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East Butress Direct

East Butress Direct

East Butress Direct

Page Type: Route

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 48.51220°N / 120.6541°W

Object Title: East Butress Direct

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.11a (YDS)

Difficulty: IV, 5.9, A1 or 5.10+

Number of Pitches: 10

Grade: IV

Route Quality: 
 - 4 Votes


Page By: ExcitableBoy

Created/Edited: Jan 24, 2003 / Jan 1, 2011

Object ID: 157648

Hits: 3824 

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From I-5, drive Hwy 20 east from Newhalem and travel over Washington Pass past the Blue Lake parking lot. Park at the hairpin turn below the East Face of the Liberty Bell group. From the hairpihn hike uphill towards the east face of South Early Winter Spire through an obvious breach in the cliffs. Follow a gulley until able to traverse right underneath the face of South Early Winter Spire passing a cave. Scramble up steeping benches until more difficult climbing forces you to belay.

Route Description

This route is best done in summer when the approach and descent are snow free. July-Sept are good months. An excellent topo and description can be found in Nelson and Potterfield's, Selected Climbs in the Cascades (Vol I).

Belay two easy pitches to below the obvious crack system. Climb the crack to a roof. Undercling left, around the roof and up more cracks to a good ledge. Climb trending first left, then back right to a good ledge with a small tree.

Climb the bolt ladder up and right around the corner, aid or free. Follow another bolt ladder to a hard mantle and more cracks to the summit.

Descent: Down climb the south rib with a couple of single rope rappels at the bottom.

Essential Gear

Rocks shoes, Helmet, 60 meter rope, 12 nuts, cams from small to 3", doubles .75 to 2" or #8-11 hexes are useful. 10 slings, 6 QDs, (pair of aiders, ascenders, sky hook can be useful if aiding.)

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Early Morning SpiresDEB3rd PitchDEBDEBDEBDEB
DEBEast buttpitch 4up on the east buttressDEBDEBDEB
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