Deimos, 5.9

Deimos, 5.9

1st Pitch- 30m- 5.9/ Although it looks like you should go straight up the large boulders (what the topo calls a cave) directly below the route, for some reason the FAers have you going around to the right. Neither approach to the base of the main crack involves much climbing. If going around right, pulling one 5th class mantel to reach the large ledge below the stellar wide crack/roof, either solo it or pull your piece so you can avoid rope drag as you traverse back left. To reach the wide roof portion of the crack follow nice jugs to the right of the crack and enter the small box chimney. A few great physical/awkward moves for the grade pulls the roof above; stemming, chimneying with a bit of hand crack at the end. The topo in the guide book shows setting the anchor fairly immediate. However, the most comfortable belay is right below the twin cracks (huge chock stone) above. Deimos, 5.9, 3 Pitches, Phobos Deimos Cliff, Yosemite National Park, CA, July, 2013
Dow Williams
on Aug 14, 2013 9:59 am
Image Type(s): Rock Climbing
Image ID: 861693

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