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Dave DalyThe Regular Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2010

Dave Daly

Mungeclimber and I topped out on this full value beauty with our intent to pay respects to our late dear friend and mentor, Brutus Of Wyde. One year ago, Bruce was on his way to meet me to climb the Spire and was killed in an auto accident. Prayer flags were left and Sapporo was consumed on the summit. Best damn summit I've ever been on! Highly recommended adventure.....if you dare!

Also, a new summit register was placed upon the summit (yellow Pelican weather case). Old register was completely unrecognizable. However, the panties were still in there. Left the old film canister register next to the new one.
Posted Jun 15, 2010 3:49 pm

asmrzRegular Route and variation  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 18, 1988


Route Climbed: Castle Rock Spire, IV, 5.8, A1

15th Ascent Date Climbed: May 15, 1988 with a two pitch start variation

Miguel Carmona and I did the 15th ascent (in 38 years !! ) of this incredible blade of rock in 1988. The approach is pretty tough (see the Fin). In early season, May,June, the approach gully to the spire might be hard snow and might require crampons and ice axe. The route is long, steep, exposure is terrific,and the ratings are conservative.

This is another MUST DO route for backcountry enthusiasts. It's remoteness is the reason it has not been climbed more often. I understand it's still at about +-30 ascents as of 2002.

The route is incredible tribute to the first ascent team; those guys had vision and guts. The summit register, when Miguel and I got there in 1988, read like US Climbing Hall of Fame. All the big names were there, we recognized every name in the register. Allan Steck, Bill Long, Anton Nelson, Roy Gorin, Don Wilson, Jerry Galwas, TM Herbert, Chuck Pratt, John Salathe, Mark Powell, Chuck Wilts, Mike Sherrick, Fred Beckey, Galen Rowell, Steve Roper, EC Joe, Rick Leverse to name some (most?) of them. Mark Powell did the route three (!) times.

Miguel and I decided to avoid the loose, difficult scrambling to the notch, and instead, climbed up from the approach gully straight to the "large Flake" on the buttress. This two pitch variation, 5.8 and 5.9+, brought us directly to the flake.

If you can, stay an extra day and climb both "Silver Lining" and CRS. You will be glad you did.
Posted Mar 11, 2007 12:02 am

ksolemRoute Climbed: The Regular Route Date Climbed: May, 1991


A great climb. Went up as noted below with Guy Keesee. Bill Leventhal and Rachel McCollum came up right behind us. This was one of those trips where everything just went right.

edit: we did the direct variation Alois describes above.
Posted Jun 3, 2005 6:36 pm

GuyzoRoute Climbed: Regular Route Date Climbed: May 1991  Sucess!


With Kris Solem, Kris was able to free every inch of the climb with no falls and no hangs, first try. I got my butt up it by using every trick in my book. This is one of my all time goals and standing on it's top was pretty awsome. The hike in was not to hard, the PO suits worked, we found no ticks, no snakes and plenty of water and good camping on some ledges on the Fin.

I recomend this climb!
Posted May 10, 2005 3:56 pm

brutus of wydeRoute Climbed: Cinco de Mayo Date Climbed: May 4, 2002  Sucess!

brutus of wyde

First ascent of Cinco de Mayo with Brandon Thau, after an attempt on the route the previous year. We summitted in a rainstorm, and rappelled Spike Hairdoo, upgrading the hanging changeover rap station below the Block. This work established Spike Hairdoo as the most efficient descent to the notch from the top of the Spire (2-3 rappels vs. 8+ rappels down the Regular Route).
Posted Mar 29, 2005 3:17 pm

brutus of wydeRoute Climbed: Spike Hairdoo Date Climbed: approx. 18 March, 1996  Sucess!

brutus of wyde

First ascent of Spike Hairdoo, first winter ascent of the spire. Climbed with Eric Coomer. Summit register was present, but early entries had been recopied from original document -- all the early entries were all in the same handwriting. Fewer than 50 entries total in the register.
Posted Mar 29, 2005 3:11 pm

brutus of wydeRoute Climbed: Bettler (Regular) Route Date Climbed: July 25, 1993  Sucess!

brutus of wyde

Climbed with Pat Brennan and Kenn Kenega from a dry camp in the approach gully. We were not able to locate the summit register during this ascent.
Posted Mar 29, 2005 3:03 pm

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