asmrz - Dec 3, 2020 8:25 am - Voted 10/10
North-East Ridge of DhaulagiriThanks for posting this. The obvious ridge in the picture is the NE Ridge of Dhaulagiri 1. It was the first 8,000 meter peak attempted, but last one to be climbed (in 1960) by this route. Wonderful high altitude mountaineering route.
Our 1994 Southern California group made the third American ascent of the route, so this picture brings back memories. Cheers, Alois.
Silvia Mazzani - Dec 4, 2020 6:23 am - Voted 10/10
Re: North-East Ridge of DhaulagiriHi Alois,
I guess the ridge climbed by your 1994 expedition is the left edge in the picture, but for my personal information I ask you to confirm this. In fact in the picture i can see three edges: one on the right, one on the left and one in the middle of the wall.
Thank you and have a nice day.
Silvia
Pajahoral - Dec 4, 2020 10:04 am - Hasn't voted
Re: North-East Ridge of DhaulagiriIn my opinion the NE ridge is in the middle of the wall. Paja
Silvia Mazzani - Dec 5, 2020 6:11 am - Voted 10/10
Re: North-East Ridge of DhaulagiriThanks, Paja. Let's wait the answer by asmrz!
asmrz - Dec 6, 2020 2:32 pm - Voted 10/10
Paja is rightSilvia and all, the NE ridge is the central, slightly left curving ridge (at the top) of the three ridges that you can see on the peak (in this photo). The left skyline ridge is the route the Americans tried in 1969 and almost all members were swept to their deaths in a avalanche.on the east glacier. That steep left ridge not only looks, but is way much harder and I'm not sure that it was ever climbed (not sure about that, but maybe Japanese team much later??). On the right side ridge are two routes, one of them put up by Russian team in the late 80s or so. All of the existing routes are very good from mountaineering point of view. The regular route is about 45 degree ice, can be done without many fixed ropes and is a delight for two people teams in semi-alpine style. .
Silvia Mazzani - Dec 7, 2020 12:32 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Paja is rightThank you very much for the comprehensive information!
asmrz - Dec 6, 2020 2:47 pm - Voted 10/10
Just a bit more infoJust wanted to add, the huge face between the left and the NE ridge is the site of Tomas Humar incredible solo climb in 1999. That was, then, most likely the hardest Himalayan effort to date. I saw his slide presentation and it was almost impossible to believe. The pictures (he took them himself)
were out of this world. Vertical ice climbing, 5.11 rock, not much pro and being there alone.
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