Route Climbed: from the South Date Climbed: Summer, early eighties
A friend, who shall remain anonymous, but whose initials are Derek Franzen, led up a steep, rotten gully. Protection was scarce, and he was getting run-out and strung-out when he finally placed a chock. Being half-wrapped around a rock, he had to clip it to his rope blindly, and from below, we could see that he'd just clipped the tail of his knot, so the carabiner simply dropped off. When we kindly pointed the situation out to Derek, he had already climbed out of reach of the chock and his reply involved something about having conjugal relations with it. I believe we got our summit on a subsequent trip.
"As an adolescent I aspired to lasting fame, I craved factual certainty, and I thirsted for a meaningful vision of human life - so I became a scientist. This is like becoming an archbishop so you can meet girls."