Sierra NevadaEl Capitan Climber's Log
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[ Sign the Climber's Log ]
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| bigwallt | Route Climbed: Various Date Climbed: Started in 1987 thru present  | |
| Lunar Eclipse Zodiac (4 ascents) The Shortest Straw Zenyatta Mendotta (winter ascent) Kaos (2nd ascent) Lost in America Tangerine Trip Iron Hawk Atlantic Ocean wall (4th ascent) Pacific Ocean Wall (solo) Wall of the Early Morning Light The Shield The Muir Wall The Salathe' Wall Lurking Fear | |
| Posted Feb 16, 2005 2:13 am | ||
| brutus of wyde | Route Climbed: several Date Climbed: Various, starting in 1978 | |
| from Tamarack Flat via trail 1978 East Buttress with Pat and the Gunkies 1979 Salathe' Wall with Eric Perlman in 1982 Nose with Nygil in 1984 East Buttress with Tobias 6.5 hrs. car-to-car 1986 East Buttress with Mattie Thompson 1994 Zodiac with Eric Coomer 1995 Magic Mushroom with Coomer and Amanda Tarr 1996 Lurking Fear with Paul Espinosa 1996 Tangerine Trip with Coomer and Craig Francois 1996 East Buttress with Em Holland 1997 Zenyatta Mondata with Tom McMillan 1997 Salathe' Wall with Inez Drixelius 1997 Muir Wall (complete) with Nurse Ratchet 2001 Tempest (3rd ascent) with McMillan and Valerio Folco 2001 | |
| Posted Jan 26, 2005 6:17 pm | ||
| stoneman5 | Route Climbed: East Buttress Date Climbed: September, 2003 | |
| Really, really nice. The Hubers were freeing the Zodiac next to us, pretty monumental. Plus we got to use their fixed ropes on the descent! | |
| Posted Sep 13, 2004 7:29 pm | ||
| orandall | Route Climbed: trail from camp 4 Date Climbed: October 2003 | |
| didn't "climb" it per se, just hiked up past the falls and past Eagle peak to the El Cap summit on a relatively flat trail. Great trail with absolutely no one there - most everybody just stops at the upper yosemite falls but the rest is easy after that. 17 mile round trip. | |
| Posted Sep 2, 2004 2:41 pm | ||
| brandon | Route Climbed: Shield Date Climbed: June 2004 | |
| This was great. Scenic cruising style in 5 days.... My first fall on El Cap snuck up and bit my ass after finishing the Shield roof pitch. I clipped the fixed slings on the belay, bounced 'em cause they looked ancient, OK, they're good. Reach down and backclean for my partner, step up, reaching with other daisy to clip directly into bolt I can now reach, and Wham, i'm airborne. Now I'm swinging around 6 feet from the wall and 40 feet below the belay, with my right hand still stretched out with the daisy I was fractions of a second away from clipping in. Oh well, lesson learned, no harm done. And, a nice clean belay minus the wad of fixed slings. | |
| Posted Jul 6, 2004 6:58 pm | ||
| Rob | Route Climbed: Various Date Climbed: 1994-2004 | |
| 1994 Zodiac 1995 Shield 1995 E. Buttress 1995 Tangerine trip 1995 North America wall 1996 Pacific Ocean wall 1996 Iron hawk 2000 Mescalito 2004 E. Buttress | |
| Posted Jan 23, 2004 7:03 pm | ||
| mtnfoto | Route Climbed: E Buttress Date Climbed: Spring 1995 | |
| Climbed with Mark Hoffman. A classic! | ||
| Posted Jan 20, 2004 7:15 pm | ||
| brandon | Route Climbed: NA Wall Date Climbed: Sept 2003 | |
| My first El Cap route, via the road less travelled. Now I know all those traversing pitches, and the gut busting feet pedaling in the air overhangs. It was great fun, not too hard, but engaging. Lots of maginal aliens, and lots of hooking (for us). Almost no rivets or copperheads, an amazing natural passage. Black Cave bivy get two thumbs up. Pitch 5 chimney/squeeze gets two grunts. | |
| Posted Sep 30, 2003 7:46 pm | ||
| bigwally | Route Climbed: Various Date Climbed: 1977-1990 | |
| The Best Partners that I've ever had....Finest Rock that I've ever Touched....The Longest Climbs I've ever Climbed.....The Biggest Dreams that I've ever Dreamt. Mr Midwest, West Face, Lurking Fear, Aquarius, Horse Chutes(Horseplay Var.), The Shield, Muir Wall, The Nose, Mescalito, Pacific Ocean, North American Wall, Zodiac, Lunar Eclipse. BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS | |
| Posted Aug 25, 2003 9:56 am | ||
| wallspeck | Route Climbed: 8 different routes. Date Climbed: 1986---1993 | |
| June 1986---the Nose with Rick Skidmore, a 5 day cruise. Total tourist vacation. June 1987---Lurking Fear with Rick Skidmore. Loved the last few pitches up to the cave with grass filled cracks. March 1988---Salathe Wall with Chuck Blackwell. A very cold, very fun time. June 1991---the Dorn with Rick Skidmore. We stopped at Mammoth Terraces but the 2 days getting there had super fun thin (old A4) slab hooking. April 1992---the Zodiac with Rick Skidmore. Done on my schools spring break (from teaching). Cool rock. July 1992---original line of the Wall of the Early Morning Light with Rick Skidmore. Took 7+ days, just touring along having a wonderful time. I loved the dowels. August 1992---repeated the Nose with Phil Dyment. 2+days. What a great climb. July 1993---the Pacific Ocean Wall with Rick Skidmore. 9+days. Although we were scenic cruising as usual, it was very hard for us, and very scary. Very satisfying. July 1995--- East Buttress. | |
| Posted May 12, 2003 10:57 pm | ||
| TodoVertical | Route Climbed: East Buttress Date Climbed: Sept. 2000 | |
| Our first idea was to climb Lurking Fear. But we were not fast enough so it would have meant carrying tons of water up the face. That September was really hot indeed, averaging 42ºC. We went for the east buttress and enjoyed it very much. | |
| Posted Dec 4, 2002 2:40 pm | ||
| kullaberg | Route Climbed: muir wall Date Climbed: may 92 | |
| fine climb. no horror pitches. fantastic situations in upper dihedral. very long and time consuming route. don't miss the lower section below mammoth terraces, must folks climb free blast instead, bad idea. if you're doing the muir, do it from the ground. | |
| Posted Nov 27, 2002 10:20 pm | ||
| kullaberg | Route Climbed: dihedral wall Date Climbed: may 90 | |
| lots of nailing in awkward corners (if you're right handed). perfect solitude on the big stone. one bivy ledge on entire climb. some gnarly pitches up top, weird and wide. | |
| Posted Nov 27, 2002 10:16 pm | ||
| kullaberg | Route Climbed: zodiac Date Climbed: sept 89 | |
| steep and exposed. pitch three was my hardest lead. some hooking, many fixed heads, grey corner very estethic. mark of zorro had shifty blocks. cool, unexpected free climbing off peanut ledge. | |
| Posted Nov 27, 2002 10:12 pm | ||
| kullaberg | Route Climbed: salathe wall Date Climbed: june 89 | |
| more adventurous than the nose, and overall slightly harder. hollow flake way committing lead. headwall super awesome. good bivy spacing, no ledges needed. free blast overrated, only degrading feature on a stellar route. | |
| Posted Nov 27, 2002 10:08 pm | ||
| kullaberg | Route Climbed: the nose Date Climbed: may 89 | |
| enough said about this one | |
| Posted Nov 27, 2002 10:05 pm | ||
| kullaberg | Route Climbed: east buttress Date Climbed: may 89 | |
| good pitches, bad pitches, some tricky routefinding, some vegetation. popular. better than the east buttress of middle. | |
| Posted Nov 27, 2002 10:03 pm | ||
| asmrz | Route Climbed: East Buttress IV, 5.10A Date Climbed: Memorial Weekend 1982 | |
| Miguel Carmona and I climbed the route in 1982, in some 6 hours with 2.5 hours to get down. The East Buttress is one of the classic early climbs in Yosemite and today it's a bit neglected. It should not be. It's a good route on good rock and in great location. | |
| Posted Nov 15, 2002 10:23 pm | ||
| mchristie | Route Climbed: Native Son Date Climbed: September 8-16 2002 | |
| Native Son is an amazing climb on the Southeast face of El cap. The route climbs the center of the Southeast face on solid golden Granite. The only Diorite encountered on the route is on the "coral sea" pitch. The climbing on this pitch is characterized by continious hooking on loose flakes. The Wing pitch is another memorable lead. An easy crack leads to a string of rivets and heads out a huge roof making for the steepest pich on el cap. For 100' your feet will never touch the wall!! Interesting aid that demands your attention characterizes most of the climbing on this route. This is great route on a great part of the wall. Enjoy!!! | ||
| Posted Oct 15, 2002 4:04 pm | ||
| Craig Peer | Route Climbed: The Shield Date Climbed: 1984 VI, 5.10, A4 | |
| This was ( still is ?) the classic cool aid route. The great roof was scary ( fixed creaky crap ready to blow ) and the 700' overhanging headwall is amazing! My last trip up the Capitan! | |
| Posted Sep 23, 2002 10:49 am | ||
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