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Alex WoodKain Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2013

Alex Wood

Camped at Appleby, left at 6, summited at 12, got down to camp at 5. Nice leisurely day with an incredible summit. The gendarme pitch is stunning. We brought a 70m rope and it wasn't helpful. All the raps are set up for 60m ropes so we just had to deal with 50 extra feet of rope each time. Bring a 60m and save yourselves the pain
Posted Aug 24, 2013 10:52 am

MoonerUp I Go

Mooner

08/15/13 Solo via Kain Route. Climbed after solo up Pigeon. Took 2 hours from beginning of ridge to Summit. Final 5.6 pitch was exposed and all there.
Posted Aug 17, 2013 10:04 am

Vitaliy M.NE ridge  Sucess!

Vitaliy M.

cool climb, with lines to prove it. Fairly easy.
Posted Sep 6, 2012 11:18 am

bearbnzKain  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2012

bearbnz

Fun route, had it to ourselves as the weather looked iffy and everyone else bailed. No rain until we got back to camp.
Posted Aug 4, 2012 6:04 pm

huntersleeKain Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2011

hunterslee

Fantastic route, that is a committing move on the Genderme. Will hit up the North-East Ridge next time I'm there.
Posted Oct 23, 2011 1:06 am

Bezoar Goatenlightenment  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 15, 1997

Bezoar Goat

Oh what a summer that was...
Posted Mar 1, 2011 4:27 pm

NefsekNE Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2010

Nefsek

Climbed in perfect conditions, my first super long alpine rock outing, and first time to Canada. I'll never forget it!
Posted Nov 12, 2010 6:20 pm

danman3156Northeast Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2010

danman3156

Climbed the northeast ridge. Fun route, amazing looking line! We started at noon and decended the Kain route getting back to camp after dark.
Posted Sep 15, 2010 4:25 pm

bc44caesarMultiple  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2010

bc44caesar

15 Aug 2010 - Kain Route
Climbed the route in boots, belayed three pitches - two lower down, and then the gendarme pitch. The latter was very exciting for a 5.6. I also got my boot stuck in the groove leading up to the gendarme. That too made things very exciting. Be sure to stay on the ridge on the descent, we let ourselves go down on the face before realizing our mistake and regaining the ridge.

16 Aug 2010 - Northeast Ridge
Fantastic route! Fun climbing on several pitches, and a full day out. We belayed the first five pitches, then simulclimbed the rest. The final traverse to the north summit was exciting, and the summit views are just incredible. Having reconned the descent the day before, we made our way down relatively quickly. I would recommend climbing the Kain Route first unless you are very good at route finding and can climb the route quickly.
Posted Sep 6, 2010 11:36 am

VinnySnowed of the Kain route

Vinny

fun times with Marty, Chrsi and Pierre but alas - weather did not cooperate.
Posted May 26, 2010 7:47 pm

builttospillNE Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2009

builttospill

The NE Ridge is a classic for good reason. Brian (dunsum) dragged me up this one, leading the entire way. I think we did it pretty quickly--about 12 hours camp to camp as I recall.

The wind, cold and exposure made this feel more serious than it was, but that's part of why it was such a great route.
Posted Feb 5, 2010 4:05 am

dunsumNE Ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 18, 2009

dunsum

Climbed the NE Ridge with Brenton Peterson on a gloriously overcast, chilly, and varyingly-windy day! Superb!!!!
Posted Aug 22, 2009 6:55 pm

bfrenchBugaboo Spire  Sucess!

bfrench

Amazing.
Posted Apr 30, 2009 10:17 pm

alejandroOn the Kain Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2008

alejandro

It's definitely a climb I will remember. First, you think it's a piece of cake, then you're sweating on the Gendarme trying to get an anchor out of a crack while your calves are burning. It was quite an accomplishment! Go for it!
Posted Oct 18, 2008 9:04 pm

JanGSouth East Ridge (Kain route)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2008

JanG

This is one of the most memorable climbs that I ever did. The most difficult moves are in the same league as the crux pitches on Mt Whitney (East Face or Buttress), Grand Teton (Upper Exum Ridge) or Matterhorn (Hornli Ridge). I am specifically referring to successfully climbing the very exposed Gendarme close to the summit. Fortunately for me (and for my sons Christoph & Alexander), at that juncture we were greatly helped by Geoff and Luke, the guides provided to us by Canadian Mountain Holidays.

The view from the top is absolutely unforgettable!
Posted Aug 26, 2008 5:05 pm

GCutforthKain Route  Sucess!

GCutforth

Great day out. A bit of a grovelling start, but the top few rope lengths were amazing. Working the gendarme going up and down was the highlight. Funny story as my climbing partner that day had a cannister of cayenne pepper open in his pants pocket enroute. Hence the birth of my man Chili Pepper Jim.
Posted Nov 30, 2007 1:49 am

AJonesNortheast Ridge & Kain Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 8, 1996

AJones

We climbed the Kain Route first, and then the Northeast ridge a couple of days later. This is helpful, as then you know the descent for the Northeast Ridge. We did both routes in stellar weather and had a great time. I did lose my helmut on the descent (took it off to rest, forgot to put it back on)
Posted Nov 10, 2007 9:49 pm

MtnMagicthree times  Sucess!

MtnMagic

Climbed this peak three times. Twice via the NE ridge (2004 and 2006) and once via the Kain route (2005). Although the NE ridge is the better route, the Kain is definitely a classic alpine ridge. Plus the Kain step does get the heart going for a few seconds there!
Posted Oct 12, 2007 4:58 pm

agreenstreetNE Ridge 8-30-2007  Sucess!

agreenstreet

Climbed the NE ridge. Apparently we are a bit slow as it took us 21 hours hut to hut. But we also had to rap the NE ridge with one single rope as the slabs over to the Kain Route were covered in ice and snow. We had already had enough fun with snow in the chimneys on the NE ridge. Loved the finger crack pitches, the chimneys were a bit awkward, but one of the best climbs I have ever been on. It was crazy looking back up at the route from the Kain Hut and thinking that we had climbed that ridge. Truly awe-inspiring!
Posted Sep 3, 2007 3:53 am

travelin_lightNE Ridge

travelin_light

sweet route.
Posted Feb 14, 2007 6:28 am

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