lead even silver in Roman times - has seen the valley exploited through the centuries and probably as early as Prehistoric times.
There is indications that the Romans mined silver here. First documented evidence from 1191 shows that Rey Alfonso II of Aragón authorised 14 miners to work the mines. By the 16th century they were a great industry, principally extracting iron. In the 19th century, French interest saw a society (“Minas de Parzán”) based in Paris gain the rights to exploit the mines, thus requiring a way to transport the mineral to France.
An antique “teleferico” or cable car was designed, employing one of the “puertos” on the opposite side of the Spanish valley at Salcorz (also known as “Puerto del Cable”, see below). The use of two wagons – named Robert & Luisa – formed the inegious “funicular” which is still in situ today. The “cable car” is passed on the way up the valley for this hike.
In early times, the only way to extract minerals was using iron bars and sledgehammers, but in 1922 modern methods were introduced that allowed penetration of up to 60 metres of rock, instead of the previous 6 metres. Some 34 miners worked in 4 shifts, earning little more than 75 cents of a peseta. The lucrativity of these mines has seen exploitation permits pass frequently between private mining companies to merchants from Barbastro, Aragón, Basque Country, Spain, France and even Germany. In 1974 the by now abandoned mines were sold to build the French-Spainish road and the Bielsa tunnel (currently being renovated – Oct 2011 – and closed until December 2011).
Hike: to Puerto de Barrosa / Port de Barroude from Hospital de Parzán.
TECHNICAL DETAILS:Puerto Barrosa from A-138 near Hospital de Parzán.
| TIMING |
ASCENT GAIN/LOSS |
DISTANCE |
| Aprox 3 hours one way |
1,154m |
9.5km |
Terrain: Essentially easy terrain in summer. Start on the A-138 on the left betwen Parzán & Hospital de Parzán. (On some maps marked as HRP route). The ascent is made a little easier by a path that tackles the Circo de Barrosa valley in long zig-zags. SUMMIT OPTIONS: From the pass there’s an easy hike to the Pico Barrosa (2,739m), first ascending to a col at 2,652m reached on a continuation of the frontier crest. North of the col sits Pico de Puerto Viejo (2,723m) which could be climbed with the option to drop down to Puerto de Viejo (see above) and return to the valley via the PRHU187. Be aware that between the Bielsa Tunnel and the start of this hike is about 3km of road. INTO FRANCE: From this pass a signpost indicates the descent to Plan d'Aragnouet in France as costing 3h 15m. The refuge and lakes of Barroude can be reached in 30 minutes.
Puerto Barrosa from Spain. Left: La Munia massif. Centre: Lac de Barroude (France). Right: Pic de Puerto Viejo 2,750m. |
4.) Puerto de Salcorz or "The Donkey" (2,470m)  Towards the Salcorz pass from the little lake of the same name (Spanish side).
The Puerto de Salcorz or Hechempy pass is known by the people of Bielsa as El Burro – the donkey – for its form like an inverted donkey’s saddle. It’s also known as “El Cable” as it played an important part in the mining industy in the valley opposite (see Puerto de Barrosa). The transportation of minerals from the Parzan mines to the Mountang area in France crossed this pass via an ingenious cable car.
“Pacts” between countries. Peaceful “agreements” between Aragonese Pyrneean valleys and their corresponding French ones were important for the survival of the frontier communities and their commerce. Agreements regulating the common use of pastureland was just one of the important arrangementes made to help develop commerce in the area. The first signed “pact” may have been in 1384 between Bielsa and Barecha (Bareges), helping to prevent the conflicts that were commonplace on these borders. From the 16th century onwards new powers aimed to guarantee tax-free commerce between the valleys.
Hike:Puerto de Salcorz. Starting point: The A-138 road just before the Bielsa tunnel (beside the avalanche protecion "bridge" (altitude 1,600m).
TECHNICAL DETAILS:Puerto de Salcorze on the PR-HU 181.
| TIMING |
ASCENT GAIN/LOSS |
DISTANCE |
| Aprox 2h 30m one way |
879m |
5.5km |
5.) Puerto de Tringoniero or Moudang (2,495m)  Puerto de Tringoniero (left of the tiny blue patch of water!) from summit of Pico Ibonet.
Another hispano-french communication port used by contrabandistas, travellers and businesspeople in times gone by. Also called Port de Marcatiecho depending on your map. Is one approach point for Pic del Ibonet or Tringoniero also called Pic d'Arriouére (2,866m). This long steep hike starts on the A-138 road north of Bielsa at the site of the old French-Spanish border control (1,300m). Marked as the PRHU180 (there is an information panel at the start). An un-marked detour can take in the Tringoniero lakes which can also take you to the crest and south crest of Pic del Ibonet. The hike to this "puerto" is on easy terrain though significant elevation gain, and is outlined on the route page for north ridge of Pico Ibonet via Puerto Tringoniero.
TECHNICAL DETAILS:Puerto de Tringoniero. PRHU180.
| TIMING |
ASCENT GAIN/LOSS |
DISTANCE |
| Aprox 3 hours one way |
1,195m |
7.5km |
El Puerto de Urdiceto or Port d'Ourdissetou (2,403m)  Urdiceto pass with Punta Fulsa behind.
This “puerto” links the Spanish Urdiceto valley with Rioumajou. From the Bielsa trainhead the hike involves 10.5km and 1,228m of ascent via the GR11 long-distance footpath. This follows the same line as a rough track, drivable only in 4x4. The trail is mainly on this track, with sections of path. Just before arriving at the Urdiceto/Ordizeto lake and col (sometimes called the Colllado de Caballo), a short 30 minute detour left takes you up to the frontier crest via the HRP - Haute Route Pirinaica or GRT30 (this is painted on the rock,there is no signpost). This pass is also on the GR18 – Camino de Santiago trai -, marked by a newish plaque. At this pass, along with many others points on the frontier, you may spot a “muga” – a number painted on the rocks used in the mapping of the frontier. The Urdiceto pass has number 326, hidden just above the obvious narrow pass. From this pass you can reach Pic de Ordiceto. The nearest peak featured on SP is Peña Blanca or Tuquet de Cauarere, further E along the crest. There's lots of information on the Blanca page, especially on the French side of the border.
Hike: El Puerto de Urdiceto (2,403m) from Parzán (1,150m)  Puerto de Urdiceto from Punta Suelza.
TECHNICAL DETAILS:Puerto de Urdiceto (GR11 & HRP).
| TIMING |
ASCENT GAIN/LOSS |
DISTANCE |
| Aprox 3h 15m one way |
1,228m |
10.5km |
FURTHER INFORMATIONThe Bielsa.com website in English is "currently under construction" (Oct 2011) but hopefully will soon be up and running.
French maps: you will need the Bigorre area.
An example (not from personal use/experience): Fando Éditions. Area: Bigorre. ISBN: 0210075 - Scale: 1:50.000. Edition 1999. For hiking and treking use. This map (not from personal experience) covers: Argelès-Gazost, Bagnères-de-Bigorre, Pierrefitte-Nestalas, Luz-St-Sauveur, Barèges, La Mongie, Arreau, St Lary, Cauterets y Gavarnie. Also covers the massifs of Bigorre, Néouvielle, Bachimala, Munia, Vignemale y Monte Perdido; also the passes of Col du Tourmalet, Col du Soulor & Tunnel de Bielsa.
Spanish maps: Ed. PRAMES. 1:40.000. LLardana & Posets (Map number 5). Very little detail of the French side of the border. Neither the PRHU routes nor the HRP are marked.
Ed. Alpina. Ordesa & Monte Perdido parque nacional. 1:40.000. More detail of the HRP on this map. Some of the PRHU routes marked.
GUIDE BOOKS: Colección: Paseos y excursiones Bielsa & Tell-Sin. (GR y PR)
Autor: R. Lasaosa y PRAMES - I.S.B.N: 84-8321-143-2. 1:40.000. Images
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Pirineos: Bielsa > 6 Puertos
