Page Type: | Route |
---|---|
Lat/Lon: | 46.52207°N / 12.01891°E |
Season: | Spring, Summer |
Time Required: | Half a day |
Rock Difficulty: | 5.11b (YDS) |
Difficulty: | 6A+ |
Number of Pitches: | 8 |
Grade: | VI |
Beautiful climbing route in Cortina d'Ampezzo - Italy, in a spectacular setting of the Dolomites. This route on the Torre Piccola di Falzarego is very varied, with corners, slabs and traverses almost always on great rock.
Approach: In about 30 minutes we reach the base of the face near the Falzarego Pass by trail from Rifugio Strobel.
Length 1 An army piton at the base marks the start of the route. Climb straight up on the grey slab to a small crack on yellow rock (cemented pitons), then veer slightly to the right on easy rocks up to the belay. 40 meters, 5a – 5b level of difficulty
Length 2 From the belay, tackle a yellow corner, climbing with care; then cross to the right, continuing on black vertical rock including a very challenging move. Reaching the end of the length, make sure to follow the splits to the belay: do not climb along the couloir, the rock is extremely friable! 50 meters, 5b-6a level of difficulty
Length 3 Nice overhanging face in the first section, then easy rocks up to the belay with the cemented piton of the Via delle Guide, where we suggest you stop to avoid too much friction on the rope. 18 meters, 6a level of difficulty
Length 4 Along vertical grey slab at first, followed by slightly holding slab up to the belay. 20 meters, 5a level of difficulty
Length 5 Straight up on nice grey slightly holding slab 30 meters 4b level of difficulty
Length 6 Spectacular crossing on yellow rock that follows a horizontal crack later climbing on a slightly overhanging vertical. 35 meters, 5b – 6a+ level of difficulty
Length 7 Climb straight up from the belay, then face a long, exposed traverse up to the spur on the tower. Belay on a cemented piton. 35 meters, 5b level of difficulty
Length 8 The summit of the Torre Piccola di Falzarego is reached on easy rocks. 25 meters, level of difficulty 2
60 meters rope 13 quickdraws Slings and cords