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El Taillon in the Mist
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El Taillon in the Mist

 
El Taillon in the Mist

Page Type: Album

Image Type(s): Alpine Climbing

 

Page By: ojo

Created/Edited: Sep 23, 2010 / Oct 6, 2011

Object ID: 664382

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Page Score: 86.75% - 5 Votes 

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El Taillon or Punta Negra, from the Refuge “Goriz” – summer ascent

 
El Taillon, Falsa Brecha and El Dedo.
Views from the Gruta.

El Tailon is often sited as “one of the most accesible and most frequently climbed of the three thousand metre Pyrenean peaks”. This usually refers to the ascent from France (Gavarnie) - a short 1h 45m from the Sarradets refuge and 560m of ascent. A route which can be extremely busy at any time of year.

From the Spanish side, via the Ordesa valley & the Góriz refuge it’s longer and less frequented. Ascent 1,100m and minimum 4 hours to the summit (we took somewhat longer). For us, doing the route in mid-summer, there were two main advantages to the “classic” approach: We had the route virtually to ourselves, and we didn’t have the horrendous six snakey-mountain-road-hours drive to Gavarnie in France.

Day One.

 
Signpost at the Cola de Caballo.
Sign to Goriz.

Day One: Home - Torla - La Pradera – Cola de Caballo waterfall - Goríz Refuge.
Bus from Torla to La Pradera. Walk into Valley. 3 hours to the hut. 860m ascent. Light rain during the ascent. Very heavy rain just as we step over the threshold. Very heavy rain all night long.

Day Two

 
Environs, Goriz.
Setting out from Goríz

Day Two: Goríz – Brecha de Roldan – Taillon – Goríz – La Pradera – Torla – Home. Ascent: 1,100m. Descent (to la Pradera) 1,960m. Our timing: 11h 30m.

Starting late (9pm) thanks to the rain, the ascent is shrouded in mist for most of the morning. Crossing the river behind the hut after all the night-before’s rain is our first challenge. Then easy tracks towards el Llano (“the flat”) and continue westward to circle the Plana de San Fertús. Our aim is the Cuello or Shoulder del Descargador at 2,488m. From there, our path turns N and climbs over (wet) rock to gain a rock outcrop. First views of the stunning Brecha de Rolando, el Casco and, to the left, our peak. From here, we found it difficult to follow the cairned route but we get to the next point of reference: La Gruta Helada de Casteret (2,680m). Finding ourselves on a scree slope – and very behind schedule already – we don’t detour to visit this infamous cave.

Avoiding the route NE towards the col - Collata os Sarrios (for El Casco/Coral Ziego) - we had planned to take the higher route passing the protected (cable) section - Clavejas de os Sarrios - but when wet, not advisable. We manage to drop down on to the lower scree path below the Brecha just as more mist rolls in. From the Brecha to Taillon – 1 hour. We nearly don’t continue, thanks to the mist. Passing El Dedo pinacle is best done on the French side (somewhat exposed, though we saw nothing but mist below us). No summit shots, just white-out. A long, long way home, including returning to La Pradera and just missing the last (10pm) bus out of the park. A kind park ranger rescued us at 11pm. Then, only a two hour drive home.

Images


Ordesa from the ascent to Goríz.

Ordesa from the ascent to Goríz.

El Taillon - Falsa Brecha

El Taillon - Falsa Brecha

El Dedo. Route to El Taillon.

El Dedo. Route to El Taillon.

Brecha de Rolando from Paso os Sarrios

Brecha de Rolando from Paso os Sarrios

Above the Goríz refuge

Above the Goríz refuge

El Taillon, El Dedo, La Brecha de Rolando

El Taillon, El Dedo, La Brecha de Rolando

The path to Goriz refuge from valley.

The path to Goriz refuge from valley.

El Tailon and El Dedo.

El Tailon and El Dedo.

Goríz Hut, Ordesa in August

Goríz Hut, Ordesa in August

El Taillon

El Taillon

Brecha Rolando & El Casco

Brecha Rolando & El Casco

El Taillon, Falsa Brecha and El Dedo.

El Taillon, Falsa Brecha and El Dedo.

Near the Gruta de Casternet

Near the Gruta de Casternet

Ascent of Taillón from Goriz.

Ascent of Taillón from Goriz.

Brecha Rolando (Spanish side)

Brecha Rolando (Spanish side)



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