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5394 Hits
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75.53% Score
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6 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Route Type:
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Sport Climbing, Toprope |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.12a (YDS) |
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Grade:
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I |
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Overview
A truly awesome one move wonder route. This route resides on the 'Animal World Wall' and climbs up a perfect face with even better holds. The route is moderately overhanging and has clean fall potential, so go for the onsight and give it your all! A perfect route for those venturing into the 12 range, this line can be climbed most of the day as it remains largely in the shade. A perfect outing for a few hours, the route is surrounded by several other classic and fun climbs that can fill an entire day. The route was first FAed by Ken Trout and Rick Leitner.
The route follows the red line, and the black X's mark the bolts and anchors.Getting There
Getting to the 'Animal World Wall' is pretty easy. Park in the same pullout as is going to Boulderado (8.5 miles up the canyon on the left hand side), and walk up to the base of 'Boulderado'. From the left (west) side of 'Boulderado', follow a trail straight up the hill until it branches right. A little bit loose sometimes, it is not very strenuous and can easily be done in Chacos. Take the right turn, and it will lead you above and behind 'Boulderado' until you see the Lower Animal World cliff up on your left.Please be VERY careful not to knock loose rocks down to the highway below and over 'Boulderado'.
Route Description
An amazing and beautiful climb, this route is the farthest left (west) route on the west buttress of the 'Animal World Wall'. Although hard to see on the approach due to trees, the climb is easy to spot due to well chalked holds that go up its face.
Just below the deadpoint to the sloper crux of the route. Some easy slab climbing leads to mid-10-ish moves higher on the face before the overhang. Some fairly burly moves and good feet will see you to the sloper rail on the bulge, and some good footwork will help pull the crux bulge.
Beginning
Middle
CruxAfter the crux, the route finishes with some 11 slab and face climbing to the anchors. 6 draws for the bolts and 2 for the anchor. Perfect rock with amazing holds for approximately 60 feet.
Go go gadget deadpoint! If you choose to lead and cannot finish, walk around and rap from the tree above to retrieve gear. This rap can also be used to set up a TR for the line.
Heel hook beta?
Feet below the roof beta?