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Chiefs Head Peak Climber's Log

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alpineairCold!  Sucess!
Was trying for Alice but the Hourglass was heavily corniced and we did not have a rope, so we "settled" for CH. Long hike from WB in the winter.
Posted Nov 14, 2013 9:29 am

milanLong day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2011
I was lonely the entire day. It was wonderful weather and great trip. I gave up my plan to go for Alice since I was tired.
Posted Oct 22, 2012 5:33 pm

wmollandFrom Alice  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2012


A nice, short scramble over from Alice. Then onward to Orton!
Posted Jun 28, 2012 12:32 pm

seanoEast ridge  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 29, 2012


From the Pagoda-Chief's Head couloir. A long but easy boulder stroll. Trip report.
Posted May 30, 2012 6:41 pm

chicagotransplantWild Basin  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Oct 1, 2011


Climbed with Scot from Wild Basin, up to Lion Lake #2 and then up onto North Ridge (which is actually on Chiefs Head's south side) to the summit, traverse to McHenrys and then back down. We wanted to climb Mt Alice but weather moved in.
Posted Oct 2, 2011 9:51 pm

thatnissanguyAs part of GGT  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2011


Last peak of the day for us. Descent via Chiefs Head / Pagoda Col was miserable!
Posted Sep 12, 2011 10:55 pm

shknbkeFrom Glacier Gorge   Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2010


From Stone Man Pass, combined with Spearhead. Never get tired of Glacier Gorge!
Posted Dec 9, 2010 12:03 am

Brian KaletTriple Crown  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 4, 2010

Brian Kalet

With McHenrys & Alice.
Posted Sep 7, 2010 1:12 am

boisedocgreat views  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 30, 2010


via Sandbeach Lake. Long dayhike from Copeland Lake. Great views all around including Longs, Pagoda and Alice
Posted Jul 5, 2010 12:54 am

argothorSandbeach Lake to Chiefs Head  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2010


Backpacked in to Sandbeach Lake, and then on the following day hiked up to Mt. Orton, followed along North Ridge to the the southern flake of Chiefs Head. From the summit there are very nice views of Longs' western side, looking down on Spearhead, the Mummy Range and the summits of numerous peaks on the west and south side of the Wild Basin. Glorious day, the weather was beautiful.
Posted Jun 21, 2010 10:24 am

Timothy PearlPCH couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2010

Timothy Pearl

With Mikey B. Like he said below. And I'm now living proof that you can get a decent sunburn on a rainy/snowy whiteout day. 5800' vertical, 13.5 miles, 16 hours. In crampons for at least 7 hours. OOoof.
Posted Jun 15, 2010 11:52 pm

MikeyBUp the Pagoda/CH col.  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 12, 2010


Long day in rain/snow with Tim P. from Glacier Gorge in less than ideal conditions. Will have to go back on a sunny day to take in the missed views. Hard to find Stone Man Pass in the whiteout/cloudy cover, so we reclimbed and descended the col. Overall, a fun col. to climb!
Posted Jun 14, 2010 11:47 am

tomlaurenOrton - Chiefs Head  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2008


Hiked both peaks after a camp at Sandbeach Lake. Amazingly good views of Mt Alice, The Spearhead, Glacier Gorge, and the Pagoda-Longs-Meeker trio. Visited Keplinger Lake on the way back to camp.
Posted Jul 22, 2008 5:40 pm

SarahThompsonTwice  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 11, 2007


3/11/07 - From Sandbeach Lake TH. Last hike of the winter season, and it was a big one! Most of the trail to Sandbeach Lake was tracked, except for the last half mile or so. From the lake, we climbed NW over unranked Mt. Orton and then to the summit of Chiefs Head. Views were incredible. 17 miles was a PR for a winter hike, took 13.5 hours!

9/13/15 - As part of the Glacier Gorge Traverse: Arrowhead -> McHenrys -> Chiefs Head -> Pagoda -> Longs -> Storm.
Posted Apr 14, 2008 11:36 am

KaneWest Ridge


Climbed this huge mountain from Wild Basin with a camp at Thunder Lake. I'm glad I did. The south face of Chiefs Head is huge and concave anf great to look at from the Snowbank Lake area.
Posted Jan 12, 2007 8:28 pm

smudgeNorth Ridge (actually the SE ridge of CH)  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2006


Cooler summit than I thought it would be! Great day out! Climbed w/ Alice and Tanima! Saw your name in the register beave!
Posted Sep 20, 2006 2:14 am

thebeave7Flattop to Chiefs Head Traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006


The last peak of the day, #7, would have liked to gone further, but Pagoda was a little spicy for me. Great views of Longs, the Keyboard, and Pagoda. A fun and worth while day.
Posted Sep 5, 2006 5:44 am

pksanderVia Sand Beach Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Apr 14, 2006


Tough slog with Charles Danforth after making camp at Sand Beach Lake. Horrible sugar snow slog. Slog slog slog. Fun.
Posted Apr 16, 2006 9:37 pm

Mountain JimRoute Climbed: East Ridge Date Climbed: August 1970  Sucess!

Mountain Jim

First climb on a traverse of Longs, Pagoda and Chiefshead. Getting down the West Ridge of Pagoda to the Pagoda-Chiefshead Col is very interesting. The East Ridge of Chiefshead is a pleasant boulder hop.

I've climbed Chiefshead 3 more times since, including the 1st ascent of the 1500 foot flying buttress on the Southwest Face in 1989. We named the route,"The Warbonnet Ridge."
Posted Feb 3, 2006 10:49 pm

RyanSRoute Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: August 2, 2005  Sucess!


Erin and I climbed Chiefs Head's Northwest Ridge as part of Roach's Triple Crown route (from his RMNP guide), which includes McHenrys and Mount Alice.
Posted Aug 4, 2005 4:09 pm

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