Page Type:
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Route |
|---|---|
Route Type:
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Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Scrambling |
Season:
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Fall |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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4th class |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.5 (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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7 |
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Grade:
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III |
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Overview
A series of 4th class scrambles (crux 5.5) zigzagging up easy rock and vegetated ledges.Getting There
Arriving from the North, park at Adirondack Lodge (fees). Hike about 11 km / 4 hours up a muddy trail that becomes gradually more rugged towards Indian Pass. You will see the cliff about the same time you go over the pass. Keep eyes open for heard paths starting right of the main trail. Take the second heard path, which starts just below the route, at a 10m wide by 5 m high rectangular boulder. Camp 3m right of the boulder on a platform, just at the base of the route. An easy bushwack identified by small cairns will lead you to the base of the route, at the highest point of vegetation, within about 15 minutes.Route Description
P1 is a short 5.0 slab or a left facing corner right of the slab. 10m. Confortable belay at a tree atop of the corner. P2 traverses 50m right on the vegetated ledge untill another ledge goes left. Confortable belay on trees. P3 Traverses back left on another vegetated ledge while for 50m. P4 traverse back right 30m on another vegetated ledge, somewhat more exposed, with loose rock. At the end of P4 is a tall rocky buttress: you should contour its basis and climb on its right side. Plenty of crack there for a belay. P5 traverse back left on a rocky ledge until a patch of trees. Belay on trees. P6 (crux 5.5) is another rocky traverse rightward, with a 5.5 overhanging crack with good holds and well protected (sling a tree before and BD Camalot C4 #2 in the crux rock). Belay at the end of the traverse at the begining of the last, leftward rising rocky traverse.Descent is tough since there is no trail to Wallface summit. We have equipped a rappel line which starts about 15 m right of the finish, at summit elevation. Rappel 1 (R1) is short and leads to trees. R2 is long and lead to a large treed ledge. R3 is long and lead to a large treed ledge. Bushy downclimb is required to reach the equipped tree for R4. R4 is long and lead directly to a equipped solid tree. R5 is short.
Ascent and descent totalled up to about 9 hours, keeping a relax pace.
Essential Gear
long shoulder slings with biners come in very handy.External Links
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/New_York/Adirondack_park/Wallface/Wallface/Case_Route_9284.htmlhttp://www.adirondackrock.com/goodies/page%20354.pdf
http://www.adirondackrock.com/goodies/page%20355.pdf
http://www.adirondackrock.com/goodies/page%20374.pdf
http://www.adirondackrock.com/goodies/page%20375.pdf