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Broken Top Climber's Log

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mcdonaldjoshFrom Todd Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2011
Green Lakes Trailhead was packed so I decided to start at the trail at Todd Lake, which eventually met up with the Green Lakes trail.
Posted Dec 13, 2015 1:59 pm

PTMcGThe Summer of Bend  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 31, 2014
After having spent decades of winters in Sunriver to enjoy the skiing at Mt Bachelor, my wife and I spent our first full summer there, our so-called "Summer of Bend." We were blown away by the lakes, streams and trails of the central Cascade and spent numerous days hiking and scrambling through the southern expanse of the 3 Sisters Wilderness Area; Moraine Lake, Ice Lake, Fall Creek, Soda Creek and the Green Lakes area. The South Sister is the 3rd highest summit in Oregon and the focus for 90+% of summiteers within the wilderness. On some days, while I glassed the south ridge of South Sister I could see a continuous ant thread of climbers massing up and down from that summit. It is a beautiful summit often swaddled in moustache clouds. It is quite different, to the east on Broken Top. There is an official summit for those that need one, but even more, there are three massifs that form the mountain. Each is serrated with spectacular pinnacles and challenging routes, often on highly friable rock, leading to their precipitous points. If you enjoy the isolation of remote routes and the challenge of getting up those, you will love approaches from within the crater. However, BE WARNED, these are not for the faint of heart as exposures, slides and the frequent clapping of rock-fall abound. Be prepared and willing to take multiple trips upon these spires to learn the details of their singular approaches AND take protection as some of these routes can be free climbed but down climbing is out of the question. Be safe, breathe freely and enjoy the memories you make in your own Summer of Bend.
Posted Nov 1, 2014 11:40 am

Nick TurturaSo much fun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2014

Nick Turtura

This thing is just so much fun. This is the first time I've done it with so little snow. I finally found the scramble route to the left. We still went to the right and went up the crack on the rock band. Keep in mind that this is a low snow year and the scramble route is not there if there is any snow around the left corner of the rock band.

Blue bird day!
Posted Sep 22, 2014 1:28 am

OutdoorpartnerBack side only
Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2013


I don't deserve to sign the real climbers log because I only climbed the back side behind the lake. I totally botched the hike in, turning before Green Lakes on the trail sign that said "Broken Top" instead of continuing onward. By the time I realized the error it was too late. It was beautiful up there but the threat of thunderstorms was too great to hang out and enjoy the views. From Green Lakes trailhead it was still an 11 hour day.
Posted Aug 16, 2013 1:01 am

triyodaBeautiful Day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013


Lakes were gorgeous, summit was great. Definitely a little bit of a pucker factor on the crux step, at least for a piker like me. Made a sling out of a 30 ft length of webbing and slung it through the rappel sling for the down climb. Yes, I am a wimp.
Posted Jul 7, 2013 11:41 pm

Troy BNW Ridge from Green Lakes  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2013

Troy B

Climbed directly up using the crack on the summit block. Had the peak to myself in the early morning, excellent views!
Posted Jul 7, 2013 12:35 am

splattskiBend Glacier/ NW ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2013


We climbed from Three Creeks Lake and Tam McArthur Rim. Beautiful approach, awesome climb, perfect weather.
But long.
Saw no one else all day.
Trip report
Posted Jun 2, 2013 9:17 pm

SirburtmundAwesome climb up 11 o'clock couloir  Sucess!


Awesome climb, maybe my favorite ever. It really pushed me to a new level. Now I just want to climb hard stuff!
Posted Jun 2, 2013 1:55 pm

cyffredinolGreat climb!  Sucess!


Definitely tested my fear of heights! Thanks to Magnus for leading and Andee for protecting the route.
Posted May 20, 2013 1:30 am

wildernessprestonNW Ridge Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2011


My first time up Broken Top. Fantastic climb, the exposure and summit block were not nearly as bad as I expected. Awesome scree descent from the summit. I love this mountain.
Posted Apr 4, 2013 9:16 pm

wildernessprestonNW Ridge Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2012


Second time up Broken Top via green lakes and NW Ridge. Great climb, my favorite in Oregon! The exposure at the top is not all that bad, just be careful of that infamous, lose, cascadian rock.
Posted Apr 4, 2013 9:14 pm

Dan WinterNW Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2012

Dan Winter

The drive up to the Broken Top trail head is one of the most scenic and roughest roads I have been on. This climb was more fun than I had expected.
Posted Sep 29, 2012 5:31 pm

Nick TurturaThe Best  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 26, 2011

Nick Turtura

By far my favorite mountain in Oregon. A little of everything.
Posted Jun 5, 2012 12:03 am

santanoniNW Ridge w/scree descent  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2011


The exposure at the top is not too bad, although magnified by its crumbling nature. The descent was quite fast going down the scree slopes. Green lakes were indeed green.
Posted Jan 13, 2012 11:49 am

RetroGearNW Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2011


Climbed the NW Ridge on a beautiful fall day with Dan & Jim Butler. Approached from Park Meadow trailhead and used Golden Lake as a base for two nights out.
We intentionally left the rope at the truck and I'm glad we did. You'll want to be comfortable down-climbing the rock band (it's fairly steep). Our way past the crux was perhaps 30 feet right of the 'wide crack' on the rock band. The wide crack looked quite solid, but seemed a little more 'exposed'.
Cat Walk was a stroll - just don't dally about and fall off.
Posted Sep 17, 2011 12:49 pm

jaxcharlieUnexpected Pleasure
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2010


I saw Broken Top in the distance after hiking up the Tam MacAurther Rim. So I hiked to it, but stopped short due to time contraints, and lack of sufficient food or water. I definitely want to come back!
Posted Jun 1, 2011 2:50 pm

OOGGreen lakes


Attempted the day after south sister, but just wasn't feeling up for it. Quit about 1/3 of the way up the ridge. I'll definitely come back for this one.
Posted Jan 27, 2011 11:47 pm

iquest4itScree slog from hell  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2002


This was a nice day hike, but the scree is nasty. I'd much rather do this one in the winter and ski down.
Posted Dec 25, 2010 2:57 pm

kraymesSouth Face Gully  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 9, 1990


Let's just call this Class 4 and be done with it. Hard to understand the YDS ratings between 5.1 and 5.3.
Posted Jul 2, 2010 2:39 pm

jcking2447Awesome adventure!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2009
Great hike in, scrambled up the NW ridge and scree skied down! so much fun!
Posted Dec 6, 2009 10:48 pm

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