Aneto Climber's Log
[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
|Dan Bailey||Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: summer 1995|
|Posted Feb 10, 2004 11:20 am|
|altpope||Route Climbed: Normal Route - Besurta - Reclusa - Portillon Superior - Aneto Date Climbed: 18 September 2003|
|First attempt on 28 August 03 failed due to mistaken Portillon Superior for Portillon Inferior. Ended up in a difficult position on the ridge and had to abort.|
This time I started at La Besurta at 6:30 after a taxi lift from Benasque. At 50 euros, I found it quite steep, even steeper than my climb!
Extremely lucky with the weather, didn't need the torch as the moon and stars gave loads of light. On the west face of Portillon ridge found loads of patches of fresh snow which slowed me down. Thin layer of snow covered the glacier as well. Snow stopped few meters before Paso de Mahoma. Paso de Mahoma wasn't difficult at all maybe harder when it isn't dry. Don't let it intimidate you and go for it! There is only one portion of less than 2 meters slightly exposed, but again it is a horizontal flat slab of rock of considerable width, almost 1 meter!!!
The way back takes a long time as well, mainly because of the boulders you have to cross between the glacier and Portillon Superior. Stay on the left side of the boulders (west) as it is easy to miss Portillon Superior. Also, I tried the direct route down from Portillon Superior hoping it would take less than the ridge to Portillon Inferior and then down. Well, I don't think you save any time going straight down, specially if there are patches of slippery snow!
|Posted Sep 24, 2003 11:26 am|
|Rob Plas||Route Climbed: Via La Renclusa Date Climbed: 04 August 2001|
|Climbed it solo, had a great time despite the language problems when encountering Spanish people up there.|
Weather was good, but a heavy overcloud was coming in from France.
The trip down was long and heavy due to the large bouldefield there.
|Posted Sep 16, 2003 1:29 pm|
|Lobelia||Route Climbed: ruta normal Date Climbed: 25-07-1998|
|Como era habitual en aquél entonces, éramos los últimos en llegar a la cima y también los últimos en abandonarla. Pero fué magnífico porque las nubes que nos acompañaron durante todo el día, se disipararon y pudimos, en la cima, disfrutar del paisaje.|
|Posted Sep 6, 2003 3:58 pm|
|Ruud van Koten||Route Climbed: Portillón Superior, Normal Date Climbed: 27 july 2003|
|Took the bus (Benasque-Besurta) at Camping Aneto at 4:30 AM|
Reached the top at 12:30.
Just missed the bus (17:00uur) and had to wait and drink beer at Besurta (snackbar) till 19:00.
Nice day, Great Climb.
Don’t forget that the descent is long….
|Posted Aug 14, 2003 7:07 am|
|flearreta||Route Climbed: Normal via Portillon Superior Date Climbed: July 23, 2003|
|We started where the bus left us at La Besurta at 8:20 AM. We missed Portillon Superior pass to the right and ended crossing Glaciar de la Maladeta halfway until we recognized our mistake. We retreated our footsteps and finally found Portillon Superior. There was no snow or need of crampons until you reach the Aneto glacier on the other side of Portillon at this time of the year. We find snow until a few meters below the summit. Tips: 1) If you are doing this climb in the summer, it is definitely recommended that you make this climb during weekdays, since waiting to cross the Paso de Mahoma on weekends can be a frustrating experience. When we did it on a Wednesday there was no waiting time at all; 2) The descent is not much less time consuming than the ascent, as crossing the glacier implies a long traverse of the masif both ways. Normally, it should take around 5 hours to ascend from La Besurta and 3-4 hours to descend it back; 3) You don't save time by sleeping in Refugio de La Renclusa the night before the ascent as this is located at 2100 m., just 30 minutes above the bus stop at La Renclusa; 4) After you cross Portillon Superior you can find water in the first portion of the glacier moraine in various places.|
|Posted Jul 28, 2003 5:23 am|
|Hector Garcia Hevia||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: May 2nd, 1998|
|We were about 50 people from G.M Texu. The bus wouldn't go any further than Hospital de Benasque due to a late snowfall, so we had to walk all the way up to La Besurta and then the Renclusa Hut, snowing heavily during the last hour. The morning after the snow was knee deep when we started around 6 am, but the weather was giving us a break. We didn't realized till we were at 3250 m that we had missed the Portillon Superior in the thick fog and we had headed for the Maladeta instead... 400 meters extra digging a trench in the snow, yuk! so we went down to the Portillon, across the glacier and summitted the Aneto around noon. The Paso de Mahoma was kind of hairy in fresh snow... fortunately the fog did not let us see the bottom of the cliff. The weather went rotten again very quickly and the way back was another 5 hours under the snow, except for the lucky few that had gone on skis. 30+ of us reached the summit.|
|Posted Apr 30, 2003 6:06 am|
|Julio||Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: Sept. 2000|
|It was a sunny and beautiful that weekday of september.|
|Posted Mar 22, 2003 5:20 am|
|TodoVertical||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: June 2000|
|My brother and I climbed Aneto in order to get in shape for that summer campaign in the Peruvian Andes. We were followed by our Alaskan Malamute friend "Nuka". We had a beautiful day.|
|Posted Dec 4, 2002 3:16 pm|
|Charles Garrett||Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 6 August 2002|
|Long - and busy - climb. Stayed at the hotel below the refugio. Left at 0430, past the refugio and on to Portale superior. Interminable field of large boulders then glacier and finally the slightly exposed Paso de Mahoma. Plenty of space on top - good views of wild Pyrenees mountains. Back the same way. Long day - 11-12 hours in all. Worth taking a view on the weather as you cross the Portale - if bad weather brews up up you can get stuck on the wrong side as the Portale could be difficult to negotiate in fog/big wind. You can't start this early enough to avoid the crowds, but don't be put off.|
|Posted Nov 25, 2002 6:04 am|
|eza||Route Climbed: Portillón superior y glaciar de Aneto Date Climbed: 25 July 1998|
|Due to a lousy physical form, I withdrew from the Collado de Coronas (3200 m). Have to get back there some day...|
|Posted Nov 22, 2002 9:29 am|
|bruno.carbonne||Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: July 1980|
|Long day from the Hospice de France to the summit and back|
|Posted Aug 12, 2002 10:29 am|
|jeroni||Route Climbed: Corredor Estasen Date Climbed: 13 april 2001|
|Muy bonita ascensión, con gran ambiente, pero mucho frio por la noche (-17ºC)|
|Posted Jul 31, 2002 4:48 am|
|lisu||Route Climbed: Normal route from La Renclusa Ref. Date Climbed: August 25 1999|
|Only a piece of advice: wake up very early to avoid crowds ...|
|Posted Jun 19, 2002 1:57 pm|
|Diego Sahagún||Route Climbed: Portillón Inferior Date Climbed: 5 May 2002|
|The high temperatures and a storm stopped us from reaching the summit of Aneto. Neither we couln't tread its glacier because of the soft snow on the SE slopes of Portillón Inferior. But we enjoyed a nice first day of mountaineer skiing. We started at dawn from Besurta and suffered til Portillón Inferior, then we went backwards. Due to the inminent cold front we surpassed Portillón Superior pushing forward to Glaciar de la Maladeta (my altimeter showed 3.030 m). We descended in the fog firstly and then snowing a little, the snow was too soft: you sank almost the leg in some places (without skis). Finally we reached the parking after more than 9 hours of suffering.|
|Posted May 8, 2002 4:59 am|
|Diego Sahagún||Route Climbed: Portillón Inferior Date Climbed: 28 July 1994|
|My father and me started early in the morning from Refugio de la Renclusa. We ascended almost directly to Portillón Inferior under a burning sun, descended to Glaciar del Aneto. Then we crossed this glacier, reached the slope of Aneto, climbed it on rotten snow towards Paso de Maoma. Climbed through it and summited, started the descent and finished at Refugio de la Renclusa in the twilight (after 11 hike-hours). We get lost a little bit when descending to this hut.|
|Posted Apr 30, 2002 2:58 pm|