Route Climbed: West Face Date Climbed: April 3, 2004
Well after abusing my brand new truck in the dark we stumbled up the gulch and slept under a full moon before beginning our 6:30 am departure.
It was a great climb! The Lost Rivers to the west were snow covered and the expanse of the Lemhi's is very impressive.
Broke my camera! So can't showcase any of the pictures. If you are climbing early season crampons, axe, and snowshoes are essential. The chutes had some high exposure areas and the mixed climbing was great.
Directions to the mountain are tough in the dark, but you can see a canyon to the north that you head straight up. We made it to about 7600 feet, before the road changed direction.
After searching for the trailhead for over an hour in our vehicle we finally found it, getting in late friday night. Started out saturday morning a little before 7 am. Snow started within 1/2 mile of the start up the slopes towards the west ridge. Some postholing required, and finally put on snowshoes to take us up to the west ridge. Snow was firm enough to support snowshoes for the mostpart.
The class 3 summit tower was a mix of snow and rock, with the exposure increased in some spots due to snow chutes, where a slip could have been bad. Axe and crampons a must.
By the time we were decending down the slopes of the west ridge in the afternoon, the snow had softened so that snowshoes were useless and we were sinking into our thighs. Glissading sections made it faster.
Took us ~5 hours to summit and ~3 hours to descend. Great climb!