Cascade Volcanoes > Broken Top > Climber's LogBroken Top Climber's Log
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| Bob Burd | NW Ridge  Date Climbed: Jun 9, 2006 | |
| Climbed the peak with Rick Kent, snow from the TH to the ridge. Clear after that. This route barely rates class 3, not sure how it got the tougher rating. Trip Report | |
| Posted Sep 20, 2006 9:42 pm | ||
| Karl Helser | Second time up... Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2006 | |
| Second time up this cool mountain. This is a good annual climb. Quick & scenic. 70 deg at the summit at 10:00am and 90 deg at the car. | |
| Posted Sep 11, 2006 7:31 pm | ||
| osatrik | SW ridge | |
| In 1967 my girl friend's brother (my future brother-in-law) and I approached the mountain from the road to the east, crossed the mouth of the crater to the SW ridge, and scrambled as high as we felt safe. | |
| Posted Aug 28, 2006 2:59 am | ||
| cascadetraveler | A late report/ excellent climb Date Climbed: Aug 17, 1997 | |
| WE camped at the crater ditch trailhead above todd lake. we spent a cool night out under the stars and awoke to a crisp clear morning. We made excellent time to the eastern edge of green lakes basin. we then headed towards northwest ridge. we gained the ridge headed upwards until we hit the 10 foot cliff band that requires some bouldering skills or in are case a fixed line set to overcome the obstacle. we then set another rope along the ramp to the summit for some extra security for are group. I really enjoyed this one, a cool looking mountain with spectacular views and some rock climbing as a bonus. | |
| Posted Aug 14, 2006 4:37 am | ||
| Turbo | Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2006 | |
| It was probably a bit foolish, but my three climbing partners and I summitted this one just after midnight. We climbed together all summer and because of this late night summit we dubbed ourselves the 'Midnight Mountaineers.' Slept on a small level spot a few hundred feet below the summit and awoke to a spectacular view of the Three Sisters and the Black Crater forest fire that was burning near Sisters Oregon at the time of our climb. | |
| Posted Aug 14, 2006 2:03 am | ||
| awilsondc | Route Climbed: NW Ridge via Todd Lake TH Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2006 | |
| Arrived at Green Lakes TH at 2:00 only to find it was closed for bridge installation. We decided to take the Todd Lake Trail as our alternate route which added 2.5 miles to the hike. We arrived at Green Lakes and set up camp at the furthest camp site (#28) and then began to scramble up the NW ridge. Once we reached the summit block I first looked right along the ledge for an easy route up. I didn't like it, so I looked left and found a pretty easy class 3/4 climb to the summit on the north side. We made the summit just as the sun was setting over the Three Sisters. After a few moments of enjoying the sunset, we descended via the west face scree fields. We finished the last 2 miles or so back to camp under one headlamp between the two of us. Great climb and great views from the summit. | |
| Posted Jul 31, 2006 5:07 am | ||
| Pawkala | South West Ridge Ski Date Climbed: May 16, 2006 | |
| Drove to west parking lot of Mount Bachelor and slept. Woke to glorious weather and firm snow. Left at 6:30 am and had a great ski tour in. The snow was soft enough by the time we got to the mountain to pack the skis and kick steps all the way up. Had great snow for the first half of the climb and then it turned to a scree climb. Summited by 12:30. Had a great ski down and toured back out in the hot weather and made it to the car just before the thunder storms at 4pm. GPS stated that the total distance was just shy of 6 miles each way. Make sure to take all the navagation tools you can, especially when there is still snow on the ground. Great trip. | |
| Posted May 19, 2006 12:36 am | ||
| cjwhat | Route Climbed: Northwest ridge Date Climbed: August 15, 2005 | |
| Followed group led by Emily. I was skeptical at first, but after exploring every possibility I concluded she actually knew the way. Brian_Jenkins told me it was easier than I thought. I was skeptical of that, too, but he was right. Parked at USFS Rd #380 Broken Top trailhead. | |
| Posted Aug 19, 2005 2:24 am | ||
| Bob Bolton | Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: August 7, 2005 | |
| See Karl Helser's report below. Karl, it was a pleasure to get better acquainted! Don and Ardith, it was great to finally climb something together. Let's do it again! -Bob | |
| Posted Aug 9, 2005 3:27 pm | ||
| Karl Helser | Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: August 7th 2005 | |
| I was honored to be able to summit this peak with a couple of real pros & veterans of Summit Post. Bob Bolton (RFBolton) and Don Nelson accompanied by his lovely girlfriend Ardith. We camped the night before, near and at the trailhead off of FR380/370. Four miles from the trailhead we took a scramble route straight towards the saddle in the northwest ridge bypassing the eastern shores of Green lakes. Once on the ridge the views of the surrounding area were awesome. (They were down below also.) We hit the summit block at about 11:00AM, leaving the trailhead at about 7:15AM. We believe we followed Brian Jenkins route up to the summit. Took a bit to find but once we found the route we were up in no time. We scree skied the descent down the western slope and scrambled back to the trail. Great day, excellent weather, and truly awesome company. | |
| Posted Aug 8, 2005 3:41 pm | ||
| mtnsavy | Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: 2000 | |
| 5.1?? The rock step is pretty solid and more in the realm of 4th Class climbing. | ||
| Posted Jun 21, 2005 2:07 am | ||
| Dennis Poulin | Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: 17 August 2002 | |
| I climbed the Northwest Ridge on a beautiful day. The short scramble up the summit block was overrated, just be careful about kicking rocks down on other climbers. | |
| Posted Dec 29, 2004 10:44 pm | ||
| Andinistaloco | Route Climbed: NW ridge Date Climbed: 11/2003 | |
| Good climb for winter, and a great summer climb if you don't have a full day. Watch the rock, though... it's pretty lousy. There are some incredible spires on the way up - I'd definitely like to go back and try some of them! | |
| Posted Aug 30, 2004 3:19 am | ||
| hkutuk | Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: August 8, 2004 | |
| This was a nice relaxing day climb with the best views of the Sisters area. There was one move on the nose that we protected, although going to the left of it would have been easier. Thanks to the early start had the summit to ourselves, but saw many people going up as we were heading down. | |
| Posted Aug 9, 2004 11:39 am | ||
| Don Nelsen | Route Climbed: Nw ridge Date Climbed: Sept. 21, 1979 | |
| My first summit of Broken Top and my second cascade volcano summit of many to come. Left Green Lakes camping area late afternoon after backpacking in for a weekend in the wilderness. With climbing buddies Dave, Scott, Rob and John we summited the north peak enjoying perfect weather and fantastic views. There had been a hard freeze a couple of days earlier so there were no mosquitoes anywhere. Fell in love with this most beautiful area of the cascades. dn | |
| Posted Jul 27, 2004 1:00 am | ||
| wolf | Date Climbed: July 1985 | |
| Broken top afforded some excellent views and bouldering opportunites. In late summer the summit can be reached without any gear save for a good pair of boots. | ||
| Posted Feb 26, 2004 12:05 pm | ||
| waspee | Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: 28 August 2003 | |
| Went up to Green Lakes, then up to the saddle, and reached the summit block. It is a little exposed and my partner didn't feel confortable at all. So we didn't summit. We had a really nice lunch on the 'terrace' then hiked back down. It was a beautiful sunny day but there were lots of smoke clouds in the distance. I'll go there again I think. | |
| Posted Dec 11, 2003 5:47 am | ||
| eckdoerry | Route Climbed: 11 Oclock Couloir Date Climbed: Dec. 29, 2000 | |
| An excellent winter climb, albeit quite demanding due to the long approach --- how hard this is depends entirely on the terrain. I attempted this once before in 1998 and we tried to climb the 3oclock couloir, but were stymied at the saddle by nasty double cornices all the way up the summit rim. The 11oclock couloir is gorgeous --- the nicest winter route in my opinion. Great views, exciting aesthetic climbing, and a super summit. | |
| Posted Nov 28, 2003 12:29 pm | ||
| cluck | Route Climbed: North Ridge - Direct Finish Date Climbed: October 4, 2003 | |
| Last time I climbed this I eyed an alternate finish from the North Ridge that looked interesting. After climbing the 8 foot crack, the standard finish is to traverse south around the rock ridge and back to the summit. But, this time I decided to try to continue directly up the NorthWest Ridge all the way to the summit. This variation is listed as route 26A in Jeff Thomas' Oregon High. It's about 50 feet of 5.4 climbing on pretty solid (at least compared to the rest of the mountsin) rock. The northwest ridge peters out into a 6 foot wide rock fin after the first crack and this is where the standard route begins traversing to the south. Instead, we roped up and climbed straight up the rock fin directly to the summit. The climbing is quite nice with great exposure off both sides of the fin. It protects OK and the rock is generally sound. Although the climbing is only 1 short pitch, it's more interesting than the standard traverse. I recommend it to anyone looking for a slightly more adventurous option. | |
| Posted Oct 6, 2003 2:56 pm | ||
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