North Cascades > Forbidden Peak > Climber's LogForbidden Peak Climber's Log
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| jasonconnell | West Ridge  Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2007 | |
| Great climb on great rock! Hiked into Boston Basin Friday night, climbed Forbidden Saturday and camped in the Basin again, Sunday Climbed Sahale and descended via Sahale Arm. | |
| Posted Jul 12, 2007 5:48 pm | ||
| Pantilat | West Ridge and East ledges | |
| West Ridge (2005) and East ledges (2006) in 2.5 hours from car to summit | |
| Posted Jun 20, 2007 2:22 am | ||
| Casey Bates | Epic day. Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2006 | |
| This climb is the single reason I am now motivated to learn how to lead trad; I could not switch leads with my partner and he was beat. We got off route in the gully and could not finish ascent. Witnessed sunrise and sunset from the glacier below the couloir. Huge rock calved off in basin below our rappel. | |
| Posted Oct 10, 2006 11:12 pm | ||
| Outdoorpartner | Rained out Date Climbed: Jun 6, 2006 | |
| Waited around at base camp for a weather window, but it was still too wet. I recommend waiting until at least July to try climbing this mountain. | |
| Posted Oct 5, 2006 5:29 am | ||
| Steve Larson | Torment-Forbidden traverse Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2006 | |
| Did the West Ridge as part of the Torment-Forbidden traverse w/ dug. Stunning views, lots of fun and lots of smoke from the fires in E. Washington. | |
| Posted Aug 29, 2006 11:34 pm | ||
| thundercloud | West Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2006 | |
| Climbed with the clucksters, but who is the real climbing chicken? Enjoyed the WR rock a ton! Gully not great either way. First 1.5 miles of approach were a chore, but not bad afterwards. Set up bivy in the woods prior to park boundary, as we couldn't get a Boston Basion permit...permits full, but didn't seem to be that many folks up there. Beware of the viscious attacking marmots. | |
| Posted Aug 16, 2006 4:19 pm | ||
| Aaron Dyer | West Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2006 | |
| We also had trouble descending the west ridge snow gully. Could have used 2 ropes or another descent. | |
| Posted Aug 15, 2006 3:12 pm | ||
| cluck | West Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 15, 2006 | |
| Snow in the coulior was mostly melted so we opted for the 2nd gully to the left which Becky describes as 4th class down low and grassy 3rd class above. Description was correct but fails to mention that the gulley is loose and offers little protection. In my opinion, this gully was the emotional crux of the route. Climbed the ridge and only met one other party (who was doing the Torment-Forbidden traverse). Downclimbing back to the notch took as long as going up. Raps in the gully were problematic and wasted some time freeing stuck ropes. Nice to have 2 X 60M which got us to the snow. What I've learned from this trip? If you do Forbidden West ridge, go earlier in the season so you can climb snow in the couloir. | |
| Posted Aug 14, 2006 10:26 pm | ||
| Oznid | Route Climbed: East Ridge Direct Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2006 | |
| This route is harder, more exposed than the west ridge. Of course, it's lots of fun. Great views of the Boston Glacier. Watch out for rope drag! | |
| Posted Jul 29, 2006 2:36 am | ||
| Oznid | West Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2005 | |
| Did this as part of the traverse. The west ridge is great - an easy romp on great rock with out-of-control views! | |
| Posted Jul 29, 2006 2:33 am | ||
| setrent | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August 2001 | |
| The couloir is the crux of this route. Steep snow and a moat, or loose unprotectable fourth class rock are your options. Once on the ridge, the cimbing is moderate, and the views are outstanding. Well worth the trouble to get there. Downclimbed the entire route as well as the couloir. Climbed the East Ridge on 07-12-08. This is a much better route than the West Ridge. An easy approach, better climbing, and a straight forward descent make it a pleasurable outing. | ||
| Posted Dec 23, 2005 2:01 am | ||
| marcminish | Route Climbed: East Ridge Direct Date Climbed: September 8, 2005 | |
| The approach was a long tedious talus field. We did not have to cross a glacier except for a small ten foot section. We did not use our crampons. The technical parts of the route were fun but the descent was a nightmare. If I had it over, I would definitely pick a different climb because the good parts did not justify the long approach and dangerous descent. Climbed with fellow SPer Paul Ivaska. | |
| Posted Sep 20, 2005 10:17 am | ||
| breadbox | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July 2003 | |
| With Ramoo, Spliff, and Melon. Yeehaw! I had lucid nightmares after this one. Wish I'd brought rock shoes... | |
| Posted Aug 31, 2005 3:27 pm | ||
| DeeDee | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July 31, 2004 | |
| Sublime! | |
| Posted Jul 26, 2005 10:01 pm | ||
| Alpine Eric | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August, 10, 1999 | |
| What a fun ridge route. We simul-climbed most of the 4th class. The couloir was a little hairy so late in the season. 1 very experienced climber / guide in another party fell in the coluoir that day. All in all a great day and what a great peak with solid Cascade Granite. | ||
| Posted Apr 29, 2005 4:10 pm | ||
| Dan Winter | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: 6/24/04-6/25/04 | |
| Simu-climbed the route except short steep section protected by old piton. | |
| Posted Mar 18, 2005 3:20 pm | ||
| Zeke | Route Climbed: W. Ridge Date Climbed: July 6, 2004 | |
| After a good climb, up and over Sahale, we made camp and hoped for an early go at the west ridge. woke at 4am and were completly socked in. Tried again at 5am, 6am, with no chance of the weather clearing. Packed up camp and headed out to the car and a cold beer. Didnt even see the peak, next time... | |
| Posted Aug 26, 2004 10:44 pm | ||
| Derek Franzen | Route Climbed: East Ridge Direct & West Ridge Date Climbed: June 21 1980 & June 23 1996 | |
| 1st trip with E Sandbo, L Rasmussen. Hiked in and made camp. Made uneventful climb of E Ridge Direct. Downclimbed most of W Ridge in twilight. Downclimbed couloir in dark. Got down glacier and then headed for camp, some moonlight helped but all the ridges looked the same. Eric and Larry swore camp was down one ridge, I continued 5 min to next ridge and found camp, 11pm. Climbed in sleeping bag and fell asleep. After midnight I heard voices outside tent when buddies arrived at camp after climbing back up correct ridge from bottom of basin. 2nd Trip with E Sandbo (W Ridge). | |
| Posted Aug 15, 2004 12:33 am | ||
| jtschanz | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July 31, 2004 | |
| As Haydar mentioned below, this was a long day climb. If you can simulclimb the route and pass other parties along the way, this is definitely doable in a day. Otherwise it would be more comfortable and enjoyable to do it from a camp in upper Boston Basin. The great rock and incredible views were offset only by the nagging stress about summitting in time to finish the descent before dark. It turns out that our decision to turn around at the false summit (several vertical feet and a half-pitch below the true summit) was a good one as the descent took almost as long as the ascent and we barely made it back to the basin before dark. | |
| Posted Aug 4, 2004 12:25 pm | ||
| hkutuk | Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: July 31, 2004 | |
| David, Dee and Jim climbed it as a day cimb which turned out to be a 19 hour epic. Started at 4:30 in the morning and struggled through the humid jungle low below. We run into low clouds when we got to Boston Basin. As the sun rose the clouds lifted and a very impressive alpine setting fomed around us. Roped up for the short glacier crossing, the snow gully was about to melt out and indeed half way through it a vertical section had formed because of melting so we had to climb the sandy rock on the left. But there was a traffic jam in the gully and rocks kicked from climbers higher up made for a nervous hour as we waited our turn in the shooting alley. Once on the ridge the climbing was fun and quite exposed at places. Made it to the false summit at 3pm and opted not to do the last pitch to the summit due to time concerns. The descent indeed was long and stressful, we did a series of down climbs and rappels all the way to the glacier as the sun was setting. Made it back to the trail head at 11pm. Very impressive mountain in a great setting, to enjoy it more, a two day trip would have been better though. | |
| Posted Aug 3, 2004 4:40 pm | ||
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