Attacked by Cotopaxi

Into rough air

Tough but exciting climb. Hired guide for first time in my life, Gustavo
(the shadow) who had summited hundreds of previous attempts. Gustavo led
first rope team with my long time partner, Jack, and Natalie, a beginner
on snow. Two on our rope, myself and Dave. Dave had limited snow/ice experience; but as a retired Florida policeman with triathlon-tough mudder experience, as tough as nails.
We left refugio around 1:30, last of about 12 teams. New snow was
down to about 100 meters from refugio, so walking was good for about
an hour to the glacier. We put on crampons and faced 15 mph winds with
some snow or sleet. Dave and I started roped about 10 meters apart, but
had to shorten to 5 because of rope snagging on ice. All gear became
iced and stayed frozen until halfway down several hours later. Unlocking
biners would have been nice, and maybe a small gear bag attached to
harness. Gustavo used a kiwi coil to lead and an ice axe with rope
directly around it for belaying(he braced kneeling with one crampon
dug in below). I'm sure he had gear in his large pack but that's all he used om the trip, very efficient and probably the only way to move in
those conditions. The route through the ice fields and crevasses dropped
down into a bergshrund, then wound around to the far left. We climbed up
a spiral ramp 5 meters onto a long, horizontal surface just below the
large, upper bergshrund,then traversed right easily for maybe 300 meters.
We left ice field and skirted right and up for about an hour, travers-
ing 38 degree snow fields on new snow with a narrow 6 inch trail, constantly looking down a slick surface to crevasses or thick white
nothingness(visibility poor, still high winds and frozen snow). We
began to pass young experienced teams, who were returning or waivering
in storm, saying(in Spanish) that the winds were too high and no visibility.
Others were fatigued or vomitting from the altitude.

On to summit

We finally arrved at last ice wall 100 meters below summit, rested
on 20 degree slope while two teams went up and one came down. The ice slope
was about 12 meters of moderate snow/ ice, but I noted that stepping back
at the base put one's feet on a 40 degree slope, hidden by the visibility.
I was planning to lead and protect this section, but Dave scrambled up
and I quickly followed. At that altitude, it sapped my strength.
I struggled up to the summit, wanting to sleep for 8 hours. We took
a few pics, refreshed and started down with frozen gear and sunglasses.
Two hours later we cleared the glacier just as the snow softened
and became unstable. I glissaded the final snow field to refugio.
Note: 12 days acclimitization with 2 doses 250 mg diamox or
17 days, final 3 sleeping at 12,000 feet, plus refugio required.
Seriously, you can find tons of world class climbers puking their
guts out, some at the refugio, trying to climb after 6 to 8 days
acclimitization. Second note, you don't need 60 plus ounces
of gear on each foot(it is the equator). Slightly insulated
hiking boots with extra neoprene or wool socks, possibly foot
warmers and ultralite gaitors/cranpons are much more likely to get
you to summit.

Park entrance difficult

Until last week park closed at 3p.m., but you could talk your way in. Now
they claim you must be with an approved guide or tour, or have neatly printed reservations at somewhere like Tambopaxi Lodge(where Gustavo works)
to enter. Insane. They wouldn't accept I-phone confirmation.