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Eagle Dance, 5.10c, A0

 
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Eagle Dance, 5.10c, A0
7th-8th Pitches- 100’- 5.10b A0/ It is best to combine these pitches due to the awkward belay stance at the end of the aid pitch and that is what I chose to do. Climb up and left to the first aid bolt. It is a bit run out to reach unless you stick in a trad piece, but that will result in more rope drag on this traverse line. I used double length slings tied off for aiders, but I believe you could swing and grab most of the aid ladder. I few of them might be a bit spaced out for that early on. Traverse left over to a sandy seam that is a bit unnerving as you make the transfer from aid to free climbing right below the next belay station. Clip through the station and ascend four or five bolts up the suspect rock. You can add additional protection in the seam and once the hard climbing is over, you can protect with a few trad pieces until you reach the next station with a small stance. For me this was the crux pitch of the route and I lead the lower 5.10c pitch as well.
Eagle Dance, 5.10c, A0, 9 Pitches, Eagle Wall, Rainbow Mountain, Red Rocks, NV, January, 2010

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Dow WilliamsRe: Bravo !

Dow Williams

Hasn't voted

Thanks Megla, a bit cold on the fingers this time of year, but worth it...cheers
Posted Jan 13, 2010 3:49 pm

rpcgreat shot

rpc

Voted 10/10

& position! the wall is supposed to be nice & sunny but it looks like you guys had some clouds moving through?
Posted Jan 13, 2010 4:00 pm

Dow WilliamsRe: great shot

Dow Williams

Hasn't voted

I will be honest, I have zero sun burn to prove anything! Climbing with New Englanders suck...they think 40f is a damn fine rock day. So we were on north or east facing stuff the entire week...the one cloudy day we had, we did Eagle Dance! I was cheated man.
Posted Jan 13, 2010 4:16 pm

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Dow WilliamsSubmitted by Dow Williams
on Jan 12, 2010 10:04 am

Image ID: 588834
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Object Title: Eagle Dance, 5.10c, A0

Image Type(s): Rock Climbing