The route description for 'Kneeanderthal' is not quite correct. It starts just like 'Makunaema', and after the heelhook and the overhanging jugs traverses over to where Marc shows 'Predators Keep the Balance'. At the top roof, it moves left to where Marc shows it (last 10ft).
Also, don't expect 'Makunaema' to be 11b; it's more like 11c.
Oh yes, the direct finish may be rated 11d since folks get it wired on toprope, but it sure as hell is 12a on lead. Gear can protect the 12a move (hint, a .5 camalot in a hueco), but it's pretty thin and you're looking at a 20 footer if you pitch.
bobwert - Jun 2, 2011 11:16 pm - Hasn't voted
route photosThe route description for 'Kneeanderthal' is not quite correct. It starts just like 'Makunaema', and after the heelhook and the overhanging jugs traverses over to where Marc shows 'Predators Keep the Balance'. At the top roof, it moves left to where Marc shows it (last 10ft).
Also, don't expect 'Makunaema' to be 11b; it's more like 11c.
Oh yes, the direct finish may be rated 11d since folks get it wired on toprope, but it sure as hell is 12a on lead. Gear can protect the 12a move (hint, a .5 camalot in a hueco), but it's pretty thin and you're looking at a 20 footer if you pitch.