Been up Brass Balls several times now. Don't want to do the direct again until we get those three bolts removed and replaced with one good one. It is a wonderful move though, my third time doing it. If the 5.8 climbers would use the variation up the right side, they would find this route 10 times better than Birdland but such is life at Red Rock..they all crowd the same average quality routes.
Someone had recommended not worth doing past the first couple pitches...they must not have climbed the route. I led the whole route. The third pitch is good for the grade and the last pitch is the crux of the climb, a very fun roof pull on the best rock of the day. The second pitch is varnished, but a bit of a worrying lead on fractured jugs. Just have to be use to placing pro on such terrain. I went into the corner and double slung my pieces. The third pitch is a gem at 5.7. The last pitch is a gem at 5.9+. The first pitch is well protected at the crux. It is actually a decent route.
"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."