Alpina V UIAA 300 m. | Climbing on Pyramida – Mount Giona

Overview

“Alpina” (V, 300 m.) first ascent was made in 1959 by S. Antypas and D. Karlos. The route follows the North-West ridge which is located on the north face of the pyramid of Mount Giona.

For detailed route description, many photos and FREE topo map click here: https://olympusmountaineering.wordpress.com/2020/08/26/alpina-v-300-m-climbing-on-pyramida-mount-giona-aselinon/

This is a very atmospheric route with great views towards Lazorema and Vathia Laka with plenty of variety in the climbing style, from slab to dehydral and some scrambling too. Alpina is also a great route for winter mountaineering ascents.

Getting There

The route is located in Pyramida of Mount Giona and specifically on the north face of the mountain. Its orientation is north. Approaching the R0 requires 1 hour and 15 minutes of hiking from the camp site. Hiking to the camp site is about 1 hour from the parking lot.

• Parking lot coordinates: 38°39’54.07″, 22°16’11.85″
• Beginning of the route: 38°39’2.03″, 22°15’13.26″
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Route Description

R0 - R1

The route starts with the first pitch (60 m.) exactly at the base of the north-west ridge ( 38°39'2.03", 22°15'13.26") via the obvious couloir. We climb IV UIAA on top of a ledge where there is grass and rubbles and we continue scrambling (attention to the loose rocks) towards the couloir. Entering the couloir we climb a slab of V UIAA and then we go on a ledge where we can find an old peg. We continue on a slab of V UIAA and we move towards the east (right) where we see an old cordelette. We climb IV UIAA up to the obvious belay where there are few old cordelettes. From the belay we can enjoy the magnificent ridge, but also great views towards Lazorema and Vathia Laka.

R1 - R2

From R1 to R2, we first need to pass from the right side of an obelisk shaped rock. This passage is a IV UIAA but quite exposed and in combination with the loose rocks it becomes quite demanding. Having passed the obelisk, the terrain becomes easier (III UIAA) and upon that, we climb IV UIAA consecutive ledges with some rubbles until we reach the beginning of the beautiful ridge. Belay is a solid spot with good view of the ridge.

R2 - R3

From R2 to R3, there is a IV UIAA grade passage on the ridge and soon after the difficulty is max III UIAA. Though at that point the ridge becomes really narrow, the typical knife edge ridge. We then climb a III passage and we belay on a good spot right in the middle of the ridge.

R3 - R4

From R3 to R4, we continue to follow the ridge with stunning view to the east mainly with scrambling of III grade. This pitch is less exposed and easier compared to the previous pitch.

R4 - R5

From R4 to R5, we first need to downclimb about 3 meters and then to follow (II UIAA) the couloir that leads to R5. Prior of reaching R5 we need to climb a short passage of IV UIAA. This pitch is not difficult though from this point and on we always need to be very careful with loose rocks.

R5 - R6

From R5 to R6, the pitch starts with a IV UIAA passage and then the terrain becomes easier of a maximum III UIAA grade.

R6 - R7 - R8 - Peak

From R6 till the end of the route, we need to follow the obvious path. These pitches are relatively easy, though it is very important to pay attention to the loose rocks and rubbles. Once we exit the route, we have to go towards the east (left) and within a minute we reach the highest peak of mount Giona, 2.510 meters.

For detailed route description, many photos and FREE topo map click here: https://olympusmountaineering.wordpress.com/2020/08/26/alpina-v-300-m-climbing-on-pyramida-mount-giona-aselinon/

Essential Gear

For this multi-pitch climb, I used the following gear:

• Mammut Wall Rider Helmet
• The North Face Verto 27 Back pack
• 5 lanyards 60 cm
• 2 lanyards 120 cm
• 4 locking carabiners
• 2 HMS carabiner
• Mammut Ophir Speedfit Harness
• Simond Climbing shoes
• Alpine Quickdraws
• Cordelette for prusik
• 2 x 60 m. 1/2 ropes
• 5 wire gate carabiners
• Reverso
• 1.5 lt of Water
• 1 energy bar
• Rock Nuts
• Sunscreen

External Links

https://olympusmountaineering.wordpress.com/2020/08/26/alpina-v-300-m-climbing-on-pyramida-mount-giona-aselinon/