Dachstein Climber's Log
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|Lud||Route Climbed: Johann-East Ridge-Mecklenburg Ledge-NE route Date Climbed: 2002 August|
|Staring from cablecar station walked up to Johann. After the overhang it was easyer but a long klettersteig. In the middle of the wall two climbers have been rescued just above us (dozens of small stones knocked on my helmet, blown by the helicopter).|
Continued on the East ridge/Meklenburg route, summited, and after descent walked to Guttenberg Hütte on trail 674. It was 3 boring hours in hell, I do not reccomend it. Next day backed to the valley.
No ice/snow tools was needed (AUGUST!), on the south side there was no snow, on the glacier the path looked like a highway.
|Posted Jun 13, 2003 3:47 am|
|martin184||Route Climbed: Northeast wall Date Climbed: 9 July, 2002|
|From Dachsteinsuedwand cablecar station we went up to the glacier, across the snowfield past the east ridge, then to the rocky wall. The ascent was not difficult, but certain "climbers" made it dangerous due to falling stones and once even someone's rope fell on our heads (luckily covered with helmets)! At 1 p.m. we reached the summit. After a few photos of us (and two diligent ravens, occupying the top) we descended the same way and returned down to Ramsau. After one night in a camp we left the Dachstein region in the direction of Salzburg and home.|
|Posted Oct 26, 2002 1:17 pm|
|pini||Route Climbed: traverse northeast wall/west ridge Date Climbed: July, 23rd 2002|
|We did the "big traverse" from Hallstadt via Simony hut and down to Adamek hut and Gosau.|
The ascent from Hallstadt to Simony hut is a real bitch:
6 hours and 1700 meters height with full glacier equipment (ice axe, crampons and 50 m rope) at the first day of our holidays sucks!
And so does the ascent via the northeast wall/Randkluftsteig if you arrive at the crevasse after 9 o'clock! At this time most of the people coming with the cablecar arrive at the crevasse and the route is crowded with unexperienced people who need hours for the last 200 meters up to the summit!
The crevasse was no problem but the climb was a bit tricky with the heavy backpack and lots of people, some of them throwing stones - so we were glad to have our helmets!
We descended via the west ridge which is much easier than the northeast wall and also not crowded!
We arrived at Adamek hut quite early and so we decided to hike back to Hallstadt - the guidebook said 7,5 hours for the way up, so we thought we could do it down in about 5 hours! NO WAY!!
This is not a normal hiking path but a "marked nopath" through the "Karst" and it took us much longer than we thought! So we took the "shortcut" down to "Obere Seealpe", stayed there overnight and walked the next day to Gosau and took the bus back to Hallstadt.
|Posted Aug 5, 2002 1:27 am|
|PeterCorneliusSpaeth||Route Climbed: South Face Munich Chimney Date Climbed: August 1993|
|Started Sunday morning 2 am in Munich and were back in Munich same day Midnight. We planned to climb the 'Steiner Route' but missed the exit from the 'Steiner Ledge' (see main page ;-) Then wanted to finalized via the direct exit but it was later the day and the final wall looked a bit too impressive. So we turned left to join the 'Steiner Route' near the 'Perhab Block' again. The 'Munich Chimney' section had only very few and old pitons in 1993. We were very late and had to climb the cable down to 'Suedwandhaus' by night. Recommendable route, you will be more or less alone in the 'Munich Chimney' section.|
PS: Take a hammer with you. It may help to cross the steep snow or ice field to reach the first length. Or grab a well shaped stone ...
|Posted Apr 24, 2002 4:40 am|