Chockstone Corner Direct, 5.10a

8th-9th Pitches- 70m- 5.8+/ The 8th pitch is the crux of the climb, even considering the 5.10 direct start. Easily stem up the chimney at first staying relatively to the outside (a piton or two). Eventually it constricts. At this point the hand jams feel a bit slippery (white mud dust and wet). Place a 4” and make a hard transition out of the chimney to the right on steep face climbing which quickly eases (another piton or two). Continue up wandering steep and loose ground until you reach a small ledge and can walk over to the entrance of another, much deeper chimney with a chockstone high up (right side). Enter the narrow chimney and do knee and arm jamming to elevate yourself on small foot edges here and there. If you want to take the energy to sling the chockstone, go for it, but I just ran it out, even took my helmet off at one point to get through and wiggle myself to the top. That will pretty much be a full 70m, but if you coached your 2nd ahead of time to simul-climb with you, you can continue up and over the top of Yam and belay off of a bolt put in for the via ferrata used for the scramble route. There is not a good gear belay anywhere on top of the route.
Chockstone Corner Direct, 5.10a, 9 Pitches, Bottleneck Wall, Yamnuska, Canmore, Alberta, July, 2009