East Face route to North(false) summit Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2011
Due to late snow melt this year we walked snow from Hidden Lake all the way to the east side gully, where we finally found some solid rock. Going back next year to try the real(south) summit.
Glacier Mountaineering Society outing. Took the standard route to the north summit. Hiked the ridge over and looked at going over to the south summit but decided there wasn't enough time. Over all great day for climbing in Glacier.
Good introduction to climbing in Glacier. Nothing too technically difficult but the exposure and shit-rock means you ought to respect it anyway. Killer views (when I wasn't in a cloud).
Usually climb the SE Gulley (fairly prominent gulley quite a way to the left of the big cleft in the E face) every year as soon as the road opens up - - ski in to the base of the gulley, ditch the gear and straight up. The gulley is steep, up to 70 degrees + in spots. It is good spring training.
Route Climbed: East Face Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2008
Easy, fun climb to the top via Hidden Lake. Nothing worse than class 3 encountered. We just aimed left of the large rift in the east face of the mountain and found an enjoyable way up. Wonderful view of the park, including Sperry Glacier Basin to the south.
7/23/2000 CLIMBED E FACE ROUTE WITH GMS LED BY JERRY LUDGREN DESCENDED NEAR THE COL BETWEEN DRAGONS TAIL AND BEARHAT AND THENCE DOWN TO HIDDEN LAKE AND OUT
One summit was in great weather, the next in heavy mist and light rain. I preferred the latter, which was a very still, quiet adventure, with my head in the coulds and completely cut off from the world! One of the best views anywhere!
Route Climbed: SE Face Date Climbed: July 31, 2004
Many thanks to Blair & Peggie from New Hampshire who I joined up with en route, helped with route finding, and were wonderful company. We all enjoyed the climb and marvelled at the views.