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JonWClassic  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2012


Stuck behind a super slow party...annoying
Posted Jun 28, 2013 9:56 am

asmrzDirect Exum, a good route


Bill Krause and I climbed the lower and upper Exum in July 1989 from our camp at the Meadows. Great route.
Posted Dec 22, 2012 3:29 pm

bedellympiantrail by night  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2012


Left car at 3:15am and returned at 12:30am the next night. Definitely took longer than expected. Lead p1 and 3-6. Combined p3&4 and 5&6 easily to make the lower a 4 pitch. Lots of traffic on the lower. Route finding also contributed to time loss. Upper is pretty easy solo in approach shoes. Great weather allowed us to push to summit despite late hour.
Posted Sep 12, 2012 12:04 am

dharmabumComplete Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2011


Climbed lower and upper Exum from lower saddle on 14th. Hiked to lower saddle on 13th. Conditions were cool and windy, but overall pretty good. Lots of snow up to lower saddle and several patches on the route. Did entire thing in approach shoes. Ice axe needed in several spots.
Posted Aug 29, 2011 4:39 pm

noahs213Great climb  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 6, 2011


Loved the black face
Posted Aug 8, 2011 11:48 am

Ted EliasonA committing route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 30, 2011

Ted Eliason

If I had one complaint of this route, it zig zag placements and a lot of rope drag. Combined with the Upper Exum in 8 hours and got hit with weather on the summit. Highly recommend the complete Exum only in stable high pressure weather conditions.
Posted Aug 1, 2011 7:26 pm

Vinnycoming of age


My first big alpine route turned epic. Climbed with Bill who I met at the ranch the day prior. Great guy wonder what he is upto now? Saved the buts of a father and son crew from SLC that overestimated their readiness. Basically my first rescue to make a long story short. Great mountain. returned once already for Valhalla couloir- will be back ...

Posted Feb 27, 2011 5:24 pm

ExcitableBoyBack in the day  Sucess!


Climbed it with a girl. It was her first real mountain and third multipitch rock climb.
Posted Jan 1, 2011 10:52 am

MichaelJDirect  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2010


Climbed the full ridge in under 2 hours, 11 hours car-to-car. Lost quite a bit of time looking for start. Wasn't even sure I was on route until I got to the black wall, which was super fun. Carried a rope for the raps but rode someone else's line down. Training weight, I guess.
Posted Aug 22, 2010 1:09 pm

SKIBad timing
Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010


Partner fell after some rocks gave way on our way up the 4th class direct start to the chimney prompting an immediate descent. Thanks to the NPS Rangers and Exum Guides for their help when shit hit the fan at the lower saddle.
Posted Jul 20, 2010 8:22 am

jamesmc2Car to Car in 12 hours  Sucess!


One of the best alpine style climbs I have done. Got off route on the black face pitch which was exciting. After reaching the summit we returned to our packs at the lower saddle and found that marmots had eaten all of our food! A woman there with Exum guides hooked us up with two slices of pizza which fueled our descent.
Posted Jul 5, 2010 2:16 am

GrumpyJohnDirect Exum
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009


An absolute must do. If you're not sure of the route or your own abilities, pay a guide. But climb this!
Posted Mar 29, 2010 8:04 pm

reboylesDirect Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 14, 1976


I climbed this route with Frank Florence. We met up with Mike Weber and Frank's dad Lou higher up on Upper Exum. Lou had made several previous attempts to get up the Grand but had been turned back by snow every time. Lou was an original member of the 10th Army Mountain Division and had seen action in Italy in WWII. It was an honor to climb and summit with this member of "The Greatest Generation".
Posted Mar 1, 2010 8:19 pm

YankeeriverDirect Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2009
I climbed with Exum Guide Pat Ormond. My first time up Grand Teton, or above 12K feet for that matter. I had a great, cold and icey time. Can't wait to come back with my wife and do it again.
Posted Sep 18, 2009 6:49 pm

BonesawLower Exum
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2009


Great route! Led my wife up all pitches then took Wall Street back down. This was a full day in itself... complete with a few route finding complications. The Black Face pitch is simply AMAZING!A fast moving party could do the entire ridge in a day. If you have doubts, split the Lower and Upper into two separate days.
Posted Jul 29, 2009 10:55 am

bfrenchDirect Exum  Sucess!


Climbed 3 times all with great friends including my wife.
Posted Apr 28, 2009 12:35 am

ToddinDurangoSmoky Day
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2007


Success on this day? The Lower Exum is a day in itself. We woke well before sunrise to thick smoke from wildfires. Made good time getting to base--axes and crampons completely unnecessary, surprising for June. Made good time on the Lower. Loved the last three pitches. I got a little off route on pitch 6 with long run out on slopers; go a bit right there. Made it past the wind tunnel when the first signs of nasty weather in a week made us turn back. Rappel down to Wall Street with long, winding slog back down. Success? Some of the best pitches of my life. Thanks Justin for being a great comrade.
Posted Aug 20, 2007 1:20 am

seth@LOKINot crowded except by clouds  Sucess!


Zach M and I eschewed with the middle three pitches to beat the clouds rolling in on the peak. Excellent climbing. I should train up and head for the middle section some day. I'd rather climb Owen and Teewinot fisrt.
Posted Aug 17, 2006 6:19 am

Sam PageDirect Exum  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 23, 1996

Sam Page

I climbed this route twice, once with my good friend Christian Szautner. He was intent on hiring Alex Lowe to guide him up it, but I persuaded him to do it with me for free. What magic when at the base of the Black Face, Mr. Lowe appeared with his client. I had the privilege of sharing a belay alcove with Mr. Lowe above the Black Face. I'll never forget watching Mr. Lowe run it out on the Black Face in his ragged, threadbare climbing shoes (or sneakers? I can't remember). What a tragedy it was when he was swept away on Shishapangma in fall 1999. Anyway, this is an awesome, but crowded, route. Get to the base early!
Posted Feb 14, 2006 12:41 am

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