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Dow WilliamsAdventure Punks  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 5, 2013

Dow Williams

I normally don't sign summit logs on repeats, but this one deserves it for two reasons: I was with good friend and partner Peter S. and just how worthy this route is. I led the same pitches, the same way, 1, 3 and 5...meaning I placed a piece up and left, then descended to climb the first several meters with at least some pro. This means you will sacrifice by not placing any pro for several meters (too much rope drag if you did) once you hit the crack, but the climbing is easy for the first few meters of the crack anyway. I believe this to be the safest way to start the route. Again, with the two pro bolts on pitch 5, I find one #5 and #6 totally adequate without having to walk either. Pitches 1, 3, 4 and 5 are just really stellar for Red Rock, particularly to be found on one route.
Posted Mar 8, 2013 12:01 pm

Dow WilliamsAdventure Punks  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2011

Dow Williams

Good route...not sure super duper classic status or anything, but the approach is one of the more pleasant at Red Rock which adds to its value. I led the crux, the 5th pitch 5.10d off width. A bit more techy than the last off width pitch on the north face of Castleton Tower (Moab), but quite a bit easier than the Feast of Snakes off width or most any off width for that matter in Zion Natoinal Park. The 2nd half of the pitch goes much easier than the first half so relax once you get through that initial wide section (I only used one #6). The third and fourth pitches were real good. The first pitch was a fun one as well. The second pitch was just ok. On the first pitch, I placed a bomber .75 up and left, then downclimbed, traversed right and up the flake. At 48, not into busting a bone by some stupid 5.9 slab mis move. So the "scary" start, can actually be protected if you want. Kudos to Robert F and his partner replacing the final old bolts at the stations the same week I climbed it.
Posted Jun 7, 2011 7:29 pm

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