So you had the new guy Prussik up a 5.2 at night, rather than climb it on top rope.....due to possible pendulum? I fail to see how a prussik ascent is easier on the gear than simply climbing it.....you have to pull the gear to get past it in either case, so once he pulled the last piece that kept him from swinging if he fell...he would most CERTAINLY have fallen since all of his weight is on the rope already. Something isn't adding up. You had to be off route? I've been in that ally but can't seem to picture where you were.
So he ascended where the rope ended after the gear pulled, which was vertical from the anchor. Gottcha. For some reason I thought you had replaced the bottom pieces and I was trying to figure out how he was going to ascend on prussic, unclip the piece, and keep from swinging. You can understand that confusion. :)
Because of the buzz from this TR I was referred to a web posting by Mark "Indy" Kochte who led the rescue of a climber who fell on the NDA route and eventually died from his injuries. See Seneca Rescue This link is posted with Mark's permission. It recounts that the climber fell from the same spot as I did while on lead and the only cam placement pulled causing a ground fall.
WyomingSummits - Oct 6, 2013 10:22 pm - Hasn't voted
ConfusedSo you had the new guy Prussik up a 5.2 at night, rather than climb it on top rope.....due to possible pendulum? I fail to see how a prussik ascent is easier on the gear than simply climbing it.....you have to pull the gear to get past it in either case, so once he pulled the last piece that kept him from swinging if he fell...he would most CERTAINLY have fallen since all of his weight is on the rope already. Something isn't adding up. You had to be off route? I've been in that ally but can't seem to picture where you were.
WyomingSummits - Oct 8, 2013 7:30 pm - Hasn't voted
Ok.So he ascended where the rope ended after the gear pulled, which was vertical from the anchor. Gottcha. For some reason I thought you had replaced the bottom pieces and I was trying to figure out how he was going to ascend on prussic, unclip the piece, and keep from swinging. You can understand that confusion. :)
JRB - Oct 9, 2013 12:40 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Ok.Yeah. I changed the TR to try and make this more clear. Thanks for your comment and sorry for the confusion.
JRB - Oct 9, 2013 12:46 pm - Hasn't voted
Climber death on NDA in 2000Because of the buzz from this TR I was referred to a web posting by Mark "Indy" Kochte who led the rescue of a climber who fell on the NDA route and eventually died from his injuries. See Seneca Rescue This link is posted with Mark's permission. It recounts that the climber fell from the same spot as I did while on lead and the only cam placement pulled causing a ground fall.