The endless excitement though wasn't just on your side. As it should be known I turned back with Dave. Dave was extremely tired due to not sleeping for 24 hours. So at 6250 just before going down the ridge to start the main part of the climb he wisely called it there. I was a little tired and probably would have been the slower person here but could have continued.
But my gut here was not feeling so good about Dave going down alone here. He has a ton more experience than I did but conditions below did not look good in the lowest talus field. I was also concerned about the avalanche danger on the mountain slope. To me this was a safety first decision to head back down with mtn.climber.
It was a very wise decision for be to stay back. Josh , Mark , and Mike was with Gimpilator, a man I would trust my life with and they all roped up on the climb. I knew that they were in good hands and were one of the few groups that have actually roped one for the glacier travel required to ascend Eldorado. I was also able to give some in the group extra water for there long ascent to the summit.
At the lower talus field Dave took tripped and fell to the edge of an 8 foot cliff that probably would not have killed him but would have broke some bones if he fell. Luckily he stopped himself before that fall but if it had been one more foot he would have been injured and without me could have been in a bad situation alone 2000 up on a mountain. At least with me there, there were plenty of options! I wouldn't live with myself if he got injured and I wasn't there to help him! Safety first is my motto and I will live by that no matter what. Summits are always a distant third, even if was Eldorado in peak conditions.
It's deffinitely worth it once you get above 6000 feet. If I was going to do it again I woud start earlier, like around midnight, so I could get down before dark. Losing the trail in the dark and river crossings after a long day of climbing are demoralizing.
I wish you had been there too but you made the call and under the circumstances it was the right decision. From what I hear you guys might be giving it a second shot.
DenaliBoundCB - Mar 14, 2010 11:33 pm - Hasn't voted
Definitely Epic. I did Eldorado with my wife in late May '07 as an overnight. Not bad for an overnight, but not sure I would ever want to do it in one day. Well done!
Thanks! You know it's an awesome area then. I think it would have been easier for us if we hadn't been facing fresh snow and horrific post-holing on the way down.
Great report, Adam, I just came across this getting ready for a TWO day trip this Sun-Mon. Your river crossing at the end reminded me of a trip up Russian Butte last June. We had problems finding the Rainy Cr log crossing at night, and I would have gladly walked through it, but needed to find the log to get back on route.
Thanks! Eldorado is a very rewarding peak and one of the most fun climbs I've ever had the pleasure of. I hope your trip goes very well. Make sure to let me know the story when you get back. It's funny you mention Russian Butte because a couple of my friends just had a failed attempt a couple weeks ago.
We had a great climb! The boulder field and 6150' gully were both better than I expected. We setup a 6400' base camp on snow, with low visibility and wind. Then the skies cleared Sun night, and made for excellent crampon conditions. We watched the sun come up near the 7500' high camp, and enjoyed some amazing views!
EastKing - Mar 9, 2010 12:12 am - Voted 10/10
What happened with EastKing and DaveThe endless excitement though wasn't just on your side. As it should be known I turned back with Dave. Dave was extremely tired due to not sleeping for 24 hours. So at 6250 just before going down the ridge to start the main part of the climb he wisely called it there. I was a little tired and probably would have been the slower person here but could have continued.
But my gut here was not feeling so good about Dave going down alone here. He has a ton more experience than I did but conditions below did not look good in the lowest talus field. I was also concerned about the avalanche danger on the mountain slope. To me this was a safety first decision to head back down with mtn.climber.
It was a very wise decision for be to stay back. Josh , Mark , and Mike was with Gimpilator, a man I would trust my life with and they all roped up on the climb. I knew that they were in good hands and were one of the few groups that have actually roped one for the glacier travel required to ascend Eldorado. I was also able to give some in the group extra water for there long ascent to the summit.
At the lower talus field Dave took tripped and fell to the edge of an 8 foot cliff that probably would not have killed him but would have broke some bones if he fell. Luckily he stopped himself before that fall but if it had been one more foot he would have been injured and without me could have been in a bad situation alone 2000 up on a mountain. At least with me there, there were plenty of options! I wouldn't live with myself if he got injured and I wasn't there to help him! Safety first is my motto and I will live by that no matter what. Summits are always a distant third, even if was Eldorado in peak conditions.
gimpilator - Mar 10, 2010 12:08 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: What happened with EastKing and DaveThanks Greg for sharing these details with us. As you know, I wouldn't have bothered writing this trip report if you hadn't asked me to.
climbnshoot - Mar 9, 2010 1:14 am - Hasn't voted
ThxGreat photos, thanks for sharing. I HAVE to give this one another go.
gimpilator - Mar 10, 2010 12:11 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: ThxIt's deffinitely worth it once you get above 6000 feet. If I was going to do it again I woud start earlier, like around midnight, so I could get down before dark. Losing the trail in the dark and river crossings after a long day of climbing are demoralizing.
BearQueen - Mar 9, 2010 1:43 am - Voted 10/10
Epic tripYou and EastKing are really putting together another awesome year. I love the pictures!
gimpilator - Mar 10, 2010 12:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Epic tripThanks! We sure have been lucky so far in the northwest with weather this year.
EricChu - Mar 9, 2010 3:14 pm - Voted 10/10
Great page, gimpilator!!What a fantastic tour that must have been - and you certainly made a superb photographic "harvest"!!
Cheers,
Eric
gimpilator - Mar 10, 2010 12:13 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great page, gimpilator!!Thanks Eric. I appreciate your kind words. Cheers, Adam
Romuald Kosina - Mar 10, 2010 5:47 am - Voted 10/10
Very ...Very good work!!!
Congrats!!!
Romek
gimpilator - Mar 10, 2010 12:13 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Very ...Thanks Romek!
mtn.climber - Mar 10, 2010 2:35 pm - Hasn't voted
Way to Go!!Great job tagging the summit Adam. I wish that Greg and I had been up there to celebrate with you.
gimpilator - Mar 10, 2010 5:08 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Way to Go!!I wish you had been there too but you made the call and under the circumstances it was the right decision. From what I hear you guys might be giving it a second shot.
DenaliBoundCB - Mar 14, 2010 11:33 pm - Hasn't voted
epicGreat job. Wish we could have made it.
gimpilator - Mar 16, 2010 1:08 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: epicThank you. I think this is one of those peaks that usually takes several attempts. Did you try recently?
ncaink - Mar 16, 2010 8:17 pm - Voted 10/10
EpicDefinitely Epic. I did Eldorado with my wife in late May '07 as an overnight. Not bad for an overnight, but not sure I would ever want to do it in one day. Well done!
gimpilator - Mar 18, 2010 12:22 am - Hasn't voted
Re: EpicThanks! You know it's an awesome area then. I think it would have been easier for us if we hadn't been facing fresh snow and horrific post-holing on the way down.
DenaliBoundCB - Apr 1, 2010 7:54 pm - Hasn't voted
epicYa we were the other group that got turned around.
larryN - Jul 30, 2010 1:39 pm - Voted 10/10
Well done, Sargent!Great report, Adam, I just came across this getting ready for a TWO day trip this Sun-Mon. Your river crossing at the end reminded me of a trip up Russian Butte last June. We had problems finding the Rainy Cr log crossing at night, and I would have gladly walked through it, but needed to find the log to get back on route.
gimpilator - Aug 2, 2010 6:19 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Well done, Sargent!Thanks! Eldorado is a very rewarding peak and one of the most fun climbs I've ever had the pleasure of. I hope your trip goes very well. Make sure to let me know the story when you get back. It's funny you mention Russian Butte because a couple of my friends just had a failed attempt a couple weeks ago.
Adam
larryN - Aug 4, 2010 1:00 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Well done, Sargent!We had a great climb! The boulder field and 6150' gully were both better than I expected. We setup a 6400' base camp on snow, with low visibility and wind. Then the skies cleared Sun night, and made for excellent crampon conditions. We watched the sun come up near the 7500' high camp, and enjoyed some amazing views!