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East Ridge

 
East Ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Colorado, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.98810°N / 107.8231°W

Object Title: East Ridge

Route Type: Scramble/technical climb

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: Low 5th class

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: nickd

Created/Edited: Jul 11, 2003 / Jul 12, 2003

Object ID: 158302

Hits: 4804 

Page Score: 76.66%  - 7 Votes 

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Approach


As per most guidebook descriptions of Dallas from the Telluride side: Take water plant access road north across from texaco (drive or walk depending on gate) to deep creek trail to mill creek trail. Approx. 1/4 mile after mill creek trail descends into mill creek basin - after crossing stream and when full face of dallas pk. is in view (approx. 11,200') - start upward traverse toward col 12,974' - clearly visible via light color scree. This col can also be approached from blue lakes (c.f. rosborough san juan climbing guide description).

Route Description


Ascent: from 12,974' col follow ridge west toward 13,300' col just below southeast face. Generally stay to south of east ridge - cross much scree-covered downsloping rock (3rd class). At 13,300' col, traverse left, ascend rock (3rd/4th class) to climber's right of snow/couloir in middle of face. When below summit block, ascend snow/rock to hidden exit between blocks, or 5th class chimney 30' to right of snow. Descend shallow ramp on north face (exposure), to obvious weakness in headwall - right above large, semi-detached block. Climb (low 5th class) 100' to summit ridge, walk east to summit.

Descent: Take packs, etc. to summit to allow descent via 2 rappels from east end of summit (slings in place). Rappel of ascent route is much less direct. Return to 13,300' col - then
descend steep scree couloir to lower cliff band (cairns) - then traverse above cliff band (staying high as possible to avoid blind chutes) to large rib lower on east face. Traverse grass/scree back to mill creek trail.

Round trip - 11 hours (4 people).

Essential Gear


Helmets, 60m rope, small rack (mid size cams), 2 - 20' sling/light ropes for rappel anchors. ice axe. Add crampons if significant snow is visible on south side.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

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