Diaberis Pothos | Trad Climbing at the top of Profitis Elias – Asini (Greece)

Overview

“Diaberis Pothos” (VI, 100 m.) first ascent was made on 14/07/2020 by Christos Rigas and Olympus Mountaineering. The route follows the north-east couloir which is located on the north face of Profitis Elias Rock/hill. The route can be described as a “demanding route” with plenty of variety in the climbing style, from slab to dehydral and some scrambling too.

Getting There

From Nafplio follow Leoforos Asklipiou and then follow the road to Tolo and Asini. Just before Asini, turn right to Agia Paraskevi. Once in Agia Paraskevi, follow the signs to Profitis Elias and about 150 meters before the trail (Stairs) to the Profitis Elias Chappel, you can park your car on the side of a dirt road.

• Parking lot location: 37.546691, 22.853306
• Beginning of the route: 37.545420, 22.855434

Approaching the R0 requires 15 minutes of hiking and there is not an obvious trail. Best advice is to follow a large tube that is providing electricity to huge projector lights.

Route Description

R0 – R1 | V UIAA 35 m.

The route starts with the first ropes (35 m.) Right from the base of the north side of the rock (37.545420, 22.855434). The first steps are through a couloir with rubbles (III) and various (unfortunately) trash.

Then, the route goes through a IV degree passage and we climb up up to a small ledge where we can place a good protection (sling) in a wild olive tree. From that point a dihedral (IV) extends and we climb for about 5 meters until we pass (from the right side) another wild olive tree and we enter a slab of V degree that can be well protected with our gear. We continue to climb the slab (V) and we complete by reaching a ledge from the left side, but it needs attention(!) due to a large volume of rubbles and fragments. Having reached the ledge we move to the east (right) until we see a rock slab a significant “S” crack. Few meters above the crack, we can clearly spot 2 tunnels.

Make a belay with a large sling or kevlar cordelette in an obvious large tree. The location for belay is very good and comfortable.

R1 – R2 | VI UIAA 25 m.

The second pitch (25 m.), starts from the base of the “S” crack (V) where we can place a big camalot (No. 6) as first protection gear. We climb the “S” crack (V) from the right side and our goal is to reach the first (of the two) tunnel where we can place a good piece of gear (sling) before entering the crux of the route.

Having reached the first tunnel, we have to move slightly to the left (east) and move to a rock slab (VI) where we have to make 3 beautiful but demanding moves of VI degree until we reach the second obvious tunnel of the route where we can again place a sling. The second pitch is completed again on a slab by moving slightly to the left (east) with a maximum difficulty of V degree.

We can belay with a large sling or kevlar cordelette in an obvious large tree. The location for belay is good, relatively comfortable and with a unique view to the village of Agia Paraskevi.

R2 – R3 | V+ UIAA 40 m.

The third pitch (40 m.) starts exactly vertical to R2 with a V + grade slab but can be protected quite well by 2 trees but also with nuts and/or friends. Then we continue the obvious upward course in a slab (V-) and as we approach the end of the route, the degree of difficulty decreases (III) and the last 10 m become scrambling.

At this point the view to the east, begins to become unique and we can see Tolo and islands such as Romvi, Koronisi and Platia.

At the top where the route ends, we will find the old chapel of Prophet Elias.

At the top of Profitis Elias Rock

After three lovely pitches with some demanding moves but with very comfortable belays, we have reached the top of Profitis Elias Rock.

The little church that is build on top is dedicated to Prophet Elias, and thus the name of the hill. The view at the top is panorama (360º) and you can get a pretty good idea of the surrounding area and its morphology. It is on the way to the coast of Tolo, if you are coming from Nafplio.

There is a road that takes you from the village of Ag. Paraskevi to the lower parts of the hill. From there it is a 15-20 mins walk uphill, following the path designated by white crosses, that will take you to the top.

Essential Gear

For repeating the route one needs the following items: - Wire nuts 1-10 - Friends/Cam up to #6 - Slings/Lanyards - Kevlar cordelette - 2 x 60 m. 1/2 ropes The route was done by using temporary protection. Belays are done with temporary protection

External Links

https://olympusmountaineering.wordpress.com/2020/07/15/diaberis-pothos-trad-climbing-at-the-top-of-profitis-elias-asini/