OverviewDead Cholla Wall is located outside of Taos, New Mexico in the Rio Grande Gorge. This area is popular due to the short hike and the solitude and tranquilty offered by the canyon. The area offers beautiful views of Taos and Wheeler Peak to the East, and the Rio Grande River lays 600 feet below at the bottom of the gorge.
This area is composed of 60' black and red basalt rock, and like all New Mexico's basalt cliffs, the area above and below is covered in loose, dangerous rocks that can come free at the slightest touch. Please take precautions when walking too and from the area along the West Rim Trail not to accidently send any rocks free into the fall zone of the climbers below. There are more then 25 bolted routes, and several crack climbs that accept gear. Most of the climbing is on small in-cut holds, along with cracks that vary anywhere from finger jam to arm bar size.
Getting to the Crag
Where are the Bolts - 5.11a Jam a 40-foot finger crack. Gear route.
Kissing Fish - 5.9 Hand and finger crack. Gear route with anchor
Jam Time - 5.10b One of the best crack climbs here. Gear route.
Blind Faith - 5.10+ May need gear before first bolt. 3 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.
Queso's Delight - 5.12- Runout and difficult. Gear route with anchor
Lava Flows - 5.11a Up and arete. Need small placement for first 20 feet. 5 bolts to anchor
Open Season - 5.10c Finger crack up to prow. Gear plus 2 bolts to anchor.
Cholla Back Step - 5.11 Climb the corner. Gear route to anchor.
Hageemoto - 5.11d Steep face with layback. 5 bolts to anchor.
Merege Left - 5.11 Shares first bolt with Gorge Yourself, then left up steep red face. 4 bolts to anchor.
Gorge Yourself - 5.10d Wires and TCU's needed after two bolts. Anchor
Just Arose - 5.11 Climb the Red Streak. 4 bolts to anchor
After the Pillar Came Down - 5.10b/c Face climb up thin crack to dihedral. Gear route with no anchors. Belay from top of cliff.
Toxic Socks - 5.12 Steep Face up red wall. 6 bolts to anchor
Special Ed - 5.11+ Thin crack and corner route. 5 bolts to anchor.
Fun - 5.7 Face climb right wall past two bolts and then up the crack. 2 bolts to anchor.
Games - 5.10+ Small holds and smears. 5 bolts to anchor.
One for the Book - 5.8+ Hand Crack. Gear to anchor
Corrido Del Norte - 5.11 Pale face right of corner. 4 bolts to anchor.
Back to the Creek - 5.11a/b Scramble up loose low angle rock and clip a bolt in an inset corner. Jam the overhanging finger crack (gear) to a ledge. Continue straight up past three more bolts to a two bolt anchor.
No Lines - 5.10+ Face moves past crack on right. 3 bolts to shared anchor with No Waitng.
No Waiting - 5.11 Face climbing up white streak. 5 bolts to anchor.
Fesival sin Peliculas - 5.10b Good pro. Gear route no anchor.
Twisted Feet - 5.11a Long reaches and lots of stemming up pale face. 5 bolts to anchor.
Doc's Dangle - 5.10b/c After second bolt move left to thin edging. 4 bolts to anchor.
Somebody Loaned Me a Bosch - 5.11a Start up Doc's Dangle but move up right after first bolt. 4 bolts to anchor.
Either Or - 5.11 Face climb to the right or crack. 4 bolts to anchor
Esmeralda - 5.11 Steep face climb up arete. 5 bolts to anchor.