Cooper-Kor, V, 5.10

13th Pitch- 60m- 5.10/ The crux pitch of the entire route for a variety of reasons, the biggest being that it was wet and mucky in mid August, meaning it is probably in that condition most of the year. Either aid (A0) via a short tension traverse right into yet one more corner (albeit dirty corner) or make run out 5.10 horizontal slab moves directly right into a groove system that runs parallel left of the corner. In any regard, the grooves present the best line (vs the corner itself) even though they were full of running water. Once you reach a junction where two corners form, switch to the left corner and stem back to the right one as you climb the vertical wet and dirty face above succumbing the most difficult climbing of the entire route in less than optimum conditions no doubt, unless you caught this section of the wall dry. Once above this heady lead, the ground turns to rubble and thus set up a belay wherever you deem appropriate. Cooper-Kor, V, 5.10, 18 Pitches, East Face of Pigeon Spire, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, British Columbia, August, 2009