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Borah Peak Climber's Log

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easleygoneRoute Climbed: SW Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 1989  Sucess!
Climbing partner, Pete Simpson and myself

started about 8AM and finished around 4PM.

Bypassed Chicken Out Ridge by dropping down

onto north face of ridge and traversing to snow-

chute and climbing up to the gap. A long climb

upwards of almost 6000 feet! Great views from

the top.
Posted Apr 12, 2005 11:24 pm

mr kieranRoute Climbed: Standard Route Date Climbed: September 2001  Sucess!
Climbed solo. Got to trailhead early evening and had an hour or so to myself before the hordes arrived. Left first thing in the morning and had the summit to myself for over an hour. Not difficult, but this beast will test your endurance for sure.
Posted Mar 19, 2005 6:17 pm

amcfarreRoute Climbed: chicken out ridge Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2002  Sucess!

amcfarre

Snow free climb in mid-August, 2002. The chicken-out ridge was an enjoyable exercise and I avoided the climber trails around some of the scrambles and stayed on the top of the ridge for the whole climb up after the notch. This provided some really nice views to the east, and more interesting climbing. I used the trails on the way back down from the summit and around point 11898.



Full report and photos
Posted Feb 17, 2005 10:39 am

csnafzgerRoute Climbed: main route Date Climbed: September 11, 2004  Sucess!

csnafzger

Clear, sunny, cool day. Rather crowded at the summitt, but all in all, a great way to spend a day.
Posted Feb 7, 2005 4:56 pm

Steve GruhnRoute Climbed: Southwest Ridge Date Climbed: June 12, 2000  Sucess!
Climbed in fog and snow.
Posted Jan 26, 2005 10:25 pm

brendonRoute Climbed: Uphill Date Climbed: Mid-Sept 1997  Sucess!

brendon

Climbed while still in high school as a Boy Scout. Good day, don't remember much.
Posted Dec 16, 2004 10:47 pm

garchovRoute Climbed: S.W. Ridge Date Climbed: August 18, 1996  Sucess!

garchov

After a failed attempt in 1994 due to following the wrong trail (a cattle trail) from the parking area, my 2 brothers and I (one from Ohio and I and the other from Boise at the time) decided to try again. This time we got an early start and on the right trail! We came upon a solo hiker at about the 9500 contour and invited him along with us. The going got easier above the tree line and the trail was obvious untill we got near "chicken out" where my youngest brother and I opted to go to the right of the ridgeline. The rock was much more stable there but with route finding and exposure. Upon reaching the crux and meeting up with the others we had to wait for a decending party to climb up. The climb down the crux was fairly easy and the the snow on the bridge was old and hard with a walkable trail worn into it. From here to the saddle below the summit block the wind was cold and howling but when we reached the summit it was amazingly calm and beautiful. We spent about 30 minutes on the summit signing the regester, taking pictures and video and just enjoying the view. On the descent we all took the north side of "chicken out" and I think it is much more rotten than the south. The hike down below the tree line was grueling on the knees and tricky footing in places but we made it back to our trucks near 9:00 pm. The climb totaled 12 hours. I plan on summiting Borah again in 2005 to take a new register befitting of the highest point in Idaho.
Posted Dec 16, 2004 10:18 am

craghagRoute Climbed: standard route Date Climbed: June 30, 2001  Sucess!

craghag

A challenging hump with some some scrambling and spectacular panoramas! I about chickened out on the ridge but in the end it was better than a roller coaster!
Posted Oct 7, 2004 11:15 am

Steve BallRoute Climbed: Standard Route Date Climbed: October 2, 2004  Sucess!

Steve Ball

Arrived at the trailhead friday evening and found one car in the parking lot. I went about setting up camp and gathering firewood. At about 8:30 the owners of the car returned and drove off, I was alone. Woke up the next morning and started out at around 6am under the light of the moon. As I expected the trail started to climb right away and by about an hour later I was breaking through the tree line. I could see that there was quite a bit of snow along shicken out ridge and up to the summit but I pressed on. I made it to the start of the sirts scrabbling sections around 8:30am and because of the cold and lack of gloves I had to stop constantly to warm up my hands. Chicken out ridge was a difficult portion of the hike. The combination of cold, a lot of exposure, route finding, and icy hard packed snow made the going quite slow. After about an hour I made to just above the snow bridge and started looking for a spot to down climb. Going down this in the cold proved challenging but soon I was at the snow bridge and on my way again. There was a good trail through the snow over the bridge and that continued as a traverse just below the next hump in the trail towards the base of the summit. The traverse was all hardpacked snow and ice. An ice axe and crampons through this section would have made it a lot faster. After taking my time across the traverse I found my self at the base of the summit. The trail up was covered in hardpacked snow. After taking my time up through this section I made it to the top at around 11am. It had taken 5 hours to reach the top. The view from the summit was amazing. After spending half an hour on top I started to make my way down. The going was slow at first but thesnow was softening up and I was able to move a lot faster. I passed through chicken out ridge with no problem and soon was back on the trail again. I passed by a father and his two sons on their way up about 2 hours from the summit. It was aroun 1pm and asked them if they were going to the top and I told them about condition and then continued on my way. I moved quickly down the mountain and by three I was at the trailhead. 3 1/2 hours to come down and my feet were glad to see the car! Next stop craters of the moon. It was an amzing hike. With less snow it would have been a lot easier I think, but the snow just made it more interesting.
Posted Oct 5, 2004 5:00 pm

woodstriderRoute Climbed: Southwest Ridge Date Climbed: August 22, 2004  Sucess!

woodstrider

Well, after looking at maps and reading up about Borah Peak I have finally gone and done it!

I found that Chicken-out Ridge was a short section of yellow rock that had a path that was easy to follow. The 15-20 foot step, ditto. No ice or snow on the snow field.

I signed in on a scrap of paper found in an ammo can. How long have the antlers been there? Not great weather- but I didn't care- I came a long way (NYC) to climb this peak and I did!
Posted Sep 7, 2004 5:01 pm

AndinistalocoRoute Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: 1997?  Sucess!

Andinistaloco

Really fun climb! Steep and with great views as well... look for the earthquake fault while you're on top.

Posted Aug 27, 2004 6:33 pm

Andrew McKenzieRoute Climbed: Southwest Ridge Date Climbed: August 13, 2004  Sucess!

Andrew McKenzie

Well, what can I say? This climb was significant in effort mainly because the 3.5 mile distance leads you to believe that it is a short trip. We got started fairly late by mountaineering standards, 10:00 am. My friend Andy Peterson and I pushed hard and with a big push from the saddle below the summit, managed to reach the top in 3 hours. The real teeth of this climb dont bear themselves until you start down. The loose rock at the top can make for an exciting descent, and the sheer steepness of the trail below treeline will make your knees and ankles scream at you for days to come. Overall this was a good climb that looks worse than it really is, (ie. don't chicken out on chicken out!) It took us 5 1/2 hours round trip, with decent summit time for resting. A great day hike for locals or travelers and all but those with significant joint problems, (and I do mean knees and such!), should be able to make it with only energy lost. Cheers!!
Posted Aug 22, 2004 5:21 pm

paclimberRoute Climbed: Southwest "chicken out" Ridge Date Climbed: July 26, 2004  Sucess!

paclimber

I absolutely loved this climb. You will too, if you like to scramble over rock. Be sure to pull out the Borah Peak tapestry from within the black PVC tube for your summit photos.
Posted Aug 2, 2004 1:35 pm

kdonaldsonRoute Climbed: Southwest Ridge Date Climbed: June 13, 2004  Sucess!

kdonaldson

Climbed with Brandon, Kurt, Mark and Dave. The weather conditions were overcast at the start when we left at 5 AM, but as we went higher, conditions worsened with visibility about 80-100 ft consistently and very windy, above ~ 10,000 ft. Above the knife edge on chicken out ridge at some point, I checked the temp and it was 32 degrees, BUT 8 degrees with the windchill! We followed the ridge all the way to the summit due to low visability. Snow (on the ground) started a few hundred feet above the tree line, just after you begin encountering class 3 rock on the ridge. Most of the exposed ridges were still corniced. With the weather conditions, along with mixed 3rd class snow, rock and some ice, it took us ~ 6.5 hours to summit. After a short break on the summit, we were just about to descend, when the clouds started to break and within about 10 minutes the clouds had move past enought to give us great views, which made the effort well worth it. It continued to clear as we descended, and was sunny after about .5 hours for the remainder of the descent. The entire trip including breaks took us ~ 12 hours. Awsome challenging trip!



Posted Jun 15, 2004 12:11 pm

Scott WesemannRoute Climbed: Chicken out Date Climbed: 9/01 and 7/02  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2002

Scott Wesemann

This is a very fun hike and Chicken out is a fun scramble. I suggest staying right on top of the ridge. There are some class 3 moves and the exposure is really exciting. The snowfield was not all that bad when we were there. Be prepared for the steep descent. We had perfect weather on both occasions. (See trip report)
Posted Jun 9, 2004 11:37 pm

Craig NielsenRoute Climbed: Regular Route Date Climbed: 8-30-04  Sucess!

Craig Nielsen

Great Day for climbing! A wonderful route and a great mountain. One more High point for me! Yeah!
Posted Feb 27, 2004 1:33 am

phillinleyRoute Climbed: Southwest Ridge Date Climbed: May 12, 2003  Sucess!

phillinley

Not a very fun mountain to be on once the sun hit. The snow was murder to get through . During the climb I cursed myself many times for not climbing this thing during the summer months. But the semi-solitude was nice with just me and two other climbers on the peak. Definately a climb that requires an ice axe in crampons even in the late spring.
Posted Jan 29, 2004 12:48 am

pdeangeliRoute Climbed: Southwest Ridge Date Climbed: July 25, 2002

pdeangeli

Packed parking lot -- as expected -- with people arriving as late as 1 a.m. and others starting out at 2:30 a.m. Our group of 9 started at 5:15 and took our sweet time up to the gorgeous summit views and back for a 10-hour round trip. Weather was perfect, and our group leader Mike made sure all made it without incident. Steep, dusty, busy trail.
Posted Sep 3, 2003 2:33 pm

sjbags13Route Climbed: Standard Date Climbed: August 23, 2003  Sucess!
We left at 4:30 am with headlamps on. Had just rained the night before so it was a very cool morning. Totally clear skies with just a little wind. As we cleared the tree line the wind picked up and went from a little chilly to very cold, wind chill had to below freezing. Enjoyed chicken out ridge extremely, a very fun challenge. No snow where the snow bridge was supposed to be. I was rather disappointed about that. Heading up the face of the peak was a little scary at times. The rain from the night before had dropped a little snow, but we made it to the top unscathed. We, along with a partner we found during the climb up, were the first to summit that day just shortly after 9:00. It felt so good to get out of the shadow of the mountain and feel some sun on us. We stayed on top for a little over an hour and then headed back down. Luckily the sun had started to melt some of the ice that was on the face from the rainstorm the night before. I took the video camera and got some excellent footage. A walking stick or trekking poles is highly recommended. Found a few people turning around at chicken out. Overall a wonderful climb on a beautiful day.
Posted Aug 29, 2003 9:57 pm

ZarnRoute Climbed: STANDARD Date Climbed: 08/12/03  Sucess!

Zarn

Relentless and beautiful !! Views that rival or surpass any other N.A. peak. Not your standard walk up. On any given day, above the lower ridges you could be challanged to your maximum.



Be prepared as the route "feels" longer that the the 3.5 miles advertised. It is especially steep in the treeline and the summit block. There is no marked or standard route through the Chicken Out Ridge area. There are several "trails" in this zone that can lead you into various levels of high exposure and dead ends. In my opinion, stay on the high side of the ridge when ever possible.



Some would technically rate the climb at a 3.15. Do not let this be your generic guide, carry a length or at least 50' of rope to ease the exposure of exit and re-entry to Chicken Out Ridge to and from the summit block, especially if your are solo.



With all that being said, I can understand why many of the the 15 climbers I encountered on my summit day were on there second attempt.



Overall an amazing area and climb.



ENJOY!



Z1



Posted Aug 15, 2003 2:41 am

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