OverviewCaixa de Fósforos
Caixa de Fósforos is an impressive rock formation inside Parque Estadual dos Três Picos. An unique stone incased over a great block with 1620 mts. As viewed from many places of Frades Valley, Capacete Peak, Tres Picos and Deuses Valley. The top look like a little box, and the climbers called the mountain “Caixa de Fósforos” (match box ). All points of view are impressive, because is very strange how the rock is in equilibrium over there. When you look nearly, the sensation is that all stones will fall in the valley. This formation , when you look far off, is quadrangular but, when you close to, it’s not so quadrate.
Caixa De Fosforos from Pico Maior West wall
Getting ThereThe way to get the Fosforos trailhead is the same of Circuito TereFri. From Vale dos Deuses, walk down to Vale dos Frades and, after 15 minutes of the last fountain at Deuses Valley, as possible to see the Caixa de Fosforos track. From this point, more 25 minutes to expose rock and roots at the last part of the trail to the summit. Arriving the base of main top, make a choice of the route that you want. Exposed, Artificials and technical routes exist there.
Rio de Janeiro Drive to Nova Friburgo, after downtown, turn to the left road to Teresópolis(RJ-130); Turn to the left way again, following the plates to Tres Picos or IBELGA School ; The land road to Ibelga is the start of the trail to Caixa de Fosforos but, you should to cross Deuses Valley until the real trailhead.
Red TapeNo permits or fees are required to hike at Fosforos region, but at the entrance of State Park, the guards register your name, idendity, age, emergency telephone number and your site. All of this, just for your security. Vehicles do not go beyond Paulo Mascarin Hut, just 3 km of Fosforos trailhead. Another option is Jose Augusto Camping - Refugio, where you can supply your forces with soups, breakfasts, fruits, lunch and dinner.
Tres Picos State Park do not have structure to guest the mountaineers yet. It’s a promise to 2006.
When To ClimbSearch a good guide to show the routes, sketches and look the weather before the climbing. If cold fronts arrives when you are rising the mountain, could be dangerous!
April to October
Other seasons can be extremely hot and rainy.
CampingThe best campground near Caixa de Fósforos is Vale dos Deuses, at Circuito TereFri. 20 minutes from the trailhead. From Deuses, as possible to see the North and the West side of the mountain. There aren’t water in the trail, only at Deuses.
Paulo Mascarin Hut
Jose Augusto Camping - Refugio
Mountain ConditionsThere aren’t websites of mountain conditions, just weather and forecasts. But the trails are very clear, with plates indicating the right way.
Caixa de Fósforos RoutesÉ o Corisco - - - VIIa/b E4
Especialidade da Casa - - - VIIIa (A0/IXa) E2
Face Norte da Caixa de Fósforos - - - A1
Fêmeas Efêmeras - - - VIIb E3
Gramoxone - - - VIIIb/c E1
Levante as Mãos para o Céu - - - VIIc E4
Machuca meu Bem - - - VIIa E2
Boas Entradas - - - VIIb E3
Tapas na Cara - - - IXa/b E3
Caixa de Fósforos - Normal - - - A1
Caixa de Fósforos - via de conquista - - - A1
Carcarodon - - - VIIIc E3