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Aiguille du Midi Climber's Log

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LorenzRoute Climbed: Carli-Chassagne Date Climbed: 19-20 March 2005  Sucess!

Lorenz

great mixed route at the very right of the north face. three pitches in goulotte of 70/75 degrees maximum (IV/4-) plus a rock passage of V. beatiful winter bivy. Picutes here
Posted Apr 20, 2005 10:58 am

erik_ravenstijnRoute Climbed: Normal from Cosmiques hut Date Climbed: 7 february 2004
Date Climbed: Feb 8, 2005

erik_ravenstijn

Done from Chamonix going all the way up via the Mer de Glace. Quite cold because it was winter. Went with snowshoes and carried complete bivouac equipment (tent inclusive) the way up. To see the Mont Blanc group in winter is marvellous! Also some pics at www.climbingtours.net
Posted Mar 12, 2005 4:27 pm

Antonio GianiRoute Climbed: Parete Sud Date Climbed: Agosto 1973  Sucess!

Antonio Giani

Via classica (Gaston Rébuffat)
Posted Dec 22, 2004 5:41 pm

noahRoute Climbed: cosmiques Date Climbed: 2001-03  Sucess!

noah

first climb in the alps (01), want a great introduction.



and in winter late 03.
Posted Oct 16, 2004 6:51 pm

PaddyrockRoute Climbed: cosmiques ridge Date Climbed: 30th sept 04  Sucess!

Paddyrock

nice climb good day out
Posted Sep 30, 2004 1:56 pm

flearretaRoute Climbed: Arête des Cosmiques Date Climbed: August 15, 2004  Sucess!

flearreta

Nice route. We camped at Col du Midi and started from there. Took us about 3 hours, mostly simul-climbing with only a few protected pitches and one 20-meter rappel. We used this climb as for acclimatization for the Traverse of Mont Blanc, a few hours later. Needless to say we ended completely trashed back at Col du Midi after the whole ordeal!
Posted Sep 8, 2004 12:49 pm

Phillip StasiwRoute Climbed: Arete des Cosmiques Date Climbed: 29 July 2004  Sucess!

Phillip Stasiw

A fine mixed route in fair condition,however the wait at the final pitch was frustrating,allow 1hr extra and perhaps 40mins at the abseils onto the time.
Posted Sep 8, 2004 11:23 am

joel2loungeRoute Climbed: Arete des Cosmiqies Date Climbed: September 2001  Sucess!

joel2lounge

lifts make this feel like sport alpine climbing. still a classic
Posted Jul 25, 2004 12:40 pm

cherokeeRoute Climbed: Frendo Spur Date Climbed: August 3, 1976  Sucess!

cherokee

What I remember the most of this climb is that the day started wonderful, then just after we started on the "spur" the weather turned stormy and the wind got very strong and man was it hairy! In the conditions we went to far to the left of the rock at 3700, had to climb back down to find the beginning of the cracked slabs. The cracks by the chimney were a bit icy and hard and slowed us down and I was extremely tired when we reached the Midi-Plan Ridge.
Posted Jun 2, 2004 1:49 pm

GumpieRoute Climbed: Frendo Spur Date Climbed: summer 1992  Sucess!

Gumpie

We took the first gondola up to the midstation. It was a pretty dry summer so we didn't found too much ice at all. Nice granite climbing. This is a good "acclimatisation" climb to prepare for some bigger stuff. Kind of strange beiing observated by all the tourists from the gondola while climbing. But the ride down is sooo great. Good memories and a great climbing partner.
Posted May 13, 2004 7:22 pm

pmakelaDate Climbed: 06.1999  Sucess!

pmakela

Good climbing.
Posted Feb 27, 2004 4:00 am

Dan BaileyRoute Climbed: cosmiques and midi-plan traverse Date Climbed: summer 1998  Sucess!

Dan Bailey

cool. cold, even.
Posted Feb 10, 2004 11:47 am

il.rocciatoreRoute Climbed: Arête des Cosmiques Date Climbed: july 2003  Sucess!

il.rocciatore

A beautiful and pleasant climb. We started at one o'clock in the afternoon and were the last group of the day to complete the ascent. The nice thing about this climb is the alternation of snow and rock while the grade of the route isn't that difficult. Due to small amount of snow on the route we climbed it without the use of crampons.

Had a wonderfull time and good company!!!
Posted Dec 6, 2003 11:09 am

Mister ORoute Climbed: last stairs to peak platform Date Climbed: april 2003  Sucess!

Mister O

Was for long the highest point I was ever been. Paid a smacking 31 euros to get a magnificent view on mont blanc and valley of chamonix.

Most difficult part of the route were those two last steps on the stair, because there was a little ice on it, luckily I had my climbing boots on!!!



;-)
Posted Sep 23, 2003 2:11 pm

Andy KennedyRoute Climbed: Cosmiques Arete Date Climbed: 30th July 2003  Sucess!

Andy Kennedy

Climbed in very dry conditions altering the charcter of the route some what! No snow at all except for the final bit of horizontal ridge leading to the short aided section. Lengthy detours ensued resulting in one missed cable car and another night spent in the station!
Posted Aug 22, 2003 9:26 am

eugeneowenRoute Climbed: Arete des Cosmiques Date Climbed: 22 June 2003  Sucess!

eugeneowen

Started and ended at the Aguille du Midi cable car - did a round trip down the snort snow ridge, over the Col and then onto the actual Cosmiques Ridge. My 1st climb with crampons over mixed terrain on a great sunny day.
Posted Jul 22, 2003 9:33 am

7summitsRoute Climbed: Cosmiques Arete Date Climbed: 29th April 2003  Sucess!

7summits

Very windy day, but beautiful route. We were the only ones. Ending was different, we climbedNW of the last ridge which was interesting, especially wearing a large pack with 2 pairs of snowshoes :-)
Posted May 6, 2003 2:57 pm

athpalRoute Climbed: Arete des Cosmiques Date Climbed: 20 August 2002  Sucess!

athpal

It was an easy nice climb in variable weather conditions. It took to us about 3 hours because of traffic.
Posted Apr 24, 2003 3:41 am

ProbemeisterRoute Climbed: Midi-plan traverse and Cosmiques arete Date Climbed: July o1 and aug 02  Sucess!
The Midi-Plan is an excellent route on snow and rock, PD, we did it there and back in quite a fierce storm, careful navigation required on the broader bit of the ridge near the Midi due to a real white out, not just a snowstorm.



The Cosmiques arete is quite a cheesy climb, it's cheesy alpinism and the climbing isn't that great either, dusty rock, crowds and crap moves. I'd save this one for a good snowstorm, make sure it's not an electrical storm though! As a snowed up rock route it would be great.
Posted Mar 27, 2003 4:18 am

Tom FralichRoute Climbed: See Below Date Climbed: See Below  Sucess!

Tom Fralich

Cosmiques Arete -- March 21, 2003 -- Climbed with Juan Valderrama after taking an early morning cable car. Really fun climb! Since Juan had climbed the route already, he was nice enough to let me lead the most interesting pitches. We were looking forward to a nice lunch at the end of the climb, but when we got to the top station, we realized that we had both forgotten to bring any money!



Cosmiques Spur (Rebuffat-Pierre) -- June 3, 2005 -- Climbed with Philippe Gerschel on a very hot day in Chamonix. Very sustained climbing at UIAA IV on steep rock. We used three moves of aid (with etriers) to pass the crux roof, making the route V A1. Very solid rappel anchors (bolts) allowed us to return quickly to our packs at the bottom of the route. The snow on the way back to the Aig du Midi was incredibly soft. We took about 3 hours for the route.
Posted Mar 26, 2003 10:41 am

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