Echo Rock, East Face, 5.7-5.12a

Overview/Approach (Dow leading Private Eye, 5.10a*, above photo)

Echo Rock’s northeast face is the least climbed wall on the Echo Rock formation.  It harbors just one classic route, Bambi Meets Godzilla, 5.8**.  However, there is a collection of relatively new bolted routes at the west end of this northeast wall that is attracting more folks.  This short wall is named Hidden Wall. 

The broad arete that seperates this northeast facing wall from the broad south face of Echo Rock is named TS Special, 5.9*.  TS is a stout, runout, route at the grade.  Bambi Meets Godzilla is a classic trad route at its grade.  Softly graded by Jtree standards, Bambi offers a long mellow trad lead of over 100’.  The Hidden Wall offers three sport routes in a row that are also relatively soft by Jtree standards (Gaines).  On the right side of the HIdden Wall are two mixed (trad/bolts) routes that can can be combined (stacked) for one long lead:   Unknown, 5.8, continuing on to Mother Trucker, 5.9*.  It can be led with a single 70m rope as long as you extend your placements to avoid rope drag and a true 70m will just get you all the way down on rap.

Park at the relatively large Echo Tee trailhead parking area.  Hike north around the right side (east) of the broad south face of Echo Rock.  After the arete (TS Special) There is an alcove of sorts (NE facing) that the Menace and Beadwagon climb out of.  Further right off the desert floor are two bolted climbs, Igor, Prince of Poodles and Dances with Poodles.  Further right into the trees, off the desert floor, are the trad climbs Fromunda Cheese and Bambi Meets Godzilla.  In a short distance further right, a short scramble leads to the bolted Hidden Wall which is comprised of two levels with a ledge in between.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the Wall

Menace- 70’-5.10c/

Beadwagon- 70’-5.11a/

Igor, Prince of Poodles- 40’-5.11c*/

Dances with Poodles- 35’-5.12a/

Closed on Mondays- 65’-5.9/

Fromunda Cheese- 150’-5.7/

Bambi Meets Godzilla- 140’-5.8**/ Becoming, if not already, a classic 5.8 trad lead at Jtree. Start behind a pinion tree up the wide corner/crack.  Eventually you come across a short off-width section with your right leg in and left leg out.  Once atop of this flake, you get another crux at the grade entering a steep hands crack with no feet for a move.  Both of these sections offer great climbing for the grade and this pitch is more deserving of three stars in Miramontes guide as compared to others he grants that status to.  Walk a narrow ridge climber’s right to a fixed rap.  A 70m drops all the way down or with a 60m you can scramble a bit west and around after coming to the end of your rope.  All gear.   Single to C4#3.  Doubles from #.75 to #2 which help make the gear station on top. Dow

Hidden Wall

Private Eye- 80’-5.10a*/ Fully bolted route at the left end of Hidden Wall.  Worth the recommendation from the guide offering fun slab and edge climbing.  Soft for the grade at Jtree.  Six clips.  Run out easy ground on the next wall above to the fixed rap.  Dow

Under the Radar- 75’-5.7+*/ Next route right, typical Jtree 5.7 slab/face climb to the fixed anchor on the upper wall.  Well bolted at 7 clips.  Dow

Rodeo Doggie- 70’-5.10b/

Unknown to Mother Trucker- 125’-5.9*/ You can do two in one and rap Mother Trucker’s fixed rap with a single 70m to get all the way back down.  Slab and face climb Unknown through two bolts to the ledge with the tree and continue up on gear through horizontals on Mother Trucker.  Trend left on the upper face through two bolts.  The fixed rap is way out right once you get to the edge of the summit.  Dow