Intro

In SPv1 there was a thread which I started about the German (Bergsteiger Magazine) system of grading hiking routes. Some members started to use it, as it is clear, simple and systematic. It states that any hiking or scrambling tour can be rated by four relatively distinct aspects:

1. Effort.
2. Power.
3. Psyche.
4. Orientation.

The Grading System

For all mountain routes (hiking, scrambling), which are easier than climbs of difficulty UIAA III (or AD), either marked or not marked, I am recommending the following description standard:

0. General data:
- Start altitude
- Summit (end) altitude
- Prevailing exposition (S, N, E, W, SE, SW, NW, NW)
- Type: rock, snow, etc. (for example: 1 h through woods and grassy slopes, 3h rock, 3h snow/ice)
- Protection: is the route marked or not, protected or not
- Gear & remark: any further description, i.e.: types of danger, gear, water, etc.

1. Effort (ascent) means physical load, endurance. It depends primarily on altitude difference, but not exclusively (you can have distance to overcome or ups and downs). Absolute altitude is also important (500m from 1000m to 1500m are not the same as from 4000m to 4500m).

Measures: elevation, time (I think this is better than a scale from 1 to 5.)

2. Power means physical ability to overcome the hardest details of the route. It depends of the amount of hardest difficulties. Short routes can demand little overall effort (#1), but can be very hard, with great difficulties, requiring power. If the route is protected (ferratas, equipped with pegs, hooks, steel ropes), this lowers the difficulties of hardest details.

Measure:
1 – no difficulties: only walking, even if steep.
2 – easy: steep steps, some pulling with hands, snow up to 40 deg.
3 – medium: easy climbing (I), medium hard ferrattas, snow up to 45 deg.
4 – hard: easy climbing (II), hard ferrattas, snow up to 50 deg.
5 – very hard: harder climbing details (>II), very hard ferrattas, snow >50 deg.

3. Psyche means how much the route is exposed, how much depth tolerance it requires, how objectively dangerous it is. Is belaying needed and can it be effective?

Measure:
1 – no difficulties: you could go 'blind' (path or road is easy, broad)
2 – easy: some care needed, you already feel depth
3 – medium: depth rising, but in normal conditions belaying not needed
4 – hard: exposed, mistake very likely fatal, belaying recommended
5 – very hard: belay properly! Even though, objective danger exists

4. Orientation means how hard it is to find the route course, providing the visibility is good. If there's no path or on glaciers, fog almost automatically means degree 5.

Measure:
1 – no difficulties: road, good path or a weaker one, but marked good
2 – easy: some care needed, still good trail, or if marked, some care is needed
3 – medium: poorly marked or very weak trail; consider general situation (terrain)
4 – hard: constant orientation skill needed, don't go in fog, use compass & GPS
5 – very hard: hard job even with orientation devices, expert escort recommended

We could also use the overall scale – the 4 criteria combined: 1 – very easy, 2 – easy, 3 – medium, 4 – hard, 5 – very hard.

Example

Tofana di Rozes, Ferrata Lipella: Overall: hard (big elevation, considerably hard and exposed).

0. General: 2083m to 3225m, exposition W, marked, protected rock route. Battery mandatory!
1. Effort: 1200m, 5h
2. Power: 4 – hard,
3. Psyche: 4 – hard,
4. Orientation: 1 – no difficulties.