Corkscrew, 5.12a (A0)

Corkscrew, 5.12a (A0)

5th Pitch- 25m- 5.12a or 5.8/A0/ This pitch is about 10m shorter than the guide book has it at. Tough 5.12 to free in my opinion, rock a bit polished from all the aid smearing and a couple of the bolts are quite questionable. The retrofit in 2009 was not completed in whole it appears. Easy aid at any point you flail on the free attempt, just yanking on a draw and/or stepping into a shoulder length sling. Cross over approximately nine bolts as they trend up and right past an old station. Make the transition back to free climbing into the off-width, then traverse out right via a tension rope (2009) or make a downward 5.9 move to gain a small ledge with a piton. Continue right and trend up right towards a fixed belay and corner up and right. The bolted pitch to your right when you start and eventually cross over is the Bolt Nazi, a pretty stiff pitch in its own right. Corkscrew, 5.12a (A0), 7 Pitches, Yellow Edge Area, Yamnuska, Alberta, July, 2008
Dow Williams
on Jul 9, 2009 12:07 pm
Image Type(s): Rock Climbing
Image ID: 528047

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