Monks Abbots Canons Reverends & Priests OVERVIEWMountains Abbots & Abbés
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Qui invece siam nel 1779 (!), ovver 86 anni prima. Dal Glacier de Proz salgon il canalone di neve tra l'Aiguille du Velan e la Quota 3670 metri, subito a Nord della calotta ghiacciata della Cima, appoggiando dopo circa due terzi di salita a destra sulle rocce della stessa. Questo é il canale centrale tra i tre che l'alquanto estesa Faccia presenta sopra il medesimo ghiacciaio; una breve traversata a Sud tramite i pendii glaciali li porta ad effettuare sta bella conquista. La vicina Cresta Ovest-sudovest, risalente dal Colle di Annibale (2992 m), viene percorsa da altri due Monaci dello Ospizio, D'Allèves e Marquis, in discesa dalla Sommità nell'Estate del 1826 ed anche la prima salita invernale assoluta della montagna porta una firma clericale: son l'Abate Pantaléon Bovet con Evanzio Blanc e Valérien Jaccod, tutti e tre Valdostani, che il 28 Dicembre del 1904 l'effettuano partendo addirittura dall'Alpe Champillon e tramite la Sella di Faceballa e la Cresta Sud nella parte terminale. Ma di questi Preti Alpinisti nelle Alpi potremmo citarne a centinaia. Anche l'Emilius ha avuto i suoi, sia nelle esplorazioni che nello studio naturalistico ed astronomico, nella fotografia e nella divulgazione; successivamente son arrivati i Preti "più Alpinisti", alla ricerca ed alla scoperta di nuove "strade".
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The Great Mountaineering Abbots & Placenames
We meet for a moment our protagonists of the Nineteenth and Twentieth Century.
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Incontriam per un attimo i nostri protagonisti del XIX° e del XX° Secolo.
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Abbots, Monks, Priests, Canons, Curates & Reverends
Pierre Chanoux. First ascent absolute, lone, of the Bec Costazza (3092m), in Summer 1848, through the interminable Urtier Walloon and Northeast face in terminal part and of the Peak Garin /3461m), with Reverend Pierre Chamonin starting directly from Aosta and unknown route (most likely via the West-northwest Ridge certainly climb later in 1875 by Cesare Pavese) in the Summer of 1856.
* Abbot on Little Saint Bernard Hill. * Born in Chardonney of Champorcher Valley, April 3th, 1828 - + dead in La Thuile, February 10th, 1909. Was a Abbot, mountaineer and botanist. In existance a statue of Abbot Pierre Chanoux mail to the hill in the village of Little St. Bernardo. Taken soon the priestly life. In 1859 he was appointed Rector of the Hospice of the Little Saint Bernard, then in Italian territory. Strong and enthusiast Mountaineering, was one of the first members Aosta Section (1866) of the nascent Italian Alpine Club (Turin 1863). A lover of botany, was in contact with famous people of this branch of science (Henry Correvon and Lino Vaccari) and created at the Piccolo San Bernardo a Botanical Garden which then took the name of Chanousia.
** Companion mountain of Abbots Gorret, Henry and Canon Carrel was ready to help the travelers in the storm, in the company of his beloved dog to whom he had given the name of Rutor as the great glacier that was in front of him, he was a lover, as well as that the plants and flowers, of all animals, even those not allowed. He was also Historian and Archaeologist and engaged in the preservation of works like the old Roman Road towards the Gaul but also exhibits far more ancient Celtic origin. He died at the Hospice in 1909. It rests in the small chapel on the hill, close to the things that were most dear: the Hospice and "his Chanousia Garden".
Pierre Balthazard Chamonin. Born in Valgrisenche 1804 and died in St. Pierre 1895, Mountaineer and Writer: first ascent absolute on Summit of the Tersiva Point (3515m) along via the North-northwest Ridge with a unknown student August 23th, 1842 and in 1856 that of the Peak Garin, together with the Abbot Pierre Chanoux, starting directly from the Aosta Town.
* Curate of the Hamlet of Cogne, he was Pastor of thys Valley without interruption for 57 years and along with Pierre-Louis Vescoz and the Rector Jean-Pierre Carrel founded the "Petite Société Alpine de Cogne". Besides to this, is the Author of "Notices sur la vallée de Cogne, de Traditions populaires et historiques de Cogne" (or "Records of the Valley of Cogne, popular and historical traditions Cogne") and especially remarkable volume "Géographie du Pays d’Aoste" (or "Geography Country Aosta") 1870, written in collaboration with Jean-Pierre Carrel abbots and Pierre-Louis Vescoz. In addition, being himself native of "Valgrisenza" we learn from his Biography about the story of the wolf in Aosta Valley for an incident in 1815, when it was more than authorized favored hunting this animal, at a predation cattle that had involved a young Valgrisenche: "arrivait soudain a loup et une brebis emporte him. Que faire? The arracher him? The ne pouvait the faire à son âge, onze ans ... suddenly came a wolf and a sheep carries him. What to do? The snatch him? The could not do in the age eleven years ... ".
** He was dedicated to a hill between the Cresta Gastaldi and Punta Ceresole (3698m), as stated in "Gran Paradiso National Park", Guide Book of the C.A.I., Edit. 1939, 1963, 1980, page 193: "So named in honor of archpriest P.B. Chamonin, pastor of Cogne, which contributed greatly to the knowledge of the Gran Paradiso.".
Aimé or Amé Gorret. He participated in the conquest of the Matterhorn in 1965 from the Italian Slope by "Cresta del Leone". Also nicknamed "l'Ours de la Montagne" (The Bear of the Mountain) for its exceptional vigor and physical strength. It allowed him to apostrophe as "bouric" (donkey), the King of Italy that usually accompanied it.
* Before ascension, ascent and descent, on the Southeast Side of Peak Garin with J.P. Carrel and four boys, August 23th, 1866 and in the same summer the first ascent of the Northwest Ridge of Bec Costazza starting from Cogne-Lillaz and through Fenêtre of Champorcher.
Born October 26th, 1836 in Valtournanche, son of Jean-Antoine Gorret and Marie-Véronique Carrel. Amé is his name in the patois language of "Valtornenza". He went to study at the Seminary in Aosta Town, receiving orders May 25th, 1861. In August of the same year in Champorcher Valley, the site of his first Parish, he met the king Vittorio Emanuele II°, with whom he later came to create a friendship mainly due to the common passion for the mountains and contempt towards the formalisms of political life of the time.
** Priest very uncomfortable for the costumes of the period, was often transferred to the sudden and without the possibility of replication of the parish. In 1864 it passed from Champorcher to be later transferred to Saint Pierre Parish, in the following year, in Cogne Valley. He participated in the rope a climbers group on 17th July of the same year, together with Jean-Antoine Carrel, Jean-Baptiste Bich and Jean-Augustin Meynet made the first Italian ascent of the Cervino or Matterhorn, but known as the "Gran Becca" to Breuil. Its not to continue, assuring with Meynet his teammates in the crux of the climb, let this great victory, preceded only three days after the first ascent absolute direct by the Englishman Edward Whymper.
*** In addition to the first ascent of the Pic du Retour and in August 24th, 1865, with the renowned Geologist Martino Baretti, George Carrel, and two Mountain Porters, starting from Cogne, made the first ascent of the Col de Teleccio (3304m), while on August 17th, 1866 Always with the Baretti and P. Carrel, made the first ascent of the East Face of the Tower Lavina (3308m).
Besides to this, the quality of his writing Studious see him, along with Claude-Nicolas Baron Bich, the first guide on the Valley of Aosta will be edited by Casanova in Turin in 1876 under the title: "Guide de la Vallée d'Aoste", and three years later, the same publisher, publish: "Victor Emanuel sur les Alpes".
In 1866 he was transferred to the Parish of Valgrisanche and later, between 1869 and 1880 changed often home with allocating a little mountain parishes, and was also a Teacher in the Seminary, always cultivating his passion for the mountains, often opposed by the Church. He had, by the Italian Alpine Club to which he belonged as writing to the Section of Aosta, the opportunity to meet many important figures of the era of Mountaineering. Since 1881 he found himself in the Dauphiné happy to go to get acquainted with new mountains to 1884 years when the French Government decided to repatriate all foreign priests. Later he became Rector of Saint- Jacques des Allemands right at the end of the Stream Evançon Valley, where he had been deliberately "outcast". In 1902 he became ill in and opered on the eyes in Turin in 1903, but his condition worsened increasingly; in 1905 he was transferred back to the Priory of Saint Jacquême of Saint Pierre. Here he died November 4th, 1907. In addition to Abbé Gorret was also called "l'Ours de la montagne, the Ermite of Saint-Jacques and Le Grand Gorret".
Jean-Georges Carrel. Canon of the Collegiate Church of St. Ours, was known as "the Friend of the English" for his multiple skills with climbers from across the Channel, Tyndall and Whymper included. Naturalist and, above all, Botanist, Photographer and Scholar of the Group Emilius. He accompanied the fourteen Emilia Argentier on this mountain in 1839 proposing, in his honor, the name that currently exists. Founder of the Section of C.A.I. Aosta in 1866, the second in Italy, of which he became Honorary President for life. He died in 1870, the year in which the Abbot Henry was born in Courmayeur, and he was devoted to the name of Becca di Nona as well as the underlying Hill. This was unsuccessful, while the latter still bears his name.
* He was born in Châtillon November 21th, 1800 and died May 23th, 1870 in Aosta Town, his childhood and early youth were held in Valtournenche, at the foot of the Matterhorn. Then he went down in Aosta to continue his studies in the College Saint -Bénin and then the Major Seminary. Became Canon of St. Ours May 18th, 1826 and Priest on 11th June 1826 his ecclesiastical career was confirmed August 24th, 1868 with the Prior to the appointment of the Collegiate Church of Sant'Orso. Moreover, he graduated in Law at the University of Turin on 8th July 1834 and taught Natural Sciences and Law in Aosta.
** In 1841 he collaborated with the newspaper "La Feuille d'annonces d'Aoste" and then with "The Indépendant" the "La Feuille d'Aoste" as well as the Swiss periodical "La Gazette du Simplon" and "La Bibliothèque Universelle de Genève".
He participated in the founding of the "Académie of Saint-Anselme", incorporated March 29th, 1855 and the "Société de la Flore Valdôtaine" in 1858, the latter devoted to the study of the Flora of the Aosta Valley and the collection of his herbarium. He was also a member of the "Société Géologique de France" and the "Société des Sciences Naturelles Helvétique". His passion for Scientific Studies led him to construct, at its expense, a Meteorological Observatory in Aosta, used for 30 years, because he worked from 1840 to 1870 with 30 other weather stations in data collection. Always his own pocket built the shelter-house of Comboé in the walloon with the same name in altitude about 2100 metres, hosting scientists, mountaineers but also simple hikers who ascended the Becca of Nona, or passing to the Mount Emilius.
He was a friend of Richard Henry Budden, the famous mountaineer and philanthropist, of Professor James David Forbes and in June 30th, 1859 he received the visit of the famous mountaineer Francis Fox Tuckett who appreciated courtesy and scientific expertise, a few years later he accompanied Professor John Tyndall on Matterhorn.
*** Multifaceted and versatile Genius, he was a Designer and alpine Photographer, Scientist lover of Chemistry, Physics and of Astronomy and even to the Music.
William Auguste Brevoort Coolidge. This, too, Reverend American Scholar, Theologian and Mountaineer quite famous throughout Europe, has deigned the little Group of Mount Emilius with its passage. It was August 3th, 1891 when, along with Frederick Gardiner (1850-1919) and the Swiss Guides Christian Almer and Rudolf of the famous Dynasty of the Almer, it made the first ascent of the absolute of the Western Red Emilius's Point going up from the Walloon of Grauson-Lussert, Pas du Valaisan and South-southwest Crest uphill and downhill.
Coolidge was born in New York 28th, 1850, as the son of Frederick William Skinner Coolidge, a merchant of Boston, and the Dutch Lady Elisabeth Neville Brevoort. Died in Grindelwald (Switzerland, Bern Canton), where it rests, the day May 8th, 1926.
He accomplished studies in History and Law in the School of St. Paul's in Concord, New Hampshire, Elizabeth College, Guernsey, and Exeter College, Oxford. In 1875 he became a Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford. From 1880/1881 he was professor of British History at the College of Saint David in Lampeter and in 1883 he became a Priest of the Anglican Church. In 1870, at the age of twenty years-old, he was appointed a Member of the Alpine Club. Coolidge was one of the great figures of the so-called silver Age of alpinism, making first ascents of the few significant summits of the Alps that had not been climbed during the golden age of Mountaineering. On many of these climbs was accompanied by her aunt, Meta Brevoort, and a pet dog, Tschingel, given to him by one of his very strong Swiss Mountain Guides, Christian Almer (* Grindelwald, March, 29th, 1826 + Grindelwald, May 17th, 1898) and with the his son Ulrich ((* Grindelwald May 08th, 1849 + September 04th, 1940).
* A man of great culture, as well as a deep knowledge of the mountain, he made ascents over the whole of the Alps, almost always accompanied by his favorite Swiss Guides: the Almer. Famous and known throughout Europe and not only, he was a climber among the strongest and enterprising of the era. Countless his climbs while, from the point of view of culture, collaborated with all the journals and monthly magazines of the various European Alpine Clubs with articles of mountain and accurate reports and remarks. We give here a small portrait of his much broader overview Mountaineering.
First ascents by the Reverend.
** Had done the first ascent of the following mountains:
Pizzo Badile (Masino/Bondasca Valleys-Bregaglia Walloon), July 27th, 1867, with Francis and Henry Devouassoud Mountain Guides Chamonix.
Ailefroide (Dauphiné Alps, Massif des Écrins), July 7th, 1870, with Swiss Mountain Guides Christian Almer and Ulrich Almer.
Central Peak of the Point of the Meije (Dauphiné Alps, in Massif des Écrins) 1870, Meta Brevoort and three Guides
Unterbächhorn (Oberwallis) 1872.
Montagne des Agneaux, July 17th, 1873, with Christian Almer and Christian Roth.
Aiguilles d'Arves Central Summit (Rhone Region, in Dauphiné Alps), July 10th, 1874.
Western Summit of The Droites (Mount Blanc), July 16th, 1876, with Christian and Ulrich Almer.
Peak Coolidge, July 14th, 1877, with Christian and Ulrich Almer.
Les Bans, July 14th, 1878, with Christian and Ulrich Almer.
Aiguilles d'Arves Southern Summit (Rhone Region, in Dauphiné Alps), 1878.
Aiguille de Chambeyron, July 28th, 1979, with Christian Almer and Ulrich.
Mount Matto, August 14th, 1879 with Christian Almer and Ulrich.
Mount Argentera (in Maritime Alps), August 18th, 1879, with Christian Almer and Ulrich.
Mount Visolotto/Peaks Coolidge and Lanino (in Cottian Alps), July 31th, 1881, with the Mountain Guides Christian and Ulrich Almer.
Punta Gastaldi (in Gran Paradiso Group), August 16th, 1884, with Christian Almer.
Testa della Tribolazione (in Gran Paradiso Group) through Northeast Crest, August 11th, 1885, with George Yeld and the Mountain Guides C. Almer, S. Henry and J. Jeantet.
Scherbadung or Mount Cervandone (in Lepontine Alps), 1886.
Chüebodenhorn (Ticino/Wallis Cantons, Lepontine Alps, in Rotondo Group) 1892.
*** Has made the first ascent of the following routes:
The North Face (Coolidge Couloir) of the Barre des Écrins Dauphiné Alps), July 4th, 1870, with Christian Almer and Ulrich Almer Christian Gertsch.
First winter of Jungfrau (Bern/Wallis Cantons, in Oberland Massif), January 1874, with Christian and Ulrich Almer.
Southwest Slope of Mount Pelvoux, (Dauphiné Alps, in Massif des Écrins)(Coolidge Couloir, normal route), July 15th, 1881, with Christian Almer and Ulrich.
North Wall of Monviso (Coolidge Couloir), in Cottian Alps, July 28th, 1881, with Christian Almer and Ulrich.
**** Its name in the Alps. He left his name to various mountains and alpine passes:
Pic Coolidge (3774m): at the foot of the Barre of Écrins, Oisans Group in France.
Top Coolidge: Northern and the highest summit of Pic d' Olan, Oisans, always in France.
Collar Coolidge: between the Corno Stella and Point Gelas Lourousa, Maritime Alps, in Italy.
Coolidge Couloir: forced passage of the standard route of ascent to Mount Pelvoux, Oisans, in France.
Coolidge Couloir: on the North Wall of the Barre of Écrins, Oisans, in France.
Glacier Coolidge and Gully Coolidge to Monviso, in Cottian Alp, in Italy.
Joseph-Marie Henry. He made the first ascent of all the ridges of Mount Emilius (East and West 1902 North-Northeast Corner 1906) except that the "Three Capuchin" which took place on the first sssoluta Mountain (1832), and also with Grégoire Comé the first of ascendione Southwest ridge of Peak Garin (1902).
Joseph- Marie Henry was born in Courmayeur, March 10th, 1870 and the son of a Mountain Guide of Mot Blanc, was a Priest, Botanist and Mountaineer in the Aosta Valley, known as "the Abbé Henry".
First assistant Pastor in Cogne Valley, collaborated with the Abbot Pierre Chanoux to the creation of the "Alpine Garden Chanousia" at the Hill of the Little St. Bernard. In his native Courmayeur wanted to establish another botanical garden. The garden is still in existence and is the park Abbé Henry, in Plan Gorret. He became particularly known and famous when August 5th, 1893 for the first time celebrated the Holy Mass on the Summit of Mount Blanc. Became Pastor of Valpelline Hamlet studied in depth the valley climbed all the peaks of the surroundings giving several names to the different summits . He contributed actively to the "Société de la Flore Valdôtaine", and was president since 1901 until 1941. In July 1931, Henry accomplished ascente very special driving a donkey, "Cagliostro", upto the top of the Gran Paradiso bringing with him a donkey up to the Summit. This climb provoked clamor and curiosity in the world of mountaineering calling the masses to Valsavarenche that mistakenly had become a climb without any danger that much had been accomplished as well by a donkey ... A great boost for Tourism, but certainly not a good image for the "Granpa".
Joseph-Marie Henry died Valpelline suddenly January 1th, 1947, at the age of 77 years, took care of his garden while in the company of his bees.
Important Writer for the History of the Valley of Aosta, but even more so for that of the same Mountaineering, especially in its intrinsic links with the Clergy enthusiast Mountain.
* He contributed to various magazines, not least that of the C.A.I., in which he published articles in the basic study of the mountains with a particular fondness for the Group of Mount Emilius. This is the list of his most important works, bearing in mind that the one on "his" Valpelline is then fundamental to the preparation of Mountain Guides Facebooks, including those of the Series C.A.I./T.C.I. with the Pennine Alps Vol I° and II°. In chronological order of publication: " Valpelline et sa vallée" 1913, "Guide de Valpelline" 1925, "Histoire populaire, civil et religieuse de la Vallée d'Aoste" 1929, "Cagliostro: l'asino che scalò il Gran Paradiso" 1931, "Reconnaissances et inféodation dans la Valpelline (Seigneurie de Quart) en 1500" 1938.
** In order to pass, and rightly so, his memory of Mountaineer and Scholar of "his" Valpelline Gino Buscaini in "Pennine Alps Volume II", page 571, has dedicated to him a mountain between the Comba Dèche and to Verdzignola Walloon (to Southeast of Valpelline) and the watershed Saint Barthelemy/Valpelline, between Becca Conge and the Eastern Top of Tsaat à l'Etsena. Paradoxically, in his crossing of the September 02th, 1912 through Saint Barthélemy Hill the Abbot made the first ascent of the Becca Conge (2954m) to reach the same "virgin" East Point of Tsaat (about 2974/5m), while avoiding under ridge to East what would become "his Top" (2918m). The same was reached, without finding any signal on the Summit , by Osvaldo Cardellina and Joseph Lamazzi August 20th, 1978 using the same route then extended also to the Pass and the Beaks of Fana. Even the latter (2951m) were achieved for the first time by the Abbé, with away from the South in August 12th, 1912, during an attempt towards the Tsaat à l'Etsena; Point Western of the same, considered erroneously higher (about 2967 metres) was climb for the first time by the same July 13th, 1923, in this neglected sector of the mountains of which he was certainly the first and only explorer. Moreover, in addition to these small mountains lesser-known explorations of Valpelline, he was also a skilled mountaineer climbing all the most famous peaks of the Valley of Aosta: the Mount Blanc, where he celebrated Mass at the Summit, the Giant's Tooth, Velan, Grand Combin, Matterhorn, Grivola and the Gran Paradiso and the Grand Nomenon, the two latter in the Winter.
*** A nice firm realized it down in August 1892 alone, after a short stretch on the West Ridge, the still "virgin" and steep North Face of the Grand Golliaz (3237m) through the Rib of the Right or West on the Glacier des Angroniettes. Also notable is the exploration activities in the small Range of the Arolletta above Dzovenno and Ru(z) Villages:
July 17th, 1905 first ascent of the South Ridge High Point North of Arolletta (about 3060m) and the first crossing from East to West of the Pas du Chamois (3015m approx), with the Abbot Pantaléon Bovet and Valérien Jaccod.
September 27th, 1906, into Luseney Group, first ascent on Southwest Face and first descent South-southwest Crest of Mount Redessau, Southeastern Summit (3237m), to Praterier Carving.
On August 4th, 1913 with the Guide Théodule Forclaz first ascent on Aiguille of Arolletta (2700m approx), with also first crossing from East to West Duc Pass (about 2635m). Also on the same day the first ascent of the Punta Bishop Joseph-Auguste Duc (2810m) via the Southeast Ridge.
In Luseney Group, July 13th, 1914, lone, first ascent of Brèche Bovard (about 2860m), between Gendarmes des Rayes Planes/Becca Bovard, through Southwestern Slope, with Mountain Guide Théodule Forclaz, arriving from Pointe de l'Artse, first ascent absolute of Becca Bovard (2983m). The same, then still unnamed, was dedicated to his friend and fellow climbs Alexis Bovard, Curate of Rhemes, who died a few days later in a tragic way near the Chamonin Pass into Gran Paradiso, August 06th, 1914. Moreover, August 31th, 1914, first ascent, lone, South Face Mount Redessau Northwest Top (3253m) and aerial traverse to Southeast Summit.
Ascension to the Pas du Chamois repeated August 20th, 1918 Guide Théodule Forclaz and first ascent of Bec Noir of Arolletta (about 3030m) via the small East Wall.
Before crossing the Col du Grand Barmé (about 2720m), from August 01th, 1919, only.
First ascent absolute of Vierge de l' Arolletta (about 2960m), September 5th, 1919 with the Abbot Victor Anselmet, via the North Ridge.
First ascent of the Tour du Freyty (about 2317m), with Pierre Nicolet September 28th, 1921, from the North Crest.
**** A statue in the main square of Courmayeur dedicated to him, close to the Museum of the Mountain Guides, reminiscent of his work in his native country, at the foot of Mount Blanc Mountain Chain, from which he started to do his work of Abbot and popularizer of the Mountain. All generations climbing, in addition to the "Friends of the British" that made the visit, the post-war period to the First World War have consulted with him, considering their "Guardian Numen".
Pantaléon Bovet. Along with Henry, Bonin and Engineer Nino Tofani first ascent, as head of the roped, the North-Northeast Edge of Mount Emilius August 2th, 1906.
Excellent and very strong climber who Abbé Henry in "RM C.A.I" 1908 page 114 called: "really an expert of the chamois and the mountains".
* He was dedicated by the British mountaineer Mount Ross then became Becca Bovet (3443m), the same Thopham with the Swiss Guides Jean Maitre and Pierre Maurys made the first ascent of this peak, July 22th, 1896. He was also dedicated to the nearby hill (3240m, between Bovet and Becca Becca des Lacs.
Native from the Village of Bionaz, was also Pastor of Doues Parish Church and from the Pastures overlying Champillon made the first winter ascent, in December 28th, 1904, of Mount Velan (3734m), but here was "playing" in his house.
July 17th, 1905 first ascent of the South Ridge High Point North of Arolletta (about 3060m) and the first traverse from East to West of Pas du Chamois (about 3015m), with the Abbot Joseph-Marie Henry and Valérien Jaccod.
** Moreover Pastor of Bionaz, Pantaléon Bovet (* Bionaz 1860 + 1917), who in his free time parish ministry exercised by a carpenter and devoted himself to hunting. As for his talent as a carpenter was written that he was " ... un prêtre fort industrieux; il avait un goût prononcé pour l'apiculture et pour la menuiserie qu'il connaissait à merveille" ... "A very industrious priest, he had a taste for beekeeping and carpentry he knew perfectly ... ". In the Parish house of Bionaz keeps some furniture he built.
Jean "Louis" Bonin. Second man in clerical consortium in 1906. Known as "Louis", in fact his name was Jean.
* "That giant by Roisan", as defined by the Engineer Nino Tofani in "RM 1907", which in its early days in the mountains, joined the roped of Professor Grasselli and Mountain Guides Courmayeur Alessio Proment and Gadin accompany Achille Ratti, the future Pope-Mountaineer (Pio XI 1922-1939), in the ascent of Mount Blanc July 31th, 1890 from Sella refuge, with the first descent on the Bionnassay Ridge.
O. Crétaz. Of this Reverend, as the next Blanc, we do not know the exact name, but only the first letter. You should perform a more thorough search by consulting the "Revue Lyonnaise", XIII, p. 207, 1906 and "RM by C.A.I. 1907", pag. 67, not currently in our possession.
* First ascent of the West Face of the Great Roise rejoining, in the end, the Way of 1875 or Northern Ridge, in the first complete ascent of the mountain. Moreover Curate of Champorcher Village is no news of him in 1900 with the monograph "Flore de Champorcher" in "Le Duche d'Aoste", page 41, for which there are exactly the same considerations
N. Blanc. Equivalent to the speech that Reverend Crétaz. The two were the first to explore the Mountain Chain of Roise on the Western Faces, also Laures Slopes, from Grand Roise Pass or Great Brissogne to Leppe Hill, then Becca of Salé excluded, in August 10th, 1906.
Reverend Bionaz. Pastor of the small Parish of Saint Nicolas, Botanical and lover of Photography, was a decent Hiker, friend of Abbé Henry, who was delighted with his camera, mounted on a tripod rudimentary carrying it with them to the top, to photograph the mountains of the Aosta Valley. It was not a climber, says the Abbé talking about the fact that you can get off on that day the virgin North-northeast Edge of Emilius in 1902: "But to do that it was necessary to have a little more time and be the three. Now, we were reduced to two because the narrow and thin ridges between two precipices are not the sympathy of the rev. Bionaz ... ".
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First Walkers & Hickers, then Guides, Priests & Climbers
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These abbots, however, learned to love the mountain and it is getting closer and closer with Spirit different. Then they learned to immortalize (what else could they do the Priests?) with the art of Photography. Before that, however, with the drawing with pencil, such as the famous "Panorama of the Alps from the Becca di Nona" Canon Carrel Jean-Georges in 1861. He made the rounds of all the Europe getting acclaim and a resounding success, giving great impetus to the whole Mountaineering.
It may seem strange, but the first to arrive are simple hikers who also reached the very top of the main, the highest: the Emilius. But when you reach was not called that, was the old Pic du Mont Valé then became Pie (in honor of Pope Pius IX, a name never caught on) and finally Peak of 10 Hours, such as when Giovan Battista Defey, Dr. Lorenzo and Cerise a third unnamed companion join him in the Summer of 1823 as "La Vallée d'Aoste" by Edouard Aubert, page 242 and " tatistics Ferrari" 1908 ; Cerise said: "A l'Age de seize ans, avec mes amis j'avais serious M.M. D ... M ... et une plus élevée peaks, the pic appelé de dix heures depuis quelque temps le Mont Emilius. Peut-etre mes deux amis et moi avons-nous les premiers fait cette ascension .... " . This ascension talks about his son Edoardo Defey "RM C.A.I." 1903 page 73, dated it around 1820 but clearly indicating the ascent route, or the South Ridge of Three Capuchins. So three rookie and errand boys, probably Sunday outing , they get the ultimate goal. Normal "walkers" of the mountain. But when Dr. Cerise said this ascension youth had passed many years and Emilius had also changed the name: Peak of no more than Ten Hours but Monte Emilius in honor of Emilia Argentier, fourteen year old daughter of the Mayor of Aosta at that time, that the Canon Jean-Georges Carrel had accompanied him to the Summit. That same canon that had built a small home-refuge of Comboé that even today, always property of the Priests of Saint Orso, exists and that he had built, just above the ridge dividing the Pila Basin, the little Observatory Astronomical dedicating it to his friend Naturalist Sismonda, of which there are still remnants perimeter. It is a spontaneous inference, namely that if the Carrel in 1839 accompanied Top means that a very young girl was already familiar with the climb to Emilius that in the past sixteen years he was sure he knew more climbs. But the good canon was always simple hiker, while Pierre Baldassarre Chamonin, Curate of Cogne, which in 1842 together with a young student climb Punta Tersiva was already a climber, snow conditions that in these times on Ridge North-northwest walked required quality greater than those that have a simple Hicker. The same is effected in the Summer of 1848, solo, also the first ascent of near Bec Costazza (3092m) from Lillaz and walking along the interminable Walloon of the Urtier; moreover goes for the climb to the Peak Garin conducted by the Abbot Balthazar with Pierre Chanoux in 1856 departing from Aosta, the slope of Arbolle or that of the same combined with that of the Walloon of Arpisson require these skills. So we see the evolution from Priests Trekkers to Priests Mountaineers, still all Explorers but with the emergence of the germ of the conquest of virgin peaks. But even lovers of Science Priests who are not interested in more than just the ascent of the Peak Garin as the ultimate end, but the search Meteorological and Topographical, while the Toponymy is temporarily set aside, because, at that time, perhaps considered unnecessary because the knowledge, and maybe more in a genuine way, was given as a discount factor given the deep knowledge of every part of the mountain, especially in business matters. The head of the Shepherds always gave very precise indication of the place where the boy had to be brought in that day grazing herd. The single boulder had a precise name. Then came the Cartographers, you do not know what part of Italy, and the Pointes Coupées of Arpisson that the pastor was questioned, he called the local brogue as " Couppì Pointes", or cut, they became Punte Coppi and these are still today, after a Century and a half of almost all the cards. With particular that the famous cyclist Fausto Coppi in those days was far from being born! Abbots Ame Gorret, winner of the Italian side of the Matterhorn and nicknamed "L'Ours de la Montagne", together with the Rector Jean Pierre Carrel and three students in Cogne and a guy Laurent by Aosta, rose calm and confident where they were going, at least in the lower part of the route that leads from the old Vieux Grauson to small Walloon of Chaz Fleurie, August 23th, 1866. thought to make the first ascent of the Pic Garin not knowing ascension in 1856 by the Abbots Balthazar Chamonin and Pierre Chanoux, it is true that had been made from Aosta, ie on the other side, but they were well past ten years and it was still of clerics. One can see that the news circulated with a completely different pace! However, the Gorret tells "C.A.I. Bulletin", 1866, n. 7, page 48: " ... In my many long walks in Cogne. Northward an isolated peak first and then disparaissaiit when the climb was a little high, hidden by Mount Emilius. Always when I saw this beautiful pic, I proposed to her ascension, but as no one had set foot on his head, I thought to great difficulties, perhaps insurmountable Finally, August 23th, 1866, I go along with M. Rector Cogne Carrel ... In our first ascent the rector Carrel had been wearing his broken barometer to climb the Lavine August 17th. September 14th I left with Mr. Carrel, wearing his barometer .. . The elevation of peak Garin, calculated on an observation made simultaneously in Cogne would, according to Mr. Carrel, of 3,348 metres ... ". Abbots Mountaineers and Priests Scientists, prepared and thorough, that crossed carefully the information, almost a computer, ... Only that Mr. Barometer was a "Baro" (a Cardsharper, a true Cheat) and stole their more than one hundred meters. The usual obstacles for Science!
The 1875 is a special year, in fact in the Group of Mount Emilius appear first Mountain Guides and also an Officer of the Alpine Troops: July 17th the famous Valtournanche Mountain Guide Jean Antoine Carrel, winner of the Italian Route on Matterhorn via the Cresta del Leone, performs, along with Angelo Decaroli and Albino Lucat, the absolute first ascent of the Great Roise with complete traverse from the Hill of Grand Brissogne; went down at Laures Walloon, the next day continued for the Emilius. On August 9th Cesare Pavese, Officer of the 9° Company Alpine, along with two soldiers climb the Peak Garin by "new route" or the Ridge West-northwest, while September 9th the renowned mountaineer Giuseppe Corona together to Mountain Guide with mule Charvensod Grégoire Comé, exploring the South Slope, discover a new way for the Emilius since then will be called "Corona Passage". Discovery that will never be of much use, because it almost never walked away. They come as the Guides and also ... the Army . Then you will have to wait more than a quarter of a Century to see something new. Then you will have to wait more than a quarter of a Century to see something new. Although, in truth, something had happened because August 3th, 1891 the Reverend really famous American W.A.B. Coolidge had made the first ascent of the absolute Punta Rossa from the Pas du Valaisan: a Protestant Pastor by New York with Frederick Gardiner and two Mountain Guides, Christian and Rudolf Almer, but ... Swiss.
Then the First World War breaks out. He will be speaking only in September 1947, after another World War, with the death of Abbé looked after while his bees in his Valpelline. As if the Church was very sad secluded from human miserable affairs, abandoning forever even the innocent Emilius. There remain only the signals Christians on the Summits, the old house-refuge of Comboé, th'Hermitage of Saint Grat and some small votive chapels. The rest swallowed whole. By Time. That time coming back slowly, slowly to life because buries people, things and events, and never come back, because it does not exist. Yes there are men, but others come and go in their place. This is the Universal Law: to each his own small space. The Emilius remains. Unperturbed and imperturbable, for ever and ever. Then he will have to submit to the law, that does not spare anyone. Priests disappear into thin air. They had their space and have marked him forever. In the Summer of 1914 Hans Entrèves climb to Roise Central, currant Punta Gianni Junod (3300m) is a solo ascent, as he points out, without Mountain Guides, which is a prelude to the recovery. As well as that of Baron E. de Peckoz, however probably with his Guide, August 18th, 1913 that rises from farmhouses to Vauvire to the large rocky couloir between Petite and Grande Roise and then conclude with the North Ridge of the latter. Then for six years older than anything human resources, unfortunately, are all targeted to the war front. Eliminate these putrid airs, Life resumes. Even in the Chain of Emilius. It starts from where it ended, ie from Roèses. The two brothers Jean, of the C.A.A.I., and Carlo d'Entrèves rise August 31th, 1919 the Western Wall of Grande Roise (3356/7m) with a direct route to the right of that of 1906: " ... With fun and varied gymnastics reach the summit in the middle of the storm at 11:30 am. ... ". Life goes on, driven by the storm. On June 24th, 1921 Jean d' Entrèves with Luigi Carrel said "The Carrellino", not yet but only Bearer guide, climbs the great Wall Eastern starting from Grangie (Pastures) of Mulac and also coming to them in the Top 11,30, but had left at 3.00. In the meantime, a new generation is born and brews. In Verrès was born in 1909 Amilcare Crétier, a mountaineer as strong as whimsical, yet impregnated by the philosophy of Nietzsche and the Sturm und Drang that a figure of Guido Lammer emanated and lavished. Thus, almost in contradiction, in the overture of his "Diary Mountaineering 1921-1933: Imitor Epicuri not think Allium Mundum nisi istum they unde In ista short life omnibus madis excellere Studeo, quia aliam megliorem I HOPE NOT ". With it a whole host of young mountaineers Lino Binel, Renato Chabod and Remo, Alexander "Dino", Jean and Emile Charrey, Cino Norat, Marino Guglielminotti that leaning Uncle Michele Baratono, Colonel of the Alpine Troops and listening to the "Guardian Numen" Abbé Henry, will assault of virgin North and East Walls of Emilius. After the first two climbs in 1926 (Binel-Chabod-Crétier) and in 1927 (Binel-Crétier) will be decimated by the misfortunes East Wall on 25th August 1929 and Giant's Tooth in the Summer of 1932. Victory over East Giusto Gervasutti and Renato Chabod June 26th, 1935 depart, partially, these spectra but will always leave open a deep wound in the History of Mountaineering Aosta Valley and of the Emilius. Wartime a nice first winter ascent by the of Trieste Nerino Gobbo in the winter 1940/41, two routes by Adolfo "Dulo" Ourlaz with the Lieutenant of the Alpine Troops Emanuele Tosana and a crossing East/West, complete on Arpisson Basin, by the first with his wife Aurora Wuillerminaz, then the victim of the Nazis, as well as a via in the central couloir by Doctor "Ansel" Falcoz with the Musicologist Massimo Mila Turin close this era in the balance between the two World Wars. Upon completion thereof, the East of the first repeat of two young Pietro "Piero" Rosset and Franco Garda in the Summer of 1946, and the first winter of the same, now become Alpine Guides, on the crest of "Three Curates" open to modern and future horizons in history of this mountain.
In fact, I remember that, while July 8th, 1984 I climbed alone the South Face through the narrow gully with a stunning climb on hard snow and well transformed, on the opposite side on the crest of "Three Capuchins" the Pastor of Sant'Orso, Don Careggio, which climb with a group of guys shouted at me and inviting me to crossing towards this. He climbed the mountain scolding me much from them in order to avoid further danger. It was his duty as a Christian, but me, laughing under his mustache, I continued to climb unabated. He was the last Priest who saw the rise to Emilius was no longer in line with its "adventurous" predecessors. With him, perhaps, disappeared forever Priests, Pastors, Abbots, Curates, Reverends and so & so from this mountain clerical ...
Nel frattempo però le Vette dell'Emilius, della "Becca" ed il Picco Garin eran già state salite. E pur la Tersiva. Rimaneva scontrosa ed in disparte vers'Oriente la Catena delle Roèzes coi suoi antichi ghiacciai, donde il nome, sempre più ridotti e destinati a grandi colate morenico-detritiche, la tanto vicina quanto sconosciuta Punta Rossa, la misteriosa Tour Grauson e quel nugolo di sommità ch'era già gran cosa ch'avessero nome. Altre cime, pur se di facil accesso come la Punta di Leppe e quella della Valletta non risultavan ancor salite; per queste si dovrà attendere in successione il 1875, il 1891, il 1909, il 1893 ed il 1877. Ma il "cuore" del Gruppo era già stato visitato. Da chi?
Può sembrar strano ma i primi ad arrivare sono dei semplici escursionisti che, inoltre, raggiungon proprio la cima principale, la più alta: l'Emilius. Ma quando lo salgon così non si chiamava, era l'antico Pic du Valé poi diventato Mont Pie (in onore al Papa Pio IX, toponimo mai attecchito) ed infine Picco delle 10 Ore, come quando Giovan Battista Defey, il Dottor Lorenzo Cerise ed un terzo non nominato compagno lo raggiungono nell'Estate del 1823 come da "La Vallée d'Aoste" di Edouard Aubert, pagina 242 e da "Statistiche Ferrari", 1908; racconta Cerise: "A l'Age de seize ans, j'avais gravi avec mes amis M. M. D ... et M ... une cime plus élevée, le pic de dix heures appelé depuis quelque temps le Mont Emilius. Peut-etre mes deux amis et moi avons-nous les premiers fait cette ascension. ...". Di questa ascensione ne parla anche il figlio Edoardo Defey in "RM C.A.I." 1903, pagina 73, datandola intorno al 1820 ma indicando chiaramente la via di salita, ovvero la Cresta Sud dei Tre Cappuccini. Quindi tre ragazzotti, probabilmente in gita domenicale, ottengono il massimo obiettivo. Dei comuni "passeggiatori" della montagna. Ma quando il Dottor Cerise racconta di questa ascensione giovanile eran passati ormai molti anni e l'Emilius aveva cambiato pur nome: non più Picco delle Dieci Ore ma Monte Emilius in onore di Emilia Argentier, quattordicenne figlia del Sindaco di Aosta di quel tempo, che il Canonico Jean-Georges Carrel aveva accompagnato alla Cima. Quello stesso Canonico che aveva fatto costruire al Comboé la piccola casa-rifugio che ancor oggi, sempre proprietà dei Preti di Sant'Orso, esiste e che aveva fatto elevare, appen al di sopra sulla cresta spartiacque con la Conca di Pila, il minuscolo Osservatorio Astronomico dedicandolo al suo amico Naturalista Sismonda, del quale esiston ancor oggidì i resti perimetrali. Vien spontanea una deduzione, cioé che se il Carrel nel 1839 accompagnava in Cima una ragazza molto giovane dimostra la sua pratica nella salita all'Emilius che in questi sedici anni doveva sicuramente aver conosciuto ulteriori ascensioni. Però il bravo Canonico sempre semplice Escursionista era, mentre Pietro Baldassarre Chamonin, Curato di Cogne, che nel 1842 insieme a giovane studente saliva la Punta Tersiva era già Alpinista; le condizioni d'innevamento in quei tempi sulla Cresta Nord-nordovest percorsa richiedevano qualità maggiori di quelle proprie d'un semplice Escursionista. Lo stesso effettuò, da solo, anche la prima salita del vicino Bec Costazza (3092 m) partendo da Lillaz e lungo l'interminabile Vallone dell'Urtier. Identico discorso vale anche per la salita effettuata al Pic Garin da parte degli Abati Balthazar Chamonin e Pierre Chanoux nel 1856 con partenza da Aosta; il versante di Arbolle o quello del medesimo combinato con quello del Vallone di Arpisson richiedon ste doti. Quindi assistiam all'evoluzione da Preti Escursionisti a Preti Alpinisti, pur sempre tutti Esploratori ma con l'insorger del germe della conquista di vette vergini. Ma anche Preti amanti della Scienza ai quali non interessa più soltanto l'ascensione del Pic Garin come ultimo fine, bensì la ricerca Metereologica e Topografica, mentre la Toponomastica viene momentaneamente accantonata, anche perché, a quei tempi, forse ritenuta inutile visto che la conoscenza, magari e più in modo genuino, veniva data come fattore scontato vista la profonda conoscenza di ogni luogo della montagna, soprattutto per questioni di lavoro. Il capo dei Pastori dava sempre un'indicazione alquanto precisa al garzone del posto dove doveva in quel giorno essere portata al pascolo la mandria. Anche il singolo masso possedeva un nome ben preciso. Poi vennero i Cartografi, non si sa da quale parte d'Italia, e le Pointes Coupées di Arpisson che il pastore, interrogato, aveva definito con la locale cadenza dialettale come "Pointes Couppì", ovvero tagliate, diventarono Punte Coppi e tali sono ancora oggi dopo un Secolo e mezzo su quasi tutte le Carte. Con il particolare che il famoso ciclista Fausto Coppi a quei tempi era ben lontano da essere nato! Gli Abati Amé Gorret, vincitore del Cervino parte italiana e soprannominato L'Ours de la Montagne", insieme al Rettore Jean Pierre Carrel e tre alunni di Cogne e Laurent un ragazzo di Aosta, salivano tranquilli e sicuri di dove andavano, almeno nella parte bassa della via che dal Grauson Vieux conduce al piccolo Vallone della Chaz Fleurie, il 23 Agosto 1866. Pensavano di effettuare la prima salita del Pic Garin non sapendo dell'ascensione del 1856 da parte degli Abati Balthazar Chamonin e Pierre Chanoux; é vero che era stata effettuata da Aosta, cioé dall'altro lato, ma erano passati ben dieci anni e si trattava pur sempre di clericali. Si vede che le notizie circolavano con tutto un altro ritmo! Comunque il Gorret racconta in "Bollettino C.A.I." 1866, n. 7, pagina 48: " ... Dans mes longues et nombreuses promenades à Cogne. vers le nord un pic isolé d'abord et qui disparaissaiit ensuite lorsque l'ascension était un peu haute, caché par le Mont Emilius. Toujours quand je voyais ce beau pic, je me proposai de faire son ascension; mais comme personne n'avait encore mis le pied sur sa tete, je croyais à des grandes difficultés, peut-etre insurmontables. Enfin, le 23 aout 1866, je pars de Cogne accompagné de M. le recteur Carrel ... A notre première ascension M. le recteur Carrel n'avait pu porter son baromètre cassé à l'ascension de la Lavine le 17 aout. Le 14 septembre je repartis avec M. Carrel, portant son baromètre. ... La hauteur du pic Garin, calculée sur une observation faite simultanément à Cogne serait, d'après M. Carrel, de 3,348 mètres ... ". Preti Alpinisti e Preti Scienziati, preparati e scrupolosi, che incrociavano scrupolosamente le informazioni, quasi un computer, ... Solo che il Signor Barometro era un Baro e rubava loro oltre cento metri. Soliti ostacoli per la Scienza!
Il 1875 é un anno particolare, infatti nel Gruppo del Monte Emilius appaion le prime Guide ed anche un Ufficiale degli Alpini: il 17 Luglio la celebre Guida Alpina di Valtournanche Jean Antoine Carrel, vincitore della Via Italiana al Cervino tramite la Cresta del Leone, compie, insieme ad Angelo Decaroli ed Albino Lucat, la prima ascensione assoluta della Grande Roise con traversata completa dal Colle di Grand Brissogne; scesi alle Laures, il giorno appresso proseguiranno per l'Emilius. Il 9 di Agosto Cesare Pavese, Ufficiale della 9° Compagnia Alpina, insieme a due soldati salgono il Pic Garin "per via nuova" ovvero la Cresta Ovest-nordovest, mentre il 9 di Settembre il famoso alpinista Giuseppe Corona insieme alla Guida con mulo di Charvensod Grégoire Comé, esplorando il Versante Sud, scopron una via nuova per l'Emilius che da allora si chiamerà appunto "Passaggio Corona". Scoperta che non diventerà mai di grande utilità, perché via quasi mai più percorsa. Arrivan così le Guide ed anche ... l'Esercito. Poi si dovrà attendere oltre un quarto di Secolo per veder qualcosa di nuovo. Anche se, per la verità, qualcosa era avvenuto perché il 3 di Agosto 1891 il celeberrimo Reverendo Americano W.A.B. Coolidge aveva effettuato la prima ascensione assoluta della Punta Rossa dal Pas du Valaisan: un Pastore di New York Protestante con Frederick Gardiner e due Guide, Christian e Rudolf Almer, ma ... Svizzere.
Poi scoppierà la Prima Guerra Mondiale. Ne sentirem parlare solo nel Settembre del 1947, dopo un'altra Guerra Mondiale, con la morte dell'Abbé mentre accudiva le sue api nella sua Valpelline. Come se la Chiesa si fosse appartata dalle tristissime e miserevoli vicende umane, abbandonando per sempre anche l'innocente Emilius. Permangon sol segnali Cristiani sulle Sommità, la vecchia casa-rifugio al Comboé, l'Eremo di San Grato ed alcune cappellette votive. Il resto tutto ingoiato. Dal Tempo. Quel tempo che torna pian, piano alla Vita perché seppellisce uomini, cose ed eventi e mai più ritorna, perché non esiste. Gli uomini sì esistono, ma passano ed arrivano altri al lor posto. Questa é la Legge Universale: ad ognuno il suo piccolo spazio. L'Emilius rimane. Imperturbato ed imperturbabile, nei secoli dei secoli. Poi anche lui dovrà sottomettersi alla Legge, che non risparmia nessuno. Spariscono nel nulla i Preti. Hanno avuto il lor Spazio e lo han marcato per sempre. Nella Estate del 1914 Hans d'Entrèves sale alla Roise Centrale, attuale Punta Gianni Junod (3300 m); é una salita solitaria, come lui sottolinea senza Guide, preludente alla ripresa. Così come quella del Barone E. de Peckoz, invece probabilmente con le sue Guide, che il 18 Agosto 1913 sale dai casolari di Vauvire verso il grande canale tra Petite e Grande Roise per poi concludere con la Cresta Nord di quest'ultima. Poi per sei anni più nulla: le risorse umane, purtroppo, son tutte destinate al fronte di guerra. Eliminate queste putride arie, la Vita riprende. Anche nella Catena dell'Emilius. Si riparte da dove s'era terminato, cioé dalle Roèses. I due fratelli Jean, del C.A.A.I., e Carlo d'Entrèves salgono il 31 Agosto 1919 la Parete Occidentale della Grande Roise (3356/7 m) con una via diretta, a destra di quella del 1906: " ... Con divertente e variata ginnastica raggiungiamo la vetta in mezzo alla bufera alle ore 11,30. ...". La vita riprende, sospinta dalla bufera. Il 24 di Giugno 1921 Jean d'Entrèves con Luigi Carrel detto "il Carrellino", non ancora Guida ma solo Portatore, sale la grande Parete Est partendo dalle Grangie di Mulac ed arrivando anche lor in Cima per le 11,30; ma erano partiti alle ore 3,00. Nel frattempo nasce una nuova generazione e fermenta. Nel 1909 a Verrès era nato Amilcare Crétier, un alpinista tanto forte quanto estroso, ancora impreganto della Filosofia di Nietzsche e dallo Sturm und Drang che la figura di Guido Lammer emanava ed elargiva. Così, quasi in contraddizione, nell'ouverture del suo "Diario Alpinistico 1921-1933: Imitor Epicuri non credo alium mundum nisi istum esse unde In ista brevi vita omnibus madis excellere studeo, quia aliam megliorem NON SPERO". Con lui tutta una schiera di giovani alpinisti come Lino Binel, Renato e Remo Chabod, Alessandro "Dino", Jean ed Emile Charrey, Cino Norat, Marino Guglielminotti che appoggiandosi allo zio Michele Baratono, Colonnello degli Alpini ed ascoltando il Nume Tutelare" Abbé Henry, andrà all'assalto delle ancora vergini Pareti Nord ed Est dell'Emilius. Dopo le due salite alla prima nel 1926 (Binel-Chabod-Crétier) e nel 1927 (Binel-Crétier) sarà falcidiata dalle disgrazie sulla Parete Est del 25 Agosto del 1929 e del Dente del Gigante nella Estate del 1932. La vittoria sulla Est di Giusto Gervasutti e Renato Chabod il 26 di Giugno 1935 allontanerà, parzialmente, questi spettri ma lascerà sempre aperta una profonda ferita nella Storia dello Alpinismo della Valle di Aosta e dell'Emilius. In tempo di guerra una bella prima salita invernale da parte del Triestino Nerino Gobbo nell'inverno 1940/41, due vie di Adolfo "Dulo" Ourlaz con il Tenente degli Alpini Emanuele Tosana ed una traversata Est/Ovest, completa nel Bacino dell'Arpisson, del primo con la moglie Aurora Wuillerminaz, poi vittima dei Nazisti, oltre ad una via nel canale Centrale del Dottor "Ansel" Falcoz con il Musicologo di Torino Massimo Mila chiudon quest'epoca in bilico tra le due Guerre Mondiali. Al termine della medesima, la prima ripetizione della Est dei due giovani Pietro "Piero" Rosset e Franco Garda nell'Estate del 1946 e la prima invernale dei medesimi, ormai diventati Guide Alpine, sulla Cresta dei "Tre Curati" aprono verso orizzonti più moderni e futuri nella storia di questa montagna.
Anzi ricordo come, mentre l'08 di Luglio 1984 risalivo da solo lo stretto canalino della Parete Sud con 'na splendida ascensione su neve dura e ben trasformata, dal lato opposto sulla Cresta dei "Tre cappuccini" il Parroco di Sant'Orso, Don Careggio, che saliva con un gruppo di ragazzi, m'apostrofasse redarguendomi decisamente ed invitandomi a traversare da loro ond'evitar ulteriori pericoli. Faceva il suo dovere di Cristiano ed io, ridendo sotto ai baffi, continuavo imperterrito la scalata. Fu l'ultimo Prete che vidi salire all'Emilius e non era più in linea coi suoi "avventurosi" predecessori. Con lui, forse, scomparvero per sempre Preti, Parroci, Abati, Curati, Reverendi ed eccetera etcetera da sta montagna sì clericale ...
The MOUNTAIN of the ABBOTS
Is to define the Emilius Mountain a clerical mountain good thing and correct since, putting aside from the first one (?) Absolute ascension happened in 1823, on each of the four existing crests the Priests or Abbots that is wanted to say have left for the eternity their mark and seal. From that of the Three Capuchins where with the ascension in the 1839 of the young girl Emilia Argentier the name of the mountain became from Peak of the 11 Hours to the nominative in top today; an ascension conceived with relative and subsequent dedication by the Canonical Naturalist Georges Carrel. Then in 1902 it was the time of the Crest West-northwest departing from the hill (subsequently Pass Carrel) among the Becca of Nona and the Mont Ross de Comboé, great Western Shoulder of the Emilius; always in that exploratory season of the Abbé Joseph Maria Henry, accompanied by it “Guide to mule” of Charvensod Grégoire Comé, after the slope of the Western Buttress, the descent happens and gone up again, for the first time, of the East Crest or of Brissogne, that goes down toward the Long Lake of the Laures. But in 1906 the three Parish priests Bonin, Bovet and Henry overcome themselves and, together with the Engineer of Saint Marcel Nino Tofani, win the splendid Edge North-northeast, sets to horse among the East Wall and the Triangle Black-Wall North of the Emilius. A great exploit that will do him that this steep crest, suspended among steep precipice walls, brings forever their name, being definitely consecrate by now as
1905/6 (in winter): Idealization try ascent NE Ridge and N Edge; (Abbot of Saint Pierre Joseph Maria Henry and Reverend of Roisan Jean Bonin).
1906 (July th?): East Arête First replay and First solo, in ascent; (Engineer Nino Tofani; from Les Laures Hunting House).
1906 (August 02th): NE Ridge and North Edge (of "Three Curates") First of ridge; (Abbots Louis Bonin, Pantaléon Bovet, Maria Joseph Henry and Engineer Nino Tofani; from Grand Brissogne, Les Laures's Alp, Peckoz Pass, Tête and Blantsette Pass).
... "FIRST ASCENSION OF THE EMILIUS MOUNTAIN (M. 3559) "for the North-north-east Crest... Of the Emilius, the beautiful mountain that dominates Aosta, remained of absolutely unexplored the East wall and the North-north-east crest... Do I owe to it introduces my companions? I don't believe it necessary: it will be enough to remember that Henry is the capable student of the alpine flora and the tenacious mountain climber explorer of the Emilius; that Bovet, priest of Doues, is the hunter of chamoises from the steel muscles, classical" grimpeur" well known to who has been climbed to Bionaz in Valpellina some years ago, when he there was priest hospitable, and pleasant companion to the Wherry, to the Topham to the Canzio, Vigna and Mondini (Boll. CAI", Vol. XXX°), and that Bonin of Roisan is that colossus that in the first his ascension he has simply found way of following the prof. Grasselli and the Rev. Ratti in Milan to the Mount Blanc ... And' natural later this, that I didn't feel, new sebben, the need of "others" guides...."
Edit. C.A.I. - Montthly Magazine 1907.
"Clerically" More in DetailClerical Mountains & Routes
... "PRIMA ASCENSIONE DEL MONTE EMILIUS (m. 3559) " PER LA CRESTA NORD-NORD-EST ... Dell'Emilius, la bella montagna che domina Aosta, rimanevano di assolutamente inesplorate la parete Est e la cresta Nord-Nord-Est...Debbo presentare i miei compagni? Non lo credo necessario: basterà ricordare che Henry é il valente cultore della flora alpina e il tenace alpinista esploratore dell'Emilius; che Bovet, parroco di Doues, è il cacciatore di camosci dai muscoli d'acciaio, classico "grimpeur" ben noto a chi é salito a Bionaz in Valpellina qualche anno fa, quando egli vi era parroco ospitale, e piacevolissimo compagno ai Wherry, ai Topham ai Canzio, Vigna e Mondini (Boll. CAI, vol. XXX°), e che Bonin di Roisan é quel colosso che nella primissima sua ascensione ha trovato semplicemente modo di di seguire il prof. Grasselli e il Rev. Ratti di Milano al Monte Bianco...E' naturale dopo ciò, che io non sentissi, sebben novellino, il bisogno di "altre" guide ...".
Da "33 ROUTES OF MONTE EMILIUS (3559m)" sempre in SP, Sezioni n° 6/9/10 oppure PARTI B, E ed F:
Of perfect lines crown and they frame the four homologous walls, among which the East one above Les Laures and the Northerly on the Arpisson with a severe and wild aspect. On all the watersheds he breathes a clerical air that postpones to ancient excursions and scramble and nobody can be considered banal (* in the last ten years three misfortunes and all have happened in come down by the mountain: two on the Crest of the Three Capuchins or by Normal and one on the West Crest or, currently, "Via Ferrata"; to add him to the misfortune on the East Wall of the '29 for a total of six fallen, that this reason and motive to understand that it deals with a mountain not to underestimate); the exploration of the Emilius postpones to these Priests and Abbots Mountaineers and Climbers, brave and determined to know and to make to know, also with articles and exhaustive and very attractive publications, this splendid mountain, that from the tall one of 3000 meters it towers on the ancient Suburb of Aosta. From his Peak the whole Central Valley of the River Dora Baltea is dominated, that from here it unrolls him as to silvered ribbon and shining, on the axle West-East, while to North the sight spaces The pours the Earth of Switzerland in an arc that goes from the decreasing Chain of the Mont Blanc to the mighty Combins and the wide Rosa Mountain, with its great glaciers. Everywhere they ogle Bell Towers of Churches, Sanctuaries and Chapels Votive, to testimony of the Great Christian Faith of the Ancient Inhabitants of the Valley of Aosta expanded after the Era of the "Salasses" (= Ancient Celtic People) and after the Epic of the Romans (* * the ancient town name of Aosta in fact it was "August Praetoria Salassorum").
On the Top the Scouts, in 1959, set a Cross in iron and a small Madonna in wood, now, and since the August 1995, replaced by one in metal with modern design. Anywhere, climbing to the Peak, he breathes that clerical and sober air that this Mountain makes Sacred, while the Spirit of our Abbots flutters in the contrast between the reddish rock of ridges and faces and the very blue sky. Rather, if you will know "to see more in there", the Abbots will appear you on their Edge, the Abbé Henry and Grégoire on and down for the East Crests and West and, more distant in the Time and in the Space, the first mountaineers above for the Capuchins also South-southeast Crest currently and for a long time By Standard for the mountain, at least for those people who originate from Aosta, street Pila, or from Cogne-Gimillan through The Necks of Laures or Garin, while the inhabitants of the Grand Brissogne have a preference for their autonomous route transiting from the Walloon of the Laures and through the East Crest, if not by the Edge N-NE “of the Three Curates”.
Tutte e quattro le creste dell'Emilius hanno qualcosa di regale e magico, compreso il lungo Contrafforte Sudovest che, traendo origine appena sopra il Rifugio del Lago di Arbolle, attraversa da Meridione a Settentrione separando i Valloni di Comboè con quello di Arbolle/Lago Gelato per innestarsi al Mont Ròss de Comboé con la Cresta Ovest, proveniente dal Colle Carrel e diretta alla Vetta massima. Di linee perfette coronano ed incorniciano le quattro omologhe pareti, tra le quali la Est sopra Les Laures e la Nord sull'Arpisson posseggono un aspetto severo e selvaggio. Su tutte le creste si respira un'aria clericale, che rimanda ad antiche escursioni e scalate e nessuna può essere considerata banale (* negli ultimi dieci anni sono avvenute tre disgrazie e tutte in discesa dal monte: due sulla Cresta dei Tre Cappuccini o Via Normale ed una sulla Cresta Ovest o, attualmente, Via Ferrata; da aggiungersi alla disgrazia sulla Parete Est del '29 per un totale di sei caduti, che fà comprendere che si tratta di una montagna da non sottovalutare); l'esplorazione dell'Emilius rimanda a questi Preti ed Abati Alpinisti ed Arrampicatori, coraggiosi e determinati a conoscere ed a fare conoscere, anche con articoli e pubblicazioni esaurienti e molto attraenti, questa splendida montagna, che dall'alto di 3000 metri troneggia sull'antico Borgo di Aosta. Dalla sua Vetta si domina tutta la Valle Centrale del Fiume Dora Baltea, che da qui si srotola siccome nastro agentato e lucente, sull'asse Occidente-Oriente, mentre a Settentrione la vista spazia verso la Terra di Svizzera in un arco che va dalla decrescente Catena del Monte Bianco ai possenti Combins ed all'esteso Monte Rosa con i suoi grandi ghiacciai. Dappertutto occhieggiano Campanili di Chiese, Santuari e Cappelle Votive, a testimonianza della Grande Fede Cristiana degli Antichi Abitanti della Valle d'Aosta espansa dopo l'Era dei Salassi e dopo l'Epopea dei Romani (** l'antico nome della Città di Aosta infatti era "Augusta Praetoria Salassorum"); sulla Cima, nel 1959, gli Scouts posero una Croce in ferro ed una Madonnina in legno, ora sostituita, dall'Agosto del 1995, con una in metallo con design moderno.
And again you'll see in a moment that escapes overcoming the barriers of Space and Time, in one scene, almost a surreal Dream / Ed ancor vedrete, in un'attimo che sfugge superando le barriere dello Spazio e del Tempo, in una scena, quasi un Sogno surreale:
the APPARITION of the tiny Emilie accompanied by the Canonical Carrel and the photographic camera with tripod by the Reverend Bionaz that rolls down for the crags and the precipices ...
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