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Aiguille Noire

 
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Aiguille Noire
The descent route from Aiguille Noire de Peuterey. Near pt. 3519m are shown two of the several possible variants - the lower is the one normally used in descent, but the higher one may be simpler to follow in bad visibility.


A = Pt. 3519m


B = shoulder 3374m


C = the "twin gendarmes", 3291m. The first must be turned the S side (Fauteuil des Allemands), the second on the N side (Brenva)


D = chimney-dihedral of the higher variant


E = the "square gendarme", should be used as reference point, as the final descent towards the Fauteuil begins here


F = rounded, shallow spur dividing the main "amphitheatre" below the summit from a secondary "bowl" that allows access to the East ridge


G = chimney-dihedral of the lower variant


H = second shallow spur (important reference point)


I = slabby couloir


1 = Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, main summit (3773m)


2 = Pt. Bich (3743m) - named after Valtournenche guide Edoardo Bich


3 = Pt. Ottoz (3586m) - named after Courmayeur guide Arturo Ottoz, one of the strongest climber in the MB area in mid-XX century (amongst his many climbs, he did the first complete traverse of the Aiguilles de Chamonix)


4 = Pt. Brendel (3498m) - named after Karl Brendel, one of the first ascensionists of the South Ridge


5 = Pt. Welzenbach (3355m) - named after Willo Welzenbach, famous German climber of the pre-WWII era, and the inventor of the first official climbing grading scale. He died in the 1934 Nanga Parbat disaster.


6 = Pt. Bifida (3215m) - "bifida"= two headed


7 = Pic Gamba (3067m) - named after Cesare Gamba, an interesting figure of entrepreneur and a prolific climber of the beginning of XX° century.


(Original picture by Olivier Masselot)

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Submitted by signorellil
on Aug 12, 2007 10:15 am

Image ID: 322669
Hits: 2974 
Lat/Lon: 45.82000°N / 6.89430°E
Object Title: Aiguille Noire