This is only my opinion, but I have been up and around Eva, Parry, and Bancroft a bunch of times. Every time I was in that area, I would look at the awesome rocky north side of the bump/summit directly East of Eva. This "bump" is along the very rocky ridge that extends due East from Eva's summit. It looks loose and intimidating but is actually quite the opposite.
If you are inclined to enjoy a good/easy Class 3 scramble, try this route. I did not take any photos, but I placed distinct markers along the entire route.
Here is how you get there: First, park at Fall River Reservoir. Walk to the reservoir. At this point almost due west, a giant rocky peak dominates. This is the "bump" along Eva's East Ridge. The summit of the "bump" (and Eva as well) are not quite visible, but that rocky behemoth is your goal.
Back to business. Walk along the South shore of the lake on a footpath. Follow it until the reach the "mouth." From the mouth, follow a footpath west to a series of small waterfalls (sometimes visible, and due West of, and above, the reservoir proper). Scramble up ledges, etc., staying to the left of the waterfalls.
To not overcomplicate these directions, suffice it to say that you are aiming for the basin from which the water is flowing to the falls.
Once you crest the falls and emerge into the tranquil basin, more of Eva's East Ridge is visible (will be sort of south/southwest of you). In the basin, stay to the left of the creek/river, somewhat trying to hug the base of the mountain on your left.
By looking up at the ridge from the top of the falls, you can tell early on that there is a vertical cleft in the ridge that would make trouble for you if you attempted to gain the ridge too early. Keep walking, maybe 1/4 mile West from the top of the falls. You will eventually see yet another huge cleft on Eva's East Ridge, this one with gigantic boulders it's base and a scree fan that heads up into it. I may not be exactly right, but this cleft sort of segments the north slopes into two. It may have remnants of a snowfield on the left side of the base/scree. To the RIGHT of this cleft, you can see about 1000 feet of steep ledges and grassy areas mixed in. This is the general location of the route up to the ridge proper. It looks steep as heck from this view, but it is easy.
Begin heading up the scree pile into the cleft, scrambling on loose rock. After maybe 250-350 vert from the valley floor look for an escape from the scree pile on your RIGHT. I marked it with a sturdy cairn.
From there, follow my cairns (perhaps destroyed by weather) or simply make your own route as you go. There are always easy terrain options so ascending is never difficult. Eventually the angle softens. I kind of zig-zagged the higher I got, generally angling diagonally climbers right, especially once the angle was less steep nearing the top. The rock was excellent for markers so I made a ton of them. Once on the ridge proper, simply head West to a summit with no marker, then climb Eva if you want. Descent: Drop down north from the saddle between Eva and the bump. It is gentle-sloping, then head East back to the falls and the reservoir. Enjoy! Sorry for no photos.
Brad, planning an Eva climb this Sunday and I was wondering if there was a non-technical route up to Eva other than the fairly lengthy CDT-Flora trail and then the standard CD ridge traverse. I’m curious how you feel about ascending via the route you took back down, i.e. going up to the saddle from the north. I know it’s been a while, but, thoughts? Either way, appreciate the great info!
BradBartick - Jul 19, 2015 8:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2015
Another option on the East RidgeThis is only my opinion, but I have been up and around Eva, Parry, and Bancroft a bunch of times. Every time I was in that area, I would look at the awesome rocky north side of the bump/summit directly East of Eva. This "bump" is along the very rocky ridge that extends due East from Eva's summit. It looks loose and intimidating but is actually quite the opposite.
If you are inclined to enjoy a good/easy Class 3 scramble, try this route. I did not take any photos, but I placed distinct markers along the entire route.
Here is how you get there: First, park at Fall River Reservoir. Walk to the reservoir. At this point almost due west, a giant rocky peak dominates. This is the "bump" along Eva's East Ridge. The summit of the "bump" (and Eva as well) are not quite visible, but that rocky behemoth is your goal.
Back to business. Walk along the South shore of the lake on a footpath. Follow it until the reach the "mouth." From the mouth, follow a footpath west to a series of small waterfalls (sometimes visible, and due West of, and above, the reservoir proper). Scramble up ledges, etc., staying to the left of the waterfalls.
To not overcomplicate these directions, suffice it to say that you are aiming for the basin from which the water is flowing to the falls.
Once you crest the falls and emerge into the tranquil basin, more of Eva's East Ridge is visible (will be sort of south/southwest of you). In the basin, stay to the left of the creek/river, somewhat trying to hug the base of the mountain on your left.
By looking up at the ridge from the top of the falls, you can tell early on that there is a vertical cleft in the ridge that would make trouble for you if you attempted to gain the ridge too early. Keep walking, maybe 1/4 mile West from the top of the falls. You will eventually see yet another huge cleft on Eva's East Ridge, this one with gigantic boulders it's base and a scree fan that heads up into it. I may not be exactly right, but this cleft sort of segments the north slopes into two. It may have remnants of a snowfield on the left side of the base/scree. To the RIGHT of this cleft, you can see about 1000 feet of steep ledges and grassy areas mixed in. This is the general location of the route up to the ridge proper. It looks steep as heck from this view, but it is easy.
Begin heading up the scree pile into the cleft, scrambling on loose rock. After maybe 250-350 vert from the valley floor look for an escape from the scree pile on your RIGHT. I marked it with a sturdy cairn.
From there, follow my cairns (perhaps destroyed by weather) or simply make your own route as you go. There are always easy terrain options so ascending is never difficult. Eventually the angle softens. I kind of zig-zagged the higher I got, generally angling diagonally climbers right, especially once the angle was less steep nearing the top. The rock was excellent for markers so I made a ton of them. Once on the ridge proper, simply head West to a summit with no marker, then climb Eva if you want. Descent: Drop down north from the saddle between Eva and the bump. It is gentle-sloping, then head East back to the falls and the reservoir. Enjoy! Sorry for no photos.
LoneWolf - Sep 11, 2020 5:33 pm
Re: Another option on the East RidgeBrad, planning an Eva climb this Sunday and I was wondering if there was a non-technical route up to Eva other than the fairly lengthy CDT-Flora trail and then the standard CD ridge traverse. I’m curious how you feel about ascending via the route you took back down, i.e. going up to the saddle from the north. I know it’s been a while, but, thoughts? Either way, appreciate the great info!