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Crux of the Arete des Cosmiques

 
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Crux of the Arete des Cosmiques
Climbing the crux section of the Cosmiques ridge. In this situation (april 2007) you can either use the fixed sling or climb the easy vertical crack at the right of the sling.

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ericnoelAmusing Photo

ericnoel

Voted 10/10

At first glance it looked like one climber was standing right on the other's head.
Posted Apr 10, 2007 4:13 pm

LortnocRe: Amusing Photo

Lortnoc

Hasn't voted

That would be a revolutionary way of aiding through difficult sections. Remove your crampons first off course ;)
Posted Apr 10, 2007 4:17 pm

MoTRescued :(

MoT

Hasn't voted

We did this in August 2007 and there was hardly any snow banked below the fixed gear on the crux. Had awful difficulty. Most of the snow had just fallen off the side of the mountain at that area leaving an extra 10 feet of climbing which was JUST beyond our best efforts. We tried the chimney to the right of it also, without success - almost made it there. Ended up bivvying in a small cave overnight 1 rope length below the chimney - weren't giving in that easy! We were surprised at how big a difference the lack of any snow up there made to the route! Increased the crux by a partial grade at least. We found the rest of the ridge easy. Anyway the next morning a storm blew in and we were forced to seek assistance... terribly embarrassed but unfortunately it was a necessary intervention. First ever (and hopefully last ever) mountain rescue situation... Couldn't believe the difference the lack of a snow bank made under the fixed tat
Posted Dec 18, 2007 9:14 am

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Image Data
LortnocSubmitted by Lortnoc
on Apr 10, 2007 3:05 pm

Image ID: 284162
Hits: 6668 
Lat/Lon: 45.87890°N / 6.88780°E
Object Title: Crux of the Arete des Cosmiques

Image Type(s): Rock Climbing, Alpine Climbing, Informational